Ricky@Race-Tech
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Hello Guys, Sorry we don't use the forums now, we are just too busy. If anybody has an issue please contact us on, Ricky@race-tech.net I sent the OP a message by PM but didn't get a responce. If anybody has an issue with any of our products please contact me via the website, above email or usual phone number. Regards Ricky
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Hello Guys, Sorry we don't use the forums now, we are just too busy. If anybody has an issue please contact us on, Ricky@race-tech.net I have spoken with the OP today on the phone, and he is coming to collect his parts this week, or we will post them out if he cannot make it. If anybody has an issue with any of our products please contact me via the website, above email or usual phone number. Regards Ricky
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tools needed for ct9 rebuild?
Ricky@Race-Tech replied to turbominicooper's topic in Intake, Turbo & Exhaust
The main tool you need is a balancing machine. Without this it simply cannot last, you wouldn't drive with unbalanced wheels so why drive with such a vital component like the turbo out of balance. we can balance it should you require. But our labor charge on the rest is small anyway. -
Looking good again Mike.
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Where the Heck, have you been!?
Ricky@Race-Tech replied to Socks's topic in News & General Announcements
They send a test signal down to the (joints/boosters) and measure the time it takes to get a response. IIRC, I asked a mate who does it a few years back. -
Sock's '2ZZ-GE Turbo' Glanza V
Ricky@Race-Tech replied to Socks's topic in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs
We have 1 set of the shelf and 2-3 days would be needed to make another set up. PM me for info/price as to not mess Matts thread up. As above. -
If the emanage was mapped on bigger injectors it would be leaner.
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Get the map checked/it mapped ASAP. It might be running rich at idle but lean on boost. Regards Ricky
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We have a jig for the press that supports the piston completely. We charge £10 per pin plus postage. Regards Ricky
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Sock's '2ZZ-GE Turbo' Glanza V
Ricky@Race-Tech replied to Socks's topic in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs
To say the rest of the plugs look perfect I have taken into account everything you mentioned, we didn't get a true "plug chop" as Matt had run the car for a while after the issue. But the plugs if anything looked a little on the cold side. Matt was present, and gave the bores a quick "wipe" to remove any coolant drips fairly early, I'd have rather it been completely left untouched for pictures but never mind. We have inspected the rest of the head. Valve stem seals look great for the amount of time the engine has been built. Guides are still in good shape (and bad ones were replace -
Sock's '2ZZ-GE Turbo' Glanza V
Ricky@Race-Tech replied to Socks's topic in EP91 Glanza Progress Blogs
They were NGK, We have used 100's without issues on various cars. They were heat range 8. The ceramic failed on 1 plug, the rest look perfect. I have spoken at length with Matt about plug choice. At the end of the day this is a street car, that we have pushed further than any other. Without doubt, when on full boost a heat range 9 would be a better options. But this is certainly going to have its drawbacks as you have correctly pointed out at the end of your reply. High EGT's and spark plug failures don't really go hand in hand. Generally high EGT's would be further from kn -
We use twinscroll as often as possible. Not many people with starlets want to try it. It'd certainly be very good though. We would make a kit, but sadly I doubt it would sell. We have done it once in the past, but the owner has never completed the build I don't think. As it stands our 400hp kit spools around 1000rpm's better than anything else we have tested.
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You could have had the previous version much earlier as I emailed. Its only because we upgraded you to what was probably the third gen. Sorry to hear you haven't fitted it yet. But don't worry, all our turbo's have a warranty. How is the kit doing? What outlet port on the turbo? We are working towards being able to stock all of our turbo kits etc. We have stock of a few kits now to reduce lead times. However custom kits take time to make up, and we are generally very busy.
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When collecting the car we had the boot open and went through the parts in it? It looks like rusty rain water in the boot from the pictures. Oil floats ontop of water, the 2 don't mix. It looks like your pliers are whats caused the rust, and the water looks to have been there a while. Remember, when the car came to us, it had absolutely no coolant at all in it. So the rad was completely empty. It certainly wouldn't have put what looks like a litre of water in your boot?
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I've just had a look at the first pictures. You are aware that the seals on your boot leak, and the water isn't from the radiator or anything we/you put in there to take home. If you leave the car out in the rain for any length of time it fills with water. Out of interest when did you take the picture? I'll call/text you when I'm at work.