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#1 Si@Fiske

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Posted 16 December 2016 - 01:54 PM

Hi All,

 

I thought I would put up a post as somewhere for you all to ask questions when it comes to detailing.

 

I saw that there was a historic post that recently has not been active and without some questions being answered so, as this is what I do, I thought I would post up a topic!  

 

Detailing can be mind boggling, confusing, and hard to know which products do what and when / where to use them!

 

Please feel free to post any queries you may have about Washing / Claying / Polish / Wax & Sealants / Machine Polishing / Paint & clear coat depths /  Decontamination / Swirls / Random Deep Scratches (RDS) / Marring etc. etc.  - you name it I have seen it!

 

I look forward to helping you all!

 

Regards

 

Simon @ Fiske Automotive. 


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#2 tomatoe

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 12:30 PM

Afternoon Simon, 
 
A couple of newbie questions you might be able to help with.
  • What’s a normal detailing routine? 
At the moment, having clayed any car after I’ve bought it, I polish (a basic SRP) and then wax (Collinite 845) twice a year. In between this I just wash as and when. Can / should I polish and/or wax it again?
  • What can I do to improve my paintwork? 
I currently can’t afford to spend hundreds of pounds on a detailer’s services (as much as I’d really like to). What can I do to improve my paintwork beyond a basic polish and wax by hand? 
 
Thanks for your help! 


#3 Irishstarlet

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Posted 20 December 2016 - 09:31 PM

What Are the best products for applying wax and buffing

#4 Bluebear

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Posted 21 December 2016 - 10:48 PM

Hey Si.

My Starlet will be due back from a full respray soon, and obviously, I want to make sure I don't start inadvertently wrecking the paint. I already use a deep bucket with grit guard in the bottom with wash mit for the actual washing, with a foam gun snowfoam before that to drag any loose dirt off.


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#5 Si@Fiske

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Posted 23 December 2016 - 04:41 PM

 

Afternoon Simon, 
 
A couple of newbie questions you might be able to help with.
  • What’s a normal detailing routine? 
At the moment, having clayed any car after I’ve bought it, I polish (a basic SRP) and then wax (Collinite 845) twice a year. In between this I just wash as and when. Can / should I polish and/or wax it again?
  • What can I do to improve my paintwork? 
I currently can’t afford to spend hundreds of pounds on a detailer’s services (as much as I’d really like to). What can I do to improve my paintwork beyond a basic polish and wax by hand? 
 
Thanks for your help! 

 

 

Hi Tomatoe,

 

Thanks for your post!

 

Regarding a normal routine, do you mean in relation to just wash stages or the overall complete detailing process? With regards to what you have done this great, fully wash and decontaminate the car with the likes of a tar and glue remover and fallout remover like IronX just to minimise the ammount of contaminant during claying. After claying I would fully rewash the car dry and cleanse the surface using a surface prep or an IPA prior to polishing. With the SRP I take it you applied by hand? This is indeed the next step however machining does the job properly and evenly and this is where you start to add clarity depth and gloss working up different grades of polish! It is also great to hear you have applied a wax post your polishing stage - almost everyone just uses a product like SRP and then just leaves the car. What this is doing is leaving the paint extremely exposed and completely unprotected!

 

With regards to polishing again - this is dependant upon the upkeep. If you wash the car carefully and correctly very little polishing will ever need to be done again if you removed all scracthes, marring and swirls etc originally. Twice a year is good though, just keep an eye on the beading when wet, this will give a clear and simple indication of how well the wax is lasting! 

 

With regards to improving, removing all marring is a first. The sooner you have done this you can slowly start working up through different grades of polish to create fantastic quality and depth - the other main benefit is that when you are applying a wax or similar you are applying it to a flat surface (unlike when there are scratches present) this will create a much better "wax job" not only in gloss but also longevity of the application. 

 

It sounds like you are doing quite a decent job though and the upkeep is good so I would just say the initial swirl removal is the big thing for you! 

 

Completely understand re costs - it is unfortunately very labour intensive to do the job properly! I hope the above has helped? 

