StanMan Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Hi guys. Ever since having my WMS brakes back in November 2016, I have been having a problem with them making the car pull to the left, they were fitted with new braided lines and DS2500 which were bedded in using the correct procedure. If I bleed (I use DOT 5.1) the drivers side they go back to normal for a while (around 2-3 days) and then they get worse again. I only drive the car normally on weekends so when I come back to it I have to bleed the right drivers side caliper.I have bled it up using the two person method a few times on all calipers, front and rear along with using a Sealey VS020 vaccume bleeder, which just seems to pull air around the threads of the nipple. If I really put the anchors on so that the ABS nearly kicks in they start to pull evenly again and the car straightens up, leaving me to think that it's air in drivers side line being compressed. Or air trapped in the outside of the caliper as you can see from the pad wear. As you can see, somethings wrong with the drivers side. Passenger side pads fine.10.75mm (outer)10.35mm (inner) Driver side, you can see that the caliper pistons are further in on the inside than the outside:10.95mm (inner)11.85mm (outer) Is there some other method I can try? Edited March 25, 2017 by StanMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryan lang Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 silly question, are they the right way up? bleed nipple facing upwards? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 They have 4 nipples, 2 on top 2 on bottom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keri-WMS Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Over time some of the T20 calipers had 4 bleeders, some had 2. On the ones with 2, the bleeders go at the top, the blanking plugs go at the bottom. This kit is the new type with the reworked T20-S caliper (Alu pistons, larger single-part bleeders, additional piston seals). I don't THINK air would cause lop-sided braking as long as the front calipers are on the same circuit as each other. If the car uses twin circuits and there's air in one then it can't equalise in the same way if the master cyl runs out of travel. If you can find / make a set of say 8mm or 10mm pad-shape shims (wood will do), drop them in the calipers and use the pedal to push the pistons out a bit (DON'T do this without a shim in place, all that happens is the first piston to move will pop right out!). Then with all pistons a few mm out, use something with soft jaws to push them back home and see if any of them are sticky.When they are new I can push the pistons home by hand (JUST......and it hurts). Tell you what, if you make 4 wood shims 10mm thick but long so they stick out the caliper by say 6" you can use them as levers to push the pistons back and check they are moving ok. They should go back in more or less flush with the caliper body.If one set of pistons are sticking that would account for the pad wear oddness. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StanMan Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Will try that Keri and report back, would make sense as as soon as they get warm after a couple of stops it does seem to get worse. If they are sticking what should I do? Edited March 25, 2017 by StanMan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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