Whitenoize Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) Ok guys so I've got a running glanza here and I'm going to use all the running gear to do a na conversion could anyone tell me exactly what I need to keep from the glanza please to make the job as easy as possible and if anyone could point me in the direction of a good guide or build thread that I could have a look at would be a great help Also if anyone has any wiring diagrams and the ecu pin out diagrams and also torque settings for the engine and chassis I'd be very great full if they could email me a copy Thanks Ryan Edited July 12, 2017 by Whitenoize Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukEp Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Are both the same year? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Are both the same year? I've not got the uk starlet yet mate I've got the glanza sitting here ready to strip at the wkend still on the look out for a clean uk 4 door Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) I basically want to run the bare minimum on the uk starlet I'll most likely do away with heaters etc as it will be a summer car what looms do I keep ? I mean engine obviously.. but do I keep the glanza dash loom? I want to run the na clocks etc I want to keep everything as original as possible on the na going full sleeper mode on this one but also want to save weight wer possible and get rid of as much crap off the loom as possible Edited July 12, 2017 by Whitenoize Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryncewind Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 The N/A box will work, They max out at 110 but are good fun on B roads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 N/a box does more than 110mph with the 4efe 6200rpm limit, another 1300rpm will be way past that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukEp Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) Yeah they do more than 110To make it easier get the same year (96 or 98 spec as the wiring looms are different. I managed to keep my na dash loom and clocks/steering column.....etc as I changed the just the plugs so they all plugged in. You can keep the na engine bay fuse box as well as it just plugs in. If your doing it I would personally turbo the na engine and keep the FTE as a spare. You'll be pleasantly surprised by how well it responds. Edited July 12, 2017 by lukEp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ryncewind Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Oh, Mine ran out at 110 ish, I guess i still have the limiter in then Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Haha yeah thats more like it, i had mine off the clock as an n/a with a good amount of rpm left. A gearbox doesnt have a limit as such its just the speed youll reach max rpm in top gear. Raise the rpm your top speed will increase Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 I was really planning on using the fte fuse box ,engine loom and loom for the front lights and trying to use the n/a dash loom if that's possible ? Or if it's easier just to use the fte dash loom I could use that and just cut out what's not needed ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Both conversions i did i left the dash and oem bay fusebox in the car. Just spliced the engine loom into them where required. Theres only about 12-15 wires that really need intergrating as most of the engine side of things runs directly to the ecu with only a few going to the cluster (eml, oil, speed, rpm), fuel pump is separate and then a power and earth but the power might come from the bay fuse box anyway. Bay box will be starter and alternator cable, power to ecu, and a few for some ancillaries iirc. Ep70-pt (french lad) did his this way i believe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 (edited) Think I might be biting off a bit more than I can chew with this one tbh electrics is definitely not one of my strong points but I'm going to crack on and give it a go only one way to learn Edited July 13, 2017 by Whitenoize Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 They really aren't that bad, run the loom and ecu in, plug all the engine wiring in the look ats whats left, its really not that much. From that point just take your time and constult people. I helped ep70 (joao) over facebook sort out a couple of his wiring niggles and I've never dealt with a 4efte. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whitenoize Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 See I planned on just swapping everything over but seems like I'd be giving myself way more work when I removed the fte loom from the glanza I labelled every single plug so I know exactly what they are and also labelled everything that could be stripped off the looms like electric windows mirrors abs and air con seems to be loads of stuff that's not needed I think once I've stripped of everything that's not needed it prob won't look like such a daunting task at the min I'm just looking at birds nests of wires and thinking wtf have I let myself in for lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Haha yeah i know the feeling, advantage of doing it with dash loom in situe is things like the headlight adjusters etc will all work, you wont need the indicator stalks, dash cluster etc and all the other stuff that might be wired up slightly differently isn't touched so isnt an issue. I know my situation was slightly different with a 20v but its the same principle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cattanach Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Why not just run the glanza dash ?Didn't think there was much difference between the N/A and glanza dash apart from colour Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukEp Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 It's the effort to get it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Why take it out if you dont need too? Theres only about 5 wires that need splicing into to get it working with the NA dash. Then you keep your height adjustment on the headlights and any other odds that are different between the two. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Ive done this now a couple times on lads ep91s. Also on my own 85 and done two N/a GTs too.Theres a good few ways to go about it!Way i did it on a ep91 was swap every wiring loom from the Glanza into the N/a. Cant go wrong. And you can do it in a weekend easy with a few beers.You could also get away with just swapping the engine ancillary loom into the N/a engine loom fusebox and splicing into the dash loom too.See stripping the loom to take shit out an that it saves hardly and weight and takes a bit too much time for my liking.Turbo the N/a engine, get a OEM flywheel lightened and use the N/a box. It'll be quicker off the mark than a standard ish Glanza. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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