 

Thanks, Simon 

 

What Are the best products for applying wax and buffing

 

Hi Irishstarlet,

 

Get yourself a good quality foam applicator. Always order a couple as if you drop it by mistake then throw it away instantly and use your other new spares! 

 

Something like this is great (although I am not a big Autofinesse fan) as it gives you a good grip for applying : http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1082.html

 

For buffing off, use a high quality mircofibre buffing towel just like this : http://www.cleanyour.../prod_1303.html

 

Hope this helps!

Thanks

Simon 

 

Hey Si.

My Starlet will be due back from a full respray soon, and obviously, I want to make sure I don't start inadvertently wrecking the paint. I already use a deep bucket with grit guard in the bottom with wash mit for the actual washing, with a foam gun snowfoam before that to drag any loose dirt off.

 

Hi Bluebear.

 

Great, looking forward to seeing the pictures! You are 100% along the right lines, just make sure you use 2 buckets - ideally 5 gallon so large volume with a grit guard in the bottom of each one - one for soap and one for clean water to rinse your mit in after it has started to run dry when washing. Then back in the soap and back onto the car. Snowfoam is great so keep that up and jet wash it all off prior to washing, also use a really good quality shampoo and dont skimp on the amount you put in. This acts as a lubricant when washing and the more the better to stop scratching. Follow the guide on the bottle but just test the water with your fingers, it should be almost slippery / slimey when rubbing your fingers together! Apart from that work your way down from top to bottom, always do front bumper before rear as it collects less dirt (especially in this weather) and a good tip is get a second wash mit for the lower sections of the car. this way you dont run the risk of retaining any grit particles from the lower sections in the mit and then scratching the upper sections of the car as a result!

 

Hope this helps also :)

Thanks

Simon  


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E: simon@fiskeautomotive.com | M: +44 7733 949015 | W: fiskeautomotive.com


#6 slo7899

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 01:39 AM

Hi mate.

What would be the best method and product to use to remove the sticky adhesive stuff that is used under the wind deflectors to stick them down.

Cheers.

#7 Si@Fiske

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 07:03 PM

Hi slo7899,

 

I would firstly try using a tar and glue remover ( Dodo juice supernatural tar and glue is decent and not aggressive on the paint / lacquer) 

 

Let it soak in for a minute and then gently take a clean micro fibre to it. If there is too much "material" - some adhesives are almost like a foam/fibre adhesive - use a heat source gently (you can use a hairdryer) to break down the bond and peel away the majority of the adhesive. Once the majority is off then spray the remaining glue with the dodo juice tar and glue remover and that will start to safely loosen and remove the rest! 

 

Hope this helps and further info drop me a pm! 

 

Thanks

Simon 

 

Hi mate.

What would be the best method and product to use to remove the sticky adhesive stuff that is used under the wind deflectors to stick them down.

Cheers.


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E: simon@fiskeautomotive.com | M: +44 7733 949015 | W: fiskeautomotive.com


#8 slo7899

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Posted 11 February 2017 - 01:33 AM

Awesome.

I shall give it a go.

Cheers.

#9 Si@Fiske

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 07:45 PM

No worries! Any questions let me know :)

 

Simon 


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#10 pdg190

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Posted 15 February 2017 - 08:03 PM

Hi Si

My glanza has some pretty rough sun damage where the lacquer has gone cloudy just above the rear quarter windows. Is there anything I can do to at least make it look a little nicer until funds allow a respray? It's 205 black.

Thanks

#11 tomatoe

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 05:35 PM

Evening Si,

I'm looking to give my engine bay a good clean. I've done it before on other cars, giving it a light spray with a hose before etc.

My question is - anything I should pay particular attention to covering up on a Glanza?

Cheers.

#12 akyakapotter

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Posted 16 February 2017 - 05:40 PM

swirl marks form  a car wash got a new daily and its coverd in them bearing in mind ill be doing it by hand.

 

cheers nick.



#13 Si@Fiske

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Posted 17 February 2017 - 11:42 PM

Hi Si

My glanza has some pretty rough sun damage where the lacquer has gone cloudy just above the rear quarter windows. Is there anything I can do to at least make it look a little nicer until funds allow a respray? It's 205 black.

