turbominicooper Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 so yeh basically as above my 5EFTE is running like dirt with a bunch of issues id touched on the subject of low compression in another thread the other day. at the start of March i did a compression test and was 150psi across all 4 then last week did another one and was pretty much 80, 100, 125 and 150 (1-4). i had been seeing the low oil pressure warning but sometimes it could be on at over 2000rpm so just ignored it thinking the sensor was faulty. playing about on sunday night annoying the missus i was flooring it and felt the car have a major power loss. monday morning i did a 15 mile round trip and noticed white smoke coming from under bonnet (cam cover breather) and more out the back then usual. looking today there is very slight white mayo on the oil cap so it looks like the 1.9mm ATHENA gasket may of given it up. also i had all the plugs out and when i blew into the spark plug holes i could hear air coming out the next spark plug hole (put hand over it and couldn hear anything)?? im at a bit of a dead end here cause i need the car on the road as none of my other projects are roadworthy. as simple as it is to whip head off i really dont want to find something else like cracked block, head, piston etc. is it possible that the earlier loss in compression was the gasket starting to go and then ive blown it completely? fingers crossed kind of meaning that there isnt anything wrong with the rings or have i just been dealt a double whammy and need to sort the lot out? leading up to this there was no changes only a new actuator but didnt boost past 1bar on it grrrrrrrrr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 100% sure its the metal gasket fit a oem 1 metal gaskets leak very fast if dec and head face is not t5reu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 So what u thinking get the std gasket on and then compression test it to see if there any ring issues? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 indeed get toyota 1 if you can as most pirate gaskets suck i tryed most and most failed im sure there wont be ring isseus but you never know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 indeed get toyota 1 if you can as most pirate gaskets suck i tryed most and most failed im sure there wont be ring isseus but you never know cool well thats a beam of hope. ill give it a bash before weekend and see how it goes. cheers man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 seems to be a bit of a recurring issue with the Athena/aftermarket headgaskets... As colin says would put an OEM one on and retest... Even If the rings were worn that wouldn't allow air to pass out of a neighbouring spark plug tube. If you or a mate vape, get them to blow into a plug tube and see if any smoke comes out of anywhere it shouldn't. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 seems to be a bit of a recurring issue with the Athena/aftermarket headgaskets... As colin says would put an OEM one on and retest... Even If the rings were worn that wouldn't allow air to pass out of a neighbouring spark plug tube. If you or a mate vape, get them to blow into a plug tube and see if any smoke comes out of anywhere it shouldn't.I'll get the sheesha out tonight Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Gotcha!10/10 colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 stupid fucking metal gaskets hey !!!! theres an uneven spot right there either block or head toyota gasket will do the job now with those gaskets you really need steel studs in place and not apr bolts with studs you can torque harder and more even Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 theres an uneven spot right there either block or head toyota gasket will do the job now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Check the block for flatness, ideal situation get it decked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Yeh the dip is on block side but luckily have genuine 5e gasket so you reckon that will take that ok? Standard studs too ya no bother the oem style gaskets bend to the curves of head and dec use some universal grease rub it on head and dec then put gasket on over time the grease burns up to a seal OLD SCHOOL TRICK YO !!!! HA HA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 use some universal grease rub it on head and dec then put gasket on over time the grease burns up to a sealSounds dodgy as! Maybe try it om a diff motor one day Check the block for flatness, ideal situation get it decked.I just need car running till my forge build is done mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 no no deffo not dodgy helps seal 99.99% more !!!!! i do it al the time i never do without Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Yeh will give it a bash next time.So I've done the hg swap from 1.9mm to standard and am now getting 50 150 150 150 so no gain on no.4 but even more of a drop on no.1 with the thinner gasked?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 (edited) fuck thats a bummer . did you inspect the head for gap where it happened if thats ok ringland damage i thinks but same comp on nr 4 150 with 1.9mm and still 150 with a 1mm gasket ( 1mm when compressed ) theres something not right there is your comp tester dodgy ?? Edited May 5, 2017 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Yeh all looked sound so looks like double whammy. Will do leak down but looks like new rings in that no.1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 check the cylinder, piston, ringlands, rings and head chamber on the cylinder that reads lowyou really should have done that before when everything was disassembled to make sure i'd even suggest you check them all (each cylinder/pistons, rings, etc) while you are at it this time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 check the cylinder, piston, ringlands, rings and head chamber on the cylinder that reads lowyou really should have done that before when everything was disassembled to make sure i'd even suggest you check them all (each cylinder/pistons, rings, etc) while you are at it this timeFull works this time and turns out the piston has cracked in between the rings.I've got another piston/rod ready to go in but the stamp on it is slightly different in where it says 16 on side of bearing and the broken on is 15 - straight swap?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gorganl2000 Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 take a pic and post, i'm not sure what you mean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 take a pic and post, i'm not sure what you meanIt's in car now will get pic Monday but on the main bearing where it's normally stamped b2 and stuff like that, around the other side it said 16 rather then 15. Both pistons had 3 stamped on top and it's gone in fine just wandered if it's ok to have one '16' and 3x '15' ones. Will get pic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maerijn Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 It's all about the piston and conrod assembly's weight mate, they cant be more than 10 grams difference Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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