jackkelly Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 genuine toyota, the rest look like shit there doesnt even seam to be a fire ring on them JE scrap yokes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikhilkamdar12 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Another thing TD sells is there fuel pumps at x4 times the price there worth, there China pumps i used a few times with no problems do, the happen to come identical box and all as TD sells them. I found this also! I bought a RRFPR thinking they are some decent brand, gave it a quick eBay search or just google it and the same one appeared for £15! And I paid around £60 for it! Hmmm Mine just came in a plain white box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 When should you be thinking about going MLS instead of OEM? hey TimD...i can't exactly say there is a set point at which you would need a mls gasket.... its best to determine that with your engine builder and the ultimate intent of the engine/car. but for the average road going ct9/tfo35/td04/gt28/vf,td05 project that many of the members seem to go for,,,then i'd say toyota/oem h'gasket will suffice...it may even work for the odd track day, drag racing, etc http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/87831-brand-new-genuine-headgasket/?hl=headgasket http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-STARLET-1-3-GT-TURBO-GLANZA-V-HEADGASKET-HEAD-GASKET-OEM-GENUINE-/140835231078?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota&hash=item20ca6f1566:g:ivAAAOxyVLNS6osN since i can't post pics, those are supposed to be genuine h/gaskets...i like the idea that toyota reinforced the cylinder area and some other pathways with metal rings,, as well, since it is a composite gasket, it gives a little leeway in terms of head/block faltness/straightness tolerances and doesn't exactly need any special coatings to help seal...in general i think toyota built a pretty decent stock 4efte h/gasket now if you are going all out...as in a dedicated track, drag, hill climb, etc type car and going for maximum power output each and every single time, then maybe mls may offer more reliability??!!----even then i'm not sure...and if going this route, then please make sure to do it properly and get all the head/block decks done by a reliable machine shop...and make sure to get a proper mls gasket from a reputable seller i believe they both have their place, but for the average project, the stock unit is usually fine power wise, i cant give you any kind of numbers...as over the years i've seen persons run up to 300/400bhp with stock genuine h/gaskets...while some have installed mls h/gaskets with 200bhp....so its really no specific point....its a big gray area like the stock engine vs forge or stock ignition vs COP or stock head bolts vs ARP or stock bearings vs aftermatket or etc...lolol. and just to clarify i have nothing against mls gaskets and using them---well good quality ones anyways Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 This route I have allways followed, and other gaskets too. Never failed with oem headgaskets and allways used VHT copper gasket paint too for extra sealing. Long time ago blowed few 4E/5E fte engines with aftermarket cheap mass headgasket and one time with custom made 2mm copper gasket. Next engines comes with oem Toyota gaskets and gona split multilayer if needed to get proper under 1mm squishing area... i tend to learn from other people's mistakes...and i've been involved with starlets since 1999,,,i've followed uk, american, australian, caribbean, etc websites on these cars...i've done tonnes of research...i literally had folders and harddrives filled with information i'm a fan for genuine toyota parts for the 4e/5e engines...they have proven to be reliable in the average and even some above average projects Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Interesting, thanks for taking the time to reply. I don't know what route to go down, or whether or stay standard rods and pistons or whilst it's already in bits go forged. The car is a track car, it is never driven on the road, not even to and from events. Once rebuilt it'll have a TF035 turbo fitted, and will run relatively low boost of around 15 psi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Stay standard if you only want to run 1 bar a good map and refreshed engine will be sweet. Just get it all balanced with flywheel and pulley on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Interesting, thanks for taking the time to reply.I don't know what route to go down, or whether or stay standard rods and pistons or whilst it's already in bits go forged.The car is a track car, it is never driven on the road, not even to and from events.Once rebuilt it'll have a TF035 turbo fitted, and will run relatively low boost of around 15 psi. im running upto 17 psi on my gen1 blockn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 (edited) Gasket is not "always" the issue. Think of how the head is clamped down...If the head is not clamped down sufficiently, you're going to get blow by past the gasket creating a pocket of increased pressure between the head and the block, then the obvious question, what's going to blow first? The head? The block? Or the gasket? Edited August 11, 2016 by AdamB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Fully understood but that is not the case here. Engine was running again 2 hours after the head was removed.The only difference is an actual athena gasket used this time. And it has just completed a 160 mile journey with no issues vs the 10 mile and few hours on the last gasket Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Mine was properly torqued and everything and still blew running an OEM gasket now sweet will never use msl again even on an forged engine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdamB Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 You will always get a small amount of leakage, that's just the nature of it. Some gaskets are more "forgiving" than others, but the truth is all gaskets are shit, it's just easier and cheaper to replace a gasket than it is to re-groove a block or sleeve a cylinder At least it's up and running, lesson learnt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