Thanks

 

Hi!

 

Thanks for the post! Its hard to tell without seeing the car. Have you got some pictures which will help? If the lacquer has not "burst" I could likely machine polish it back to life for you removing the oxidation and cutting back the lacquer. Naturally I would need to very carefully measure this prior but it is deffinately a possibility dependant upon condition - saving the expensive of a respray! 

 

Look forward to hearing from you!

Simon 

Evening Si,

I'm looking to give my engine bay a good clean. I've done it before on other cars, giving it a light spray with a hose before etc.

My question is - anything I should pay particular attention to covering up on a Glanza?

Cheers.

 

Evening!!

 

Great idea and as you mentioned it is something you need to be careful with! As a rule of thumb the 2x things you need to consider are 1) electrics 2) intake. 

 

Dependant upon the state of the wiring, cover and protect as much as you can (water / moisture can travel back up within a wire to modules / ecu etc!!) and also cover your air filter to make sure no water enters through this into the intake!

 

Hope this helps!

Simon 

 

swirl marks form  a car wash got a new daily and its coverd in them bearing in mind ill be doing it by hand.

 

cheers nick.

 

Hi Nick,

 

Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news you will find it almost impossible to remove these marks by hand. Especially if it is a german daily with tough clear coat! What you can do by hand it select a glaze suitable to the colour of your car ( I can help with this) apply and remove. What this will do is fill in the swirls and marring and help hide them. What you then need to do is seal the glaze in with a wax or a sealant to help aid longevity to your hard work. Unfortunately this wont rid your swirls or hide them completely but it will help!

 

Hope this helps!

Simon 


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E: simon@fiskeautomotive.com | M: +44 7733 949015 | W: fiskeautomotive.com


#14 akyakapotter

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Posted 18 February 2017 - 08:38 AM

 
Hi!
 
Thanks for the post! Its hard to tell without seeing the car. Have you got some pictures which will help? If the lacquer has not "burst" I could likely machine polish it back to life for you removing the oxidation and cutting back the lacquer. Naturally I would need to very carefully measure this prior but it is deffinately a possibility dependant upon condition - saving the expensive of a respray! 
 
Look forward to hearing from you!
Simon 
 
Evening!!
 
Great idea and as you mentioned it is something you need to be careful with! As a rule of thumb the 2x things you need to consider are 1) electrics 2) intake. 
 
Dependant upon the state of the wiring, cover and protect as much as you can (water / moisture can travel back up within a wire to modules / ecu etc!!) and also cover your air filter to make sure no water enters through this into the intake!
 
Hope this helps!
Simon 
 
 
Hi Nick,
 
Not wanting to be the bearer of bad news you will find it almost impossible to remove these marks by hand. Especially if it is a german daily with tough clear coat! What you can do by hand it select a glaze suitable to the colour of your car ( I can help with this) apply and remove. What this will do is fill in the swirls and marring and help hide them. What you then need to do is seal the glaze in with a wax or a sealant to help aid longevity to your hard work. Unfortunately this wont rid your swirls or hide them completely but it will help!
 
Hope this helps!
Simon 


I knew you were going to say that lol its a blue lexus is200

Cheers nick.

#15 Si@Fiske

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 11:03 PM

I knew you were going to say that lol its a blue lexus is200

Cheers nick.

 

I know sorry!! It would look lovely when sorted though thats for sure. Blues come up amazingly well! Try a glaze and seal that in first! 

 

Let me know if you require any machining work to be done and we can discuss further!

 

Best wishes

Simon 


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#16 tomatoe

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 11:33 AM

Afternoon Simon,

 

I've been trying to clean up my standard Glanza alloys but can't seem to shift some of the grime. I've got a feeling it's baked on brake dust but I'm not sure.

 

I started with shampoo and elbow grease and then moved to poundland's finest wheel cleaner, spraying on, agitating and leaving for a couple of minutes. 

 

Detailing World talks about Tardis, IronX, Bilberry etc and I start to get a bit lost. On a budget, what's going to give me the best bang for my buck / be something I can use for other jobs on the car?  

