funny onion Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hey everyone, I've been struggling along with this issue for a few weeks now but thought I'd see if anyone on here has any gems of knowledge or pointers, you guys are usually awesome at helping so here goes... My forged 4EFTE EP70 has been running great since being built, love it to bits, but when it gets hot in traffic (as in the fan kicks in) it bogs down and won't accelerate. AFR's are non existent so there's no fuel for some reason. Drives and boosts great otherwise, just when sat in traffic and it's hot. I usually just pull over and let it cool down then it's fine. Pain in the arse though seeing as hull is a carpark at rush hour! I've swapped the ECU temp sensor- no changeChecked all vac lines etc. and no obvious problems (only does it when in traffic and hot, no other idling or starting issues)Coolant system is bled up etc. and behaves as it should- fan kicks in and it doesn't overheat. I think it has to be a sensor relaying something funky to the ECU which is then not fuelling for some reason. Any help or pointers to check appreciated!!! Charlotte Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5T4R7ET N/A Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 This happened to me a few times in summer, car felt very sluggishthen i checked how hot the the intercoooler pipes were getting on the intake side. They were very hot, I couldn't touch them for too longMine were close to the radiator and absorbed the temperature. i used a heat reflective lining which managed to cool the intake temp down and it didnt happen again.Heat management is very important on turbocharged cars. Ive become a bit obsessed with it now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 That's a good shout, thanks for the info, my intercooler pipe is a fag paper away from the rad, I have a load of heat reflective tape so I will try that, Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Following this, even though mine is fine in traffic, I bloody hate the fact everything gets hotter obviously in traffic, sitting there for god knows how long, water temp going up and oil temp going up, and of course oil pressure dropping where oil is getting thinner, Can I ask funny onion when your stuck in heavy traffic for ages what pressure does your oil pressure gauge say please, when it drops of course what it can go down too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Starlet__SR Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 If you're using a 4EFTE, remember there are 3 temp sensors. One fan switch, one for the gauge, and one for the ecu. Which one did you change? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Following this, even though mine is fine in traffic, I bloody hate the fact everything gets hotter obviously in traffic, sitting there for god knows how long, water temp going up and oil temp going up, and of course oil pressure dropping where oil is getting thinner,Can I ask funny onion when your stuck in heavy traffic for ages what pressure does your oil pressure gauge say please, when it drops of course what it can go down too The 70 doesn't have an oil pressure gauge but when I do the same journey in the advance, the oil pressure drops to 1 bar on idle hot in traffic, never goes lower than that. If you're worried about it, maybe you could lift the idle to raise the oil pressure a bit? If you're using a 4EFTE, remember there are 3 temp sensors. One fan switch, one for the gauge, and one for the ecu. Which one did you change? I changed the ECU temp sensor, the fan and gauge work fine so I've not touched those. I had my hopes up that it was the ECU temp sensor at fault, because when I removed the old sensor the plug was wobbly. But it still does it. Another strange thing happened for the first time last night- the throttle seemed to be stuck open when cruising in 5th, I lifted off and it carried on pulling on. Now I have a spare TPS I'm going to try changing that, and maybe even the throttle body itself. I've sprayed it with GT85 etc. and its free and not sticking but maybe the TPS is in need of setting up with feeler gauges? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollieh17 Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 IAT sensor? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Ah good call that one hadn't crossed my mind, I have a few so I will change it, can't hurt to try it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 The 70 doesn't have an oil pressure gauge but when I do the same journey in the advance, the oil pressure drops to 1 bar on idle hot in traffic, never goes lower than that. If you're worried about it, maybe you could lift the idle to raise the oil pressure a bit? That's a good idea thankyou, it very heavy traffic so after about 20/30 mins my oil pressure drops to around 10psi, but would that be the oil we are using I'm not sure as I use 5w 40? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Full Synthetic? I always believed the 5w was the viscosity when cold and the 40 was the viscosity at operating temps. i.e. 5w40 is slightly thinner when cold compared to 10w40. I use 10w40 Semi synth on all mine. My GT warm idles at 1000rpm and the oil pressure is never less than 14PSI. