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fresh built engine noise diag help - with video PARTLY SOLVED


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just finished a fresh 5e buid after having my car engineless for abour 4 years and sods law theres a problem :|

basically i was looking for a few other opinions on what it could be

i suspect valve noise but cant pinpoint this... ive measured the clearances and although there not perfect surly they shouldn't cause this kinda noise??

0.15mm is inlet shim clearance spec (+.0.03mm) and biggest to smallest is 0.22 and 0.25

0.25 is exhuast spec and biggest to smallest is 0.22 -0.29

so i deffo need a reshim (something i neglected to concider when i lapped the valves)

(need to confrim specs as 5e manual says 0.2 in and 0.3 ex?

or am i missing somthing?

in a nutshell:

forged 5e pauter rods, weisco -10cc pistons

0.5mm headgasket

head and block skimed/decked 0.2mm and 0.4mm

lapped vales, new stem seals

compression ratio should be close to 9:1

i have 195psi bang on compression on all 4 cylnders when hot

note, the 5e came out of a running paseo i owned so i know it was perfect before all the work

EDIT:

after a quick (test) by putting petrolium jelly under each bucket to see how it affected the noise... read further down for more info

hey goldenvtr...i just realised something

the 5e manual says

VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE (1)
Application In. (mm)
Exhaust Valve .............. .012-.016 (.31-.41)
Intake Valve ............... .006-.010 (.15-.25)
(1) - Adjust valve clearance with engine cold.
wouldn't that mean your exhaust side are way out of spec---under the minimum 0.31mm?
while your intake side is bordering on the high side of the range given
maybe someone else can confirm the tolerances
pg 2
YET according to ttgt.com the 4efte manual says
Intake 0.17mm - 0.23mm

Exhaust 0.27mm - 0.33mm

scroll about 3/4 down the page
does anyone have a TOYOTA 4efte manual or access to one that they can confirm the valve clearances?
i always read that the 4efte and 5efhe have the same head, so why would the two sources above have different clearances??
either which way you look at it, some of the shims are out of spec on your engine goldenvtr, as you noted above,,,,but which is the right spec to follow?!?!
seems that sort of clears it up
Edited by gorganl2000
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Hey jus' to confirm the valve clearence is:



Intake 0.20 +/- 0.03mm



Exhaust 0.30 +/- 0.03mm



This is going by the 4EFTE manual.



So when shimming a 5E turbo motor, you use the 4EFTE clearence as more heat from turbo motor.


You want to be on the higher/ looser side, more so on the exhaust.


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Hey jus' to confirm the valve clearence is:

Exhaust 0.30 +/- 0.03mm

This is going by the 4EFTE manual.

So when shimming a 5E turbo motor, you use the 4EFTE clearence as more heat from turbo motor.

You want to be on the higher/ looser side, more so on the exhaust.

but isn't the 5e specs a little looser on the exhaust vs the 4efte specs???

the 5e manual says

VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE (1)

Application In. (mm)

Exhaust Valve .............. .012-.016 (.31-.41)
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O.20 intake and o.36 on the exhaust it says on mine

thanks collin---that seem to be smack in the middle of the 5e manual specs

what engine was originally in your car?---just to make sure

Edited by gorganl2000
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but isn't the 5e specs a little looser on the exhaust vs the 4efte specs???

the 5e manual says

VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE (1)

Application In. (mm)

Exhaust Valve .............. .012-.016 (.31-.41)

I checked the 5E manual, yes, the exhaust side valve clearance for the 5E is bigger/ looser then what's specified for the 4E.

In the 5E manual the valve clearance states:

Exhaust 0.31 - 0.41mm

Intake 0.15 - 0.25mm

I assumed the 5E clearance's would be smaller/ tighter because na motor, but then the 5E camshaft profile lobe is also different compared to 4E?

Well I've always specced to the 4EFTE manual (if not slightly looser, for a higher output motor) and also the same for a 5E turbo motor with full 4EFTE cylinder head and after cold start, cylinder head noise is hardly noticeable and from inside the car, non existent on tick over.

I guess you got to take into account which camshaft is also being used.

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forgot to update this, its all sorted now, reshimed again at 100miles and now done over 1200miles, it still has a minor but random tick on idle but sounds great now




oh and when i reshimed at 100miles i also soaked the cames in brake clean then high pressure air though the oilways to mack sure there was no blockages, then retensioned the inlet cam



i will take a video and post up next time im under the bonnet.



ps,i aimed for intake 0.20 and 0.3 exhaust, my limit was +/- 0.02


Edited by goldenvtr
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glad you got it sorted goldenvtr



can you post up a vid of how it sounds now?



do your forge pistons keep noise/slap on first start?.........does the noise/slap go away completely when to operating temperature or just lessen down?



asking as it seem some people say forged engines are kind of noisy


Edited by gorganl2000
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Happy days ,just realised something in your comment do you have the feeler gauge o.o1 to o.o5 ???? Mine only start at o.05 and builds in 5s upwards so its always somewhere just not 100% precise

mine started fom 0.02 and went up from there, i have few sets now, a halfords professional one and i bought a couple of cheap Chinese ones from ebay, only a few quid each, they do get damaged easily being as i was using the thinest ones so worth buying a couple sets

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-17-Blade-FEELER-GAUGE-0-02mm-1mm-Guage-Measure-/322358204985?epid=630641356&hash=item4b0e0bda39:g:2IwAAOSwd0BVyHcM

Edited by goldenvtr
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glad you got it sorted goldenvtr

can you post up a vid of how it sounds now?

do your forge pistons keep noise/slap on first start?.........does the noise/slap go away completely when to operating temperature or just lessen down?

asking as it seem some people say forged engines are kind of noisy

ill get a video over this weekend.

i do have noticeable piston slap during warmup, but they you cannot tell atall once up to operating temp / 4/5mins of driving...

i dont really think forged pistons not ideal for lots of short journeys from my experience, i also think this also contributes to more regular oil top ups.. i have weiscos. as this build seems to be less "slappy" than my old 5e engine

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