 

Cheers 



#17 maddox710

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 12:31 PM

Afternoon Simon,
 
I've been trying to clean up my standard Glanza alloys but can't seem to shift some of the grime. I've got a feeling it's baked on brake dust but I'm not sure.
 
I started with shampoo and elbow grease and then moved to poundland's finest wheel cleaner, spraying on, agitating and leaving for a couple of minutes. 
 
Detailing World talks about Tardis, IronX, Bilberry etc and I start to get a bit lost. On a budget, what's going to give me the best bang for my buck / be something I can use for other jobs on the car?  
 
Cheers 

Tbh the standard finish on the stock wheel are poo. You will Struggle to get them right. I'd just wet sand all the face of the wheels down and re spray then yourself

#18 tomatoe

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 02:18 PM

Tbh the standard finish on the stock wheel are poo. You will Struggle to get them right. I'd just wet sand all the face of the wheels down and re spray then yourself

 

Thank you and bugger, this might be a project for another weekend.



#19 ChristopherEP70

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Posted 16 April 2017 - 06:52 PM

Afternoon Simon,
 
I've been trying to clean up my standard Glanza alloys but can't seem to shift some of the grime. I've got a feeling it's baked on brake dust but I'm not sure.
 
I started with shampoo and elbow grease and then moved to poundland's finest wheel cleaner, spraying on, agitating and leaving for a couple of minutes. 
 
Detailing World talks about Tardis, IronX, Bilberry etc and I start to get a bit lost. On a budget, what's going to give me the best bang for my buck / be something I can use for other jobs on the car?  
 
Cheers 


Iron x should shift the brake dust

#20 mart1

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 08:29 AM

Hi,

I'm having a bit of trouble with my red paint work on my fto, I've owned it for 2 months now and it was gleaming red paint work when I first bought the car.
The owner before me had it mopped over at the cost of £400, what's happening is that after me washing the car then using autoglym there's red coming off on to my cloth and now the car is starting to look pink in places, just wondering what might have been used when the car had a professional mop and can I buy the stuff so I can get it looking good again.

#21 ryan lang

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 08:35 AM

got myself a clay bar, whats the best process/order to use it in? 


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#22 maddox710

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 08:56 AM

got myself a clay bar, whats the best process/order to use it in? 

Once you've cleared your car use some warm water to soften the bar up by folding it over and over once you've madeit into a nice flat surface use some water in a spray bottle and spray a section of panel at a time and with the clay bar on its smooth flat surface slide it up and down over the wet surface, you could also use quick detailer as the clay lube if you want to. But remember if you drop the clay bar. It's dead just throw it in the bin because it will trap the grit and dirt.
Once you notice the claybar looks abit dirty that means it's working and pulling the contamination of the paint. Fold the claybar and keep going. Bear in mind once you have done the will leave your cars paint bare with no protection so follow up with some wax/sealant

#23 ryan lang

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 06:15 AM

cheers bud! ill give it a go this weekend

 

Once you've cleared your car use some warm water to soften the bar up by folding it over and over once you've madeit into a nice flat surface use some water in a spray bottle and spray a section of panel at a time and with the clay bar on its smooth flat surface slide it up and down over the wet surface, you could also use quick detailer as the clay lube if you want to. But remember if you drop the clay bar. It's dead just throw it in the bin because it will trap the grit and dirt.
Once you notice the claybar looks abit dirty that means it's working and pulling the contamination of the paint. Fold the claybar and keep going. Bear in mind once you have done the will leave your cars paint bare with no protection so follow up with some wax/sealant


809ebace-87be-46cb-b9e1-72ae53d47e23_zps

 

 

 


#24 Si@Fiske

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 04:25 PM

Hi Ryan,

 

Sorry I havent checked this in a while!! 

 

The above is fine but no all clays can be used with water, some have to be used with a lubricant! Other than that work on a area usually 50cmx50cm and you may need to polish the car afterwards prior to waxing/sealing. I hope you get some good results. 

Regards
Simon 


P.S please PM me with the questions as I get an email notification so I can respond quickly :)


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E: simon@fiskeautomotive.com | M: +44 7733 949015 | W: fiskeautomotive.com





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