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 id be more inclined to map sensor isseu no ?? test it volts valeus out it might see boost ( small ) combined with dodgy tps as mentioned before i used to have boost isseus when my map sensor was knackerd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Thanks for the reply Colin. It boosts absolutely fine, and idles fine, it sets off ok off the clutch but as soon as you're off the clutch it just won't go. I have a wanted thread up for a map sensor though So if I get one I will definitely try it if nothing else sorts it for sure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 also forgotten to mention check the diagnostics it might have an hidden fault lean/rich etc etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 I'd have to wire and led in to the loom- the 70 never had an ECU so no light on the dash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 (edited) Full Synthetic? I always believed the 5w was the viscosity when cold and the 40 was the viscosity at operating temps. i.e. 5w40 is slightly thinner when cold compared to 10w40. I use 10w40 Semi synth on all mine. My GT warm idles at 1000rpm and the oil pressure is never less than 14PSI.Yes fully synthetic, I do believe quote me if I'm wrong here fully synth is an all round thinner oil then semi synth, if that's the case on my next oil change can I swap 5w 40 fully synth for 10w 40 semi synth or does the oil need flushing or something? ThanksPs sorry for hijacking your thread Edited March 21, 2017 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Yeah I was led to believe that too. Mineral oil is thicker than semi etc. Nah it won't need flushing I would say just swap to 10w40 if that's what you want to do! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Thankyou very much hope you get this issue sorted soon too 👍🏻 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Terry1.3GTT Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 (edited) Retard timing by a degree or two. Sounds like its det Edited March 22, 2017 by Terry1.3GTT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Oh good idea, I have a timing strobe so I could check the timing, never crossed my mind but could be a good shout, Thanks for the comment! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Quick update on this, I swapped pretty much everything... TPSICVFuel PumpECU coolant temp sensorDistributor CapSpark PlugsIgniterCam Pick upHT Leads (including king lead)Moved and Earthed the coilpack betterIAT sensorChecked all vac linesChecked battery voltage and Attached jump leads to the battery on my GTChecked the wiring to the ECUDid a compression test (all good)Checked spark (seemed a bit weak but was sparking) Still had no joy, the same symptoms- would crank and fire but then die. So I finally bit the bullet and took the ECU out of my GT and tried that. It fired straight up. It bogged when warm and was running lean and wouldn't rev but I've changed all sorts and it was set up for the R32 fuel pump (which I need to swap back in) So the issue was the ECU was dead. The car had an exceptionally bad leak for the past 6 month, I'd have a good 4 inches of water in the passenger side footwells after a rainy night. I've sorted this now but I guess it was water damage to the ECU as a result of the mobile swimming pool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nafeez2125 Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Im glad that its sorted. after swapping all that there was just the ECU left and indeed i was the ECU. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Haha always the way! Glad I've found out why it wouldn't start, now just tweaks to get it to run properly hopefully! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fozzie Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 The car had an exceptionally bad leak for the past 6 month, I'd have a good 4 inches of water in the passenger side footwells after a rainy night. I've sorted this now but I guess it was water damage to the ECU as a result of the mobile swimming pool. Glad that you managed to fix it after all that runaround! Out of interest, how was that much water getting in to the car? Did the windscreen fall out?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 No it turned out to be where the loom for the headlight loom enters/exits the car behind the passenger side wing, the grommet was not refitted after I had it out to spray. there was a good 4inch hole straight into the passenger side just behind the dash, but the hole was right below the drain from the scuttle panel. so all the water that drained from the windscreen was trailing straight into the car. it was an impressive leak lol. My fault entirely but all sorted now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fozzie Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Ahhh I see - that is a very unfortunate place to have a grommet missing haha. Glad it's all sorted now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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