starletezy Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Lessons definitely learnt I think OEM is a better option. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Does anybody have picture from OEM 5E gasket and thickness proofs, is the any difference between FE and FHE? Is it same as 4E-FTE gasket, only have noticed three different oem pistons and difference comes there, all uses same basic piston and it's only machined to fit every motor. So does Toyota use same gasket for every motor from n/a 4E-FE>FTE and 5E-F(H)E? It is so long time that can't remember and don't have old gaskets anymore, except copper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Does anybody have picture from OEM 5E gasket and thickness proofs, is the any difference between FE and FHE? Is it same as 4E-FTE gasket, only have noticed three different oem pistons and difference comes there, all uses same basic piston and it's only machined to fit every motor. So does Toyota use same gasket for every motor from n/a 4E-FE>FTE and 5E-F(H)E? It is so long time that can't remember and don't have old gaskets anymore, except copper. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=11115-11071&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on there is reportedly a thinner 0.5/0.8mm head gasket as well---for the DIS 5efe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=11115-11071&mU=on&mE=on&mJ=on&mG=on there is reportedly a thinner 0.5/0.8mm head gasket as well---for the DIS 5efeThanks, this link proofs it. ET196 Caldina also on list, with E-series engine, what a wheapon...So most likely TRD headgasket is same as 5E-FHE Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 here is the 0.3 mm steel gasket only 31 euros going to try it on my block soon , anyone have a link to headstuds conversion kit for our engines https://www.parts2go.de/dichtung-zylinderkopf-multilayer-steel10088400-139 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Fully understood but that is not the case here. Engine was running again 2 hours after the head was removed. The only difference is an actual athena gasket used this time. And it has just completed a 160 mile journey with no issues vs the 10 mile and few hours on the last gasket Still going strong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 here is the 0.3 mm steel gasket only 31 euros going to try it on my block soon , anyone have a link to headstuds conversion kit for our engines https://www.parts2go.de/dichtung-zylinderkopf-multilayer-steel10088400-139Let us know how you get on!HC forged is next on the cards for my car.Idworkz, do the 4age headstud kits, not aware of srarlet specific head studs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Still going strong?Yep 1500 miles done, 4 oil and filter changes. Its now seen full load and 15psi on hybrid ct9. So will probably go for mapping after another 5/600 miles once he gets his new turbo kit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 here is the 0.3 mm steel gasket only 31 euros going to try it on my block soon , anyone have a link to headstuds conversion kit for our engines https://www.parts2go.de/dichtung-zylinderkopf-multilayer-steel10088400-139That is thin, must be one layer Very cheap also, we want pictures when it is in Your hand... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 will do lads hel;p me out here to some stud conversion kit lads cheapest i can get Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MR-2 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 http://m.motonet.fi/fi/varaosat/581/autot/toyota/starlet-1996-1999?vuosimalli=1996&tuoteryhma=155Use old streching ones, that is real budget building Or maybe new aftermarket studkit, 10studs only 15,90 euros in Finland. Should be ok on low budget/boost n/a turbo? Or are You hunting ARB style hard studs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Thanks, this link proofs it. ET196 Caldina also on list, with E-series engine, what a wheapon...So most likely TRD headgasket is same as 5E-FHE trd gasket is reportedly 0.6mm....therefore not the same as the 5efhe gasket Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 http://m.motonet.fi/fi/varaosat/581/autot/toyota/starlet-1996-1999?vuosimalli=1996&tuoteryhma=155Use old streching ones, that is real budget building Or maybe new aftermarket studkit, 10studs only 15,90 euros in Finland. Should be ok on low budget/boost n/a turbo? Or are You hunting ARB style hard studs? my engine has the habit of blowing gaskets between cylinders my heads seen better days im always around 1.1bar tfo35hm and tdo4s weould love solid studs so i can clamp down more force torquing down then i wold ave less chance of gaskets blowing ha ha i cant get my block decked as its my daily Quote Link to post Share on other sites
richardc9052 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Why not get a spare block with a good crank, get that decked and honed. then just rebuild into it. much better than having to wait for it to come back from machining. Plus, you going to have to have the engine out and in a machine shop to convert to studs.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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