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Help with kill switch


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My Kill switch is wired to the positive side of the battery.



I have a small junction box in the engine bay where I join the 12v from the switch to the original 12v lines from the battery. I then have a single cable to one side of the switch, and another single cable from the switch to the battery which is tucked behind the passenger seat.



You'll get the resistor in your FIA kit, that needs a good earth point so any left over voltage goes to ground rather than anywhere it really shouldn't. You'd only ever get that sort of problem if you were to kill the engine at high RPM's, but without the resistor you could quickly melt the ground wire causing a potential fire, especially in an accident when there are fluids involved.



From memory, the bottom two prongs labelled 2, need to split the Black & Red wire which goes to your ignition barrel, this is the 12v for ignition and injectors.



When the switch is in it's off position or removed, the only thing that should have continuity are the two prongs labelled 1. When it is in it's on position the large mate bolts and the prongs labelled two will have continuity.


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I stand corrected. Nearly all the cars at work have them, and they are all on the negative lead, but this is purely to prevent battery drain, Ive not looked at the racecar we care for and how its installed. I can see the point of the ignition cut part of it, but Im surprised it cuts the positive circuit from the battery.

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If the engine is running and you disconnect the battery the alternator will keep the car running so yes to do it correctly you need to cut the live feed from the ignition to the alternator. You also need to have an in line fuse as close to the battery as possible if you have relocated to the boot.

Edited by lukEp
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