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Specific setup (help needed)


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Hi all, looking for some advice/ideas on a specific setup I have in mind for my 98 Glanza V with OEM Lsd.

Car is currently totally standard except for an Apexi N1 catback. 87,000 km's.

I want to top mount my Blitz K1 turbo with an external wastegate set to 0.8 (I want to keep my standard ecu and avoid fuelcut).

Next I want to decat it, add an fmic and put some trd leads on.

I have a few questions;

1. Will my standard ecu handle the above? Or will I mess up the engine ideal and cause other issues?

2. Can I add a short route air filter? Or will this cause issues?

Basically I want a clean looking top mount setup without going too far from stock, I only need it to go max top speed 140kmph but I'd like to get there quick :)

Any help/suggestions would be much appreciated!

Matt.

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if your gas quality is good i suppose that the stock ecu should handle your plans up to boost cut....so you are looking at around 11/12psi boost max.


however, i can foresee problems with boost cut if you get spikes on the odd occasion with the decat, short ram, cold nights



may be safer your run at maybe 10 psi or you will need exceptional boost control---that 0.8bar spring may be cutting it a bit too close for comfort with the stock boost cut


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If you have a good EWG you could stick an 11psi spring in, 0.83bar which is just under fuel cut.

Do all the mods you want, short route air filter, decat, FMIC etc.

Just maybe avoid extended periods of full throttle in winter.

Or run a 0.6bar spring and up the boost with an EBC, you will actually get a better boost pattern and less likely to hit fuel cut if you set the max boost to say 0.83bar.

Dont forget fueling mods! Last thing you want is running lean.

Uprated 255 fuel pump, FPR if youre set on keeping the standard ECU. Possibly injectors as theyre getting onto 20year old.

Then if you dont have a wideband take it to have fueling atleast checked on a dyno.

Future and bomb proof then :)

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Be fine.standard ecu fuels a td04 at 0.8 bar fine

yeah, i think fuel wise he will be fine, as the stock ecu runs rich anyways and on that size turbo with decent gas the stock ecu should handle ignition fine as well

for me, the main issue i think he will have is hitting boost cut on the odd occasion with a 0,8 bar spring

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It's not so much the ewg, it's the ability to control the boost curve and hold it just under the fuel cut without disturbance.

Like Dan said I'd go with a 0.6bar spring and a good quality ebc should be able to manipulate the boost level to were you need to work it

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Thanks lads, much appreciated! I forgot to mention reliability is also a really important thing on this setup, using it as a daily driver and just want to get in and go everyday no issues..

I'll post a list later of the possible setup and see if I miss anything.

One other question, has anyone used an electronic voltage stabiliser on a starlet before?

Matt.

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Wont hurt to have it fitted mate and adds a bit of colour to the engine bay.

I ran a similar setup to what you mentioned above and car was a blast to drive and ever reliable.

Hybrid ct9

Zisco manifold

Tial ewg@ .8 bar

Arc top mount

Jam pnp ecu

Didn't have it dyno tested but the car ran like a dream.

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Here is my list:

1. Blitz K1

2. Wepr S/S top mount manifold for ct9/ct12 (Need to source one)

3. Tial 38mm EWG (set to 0.6, 0.7 or 0.8 bar, not sure yet) with ebc

4. Mishimoto fmic with short route hard pipes

5. TRD leads

6. Short route air filter

7. Alloy half rad with slim fan

8. Welbro 255 fp and fpr

9. Update the injectors and give it a full service

10. Apexi N1 exhaust with decat

If anyone sees anything I'm missing to keep it nice and reliably let me know!

Also, what power do people think that setup would make? Roughly..

Matt

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With these cars its more of a case of where do you stop, with regards to modifying!

Chose a mapper before you chose an ECU, the blue and ultimate have been done and done again but not every single mapper does them. The dude ive been speaking to about mapping mine doesnt touch piggybacks.

Anything mappable is going to be a benefit over a stock ECU, due to the adjustments that can be made in the mapping tables.

Benefits being driveability, reliability, increased power, economy etc.

The spec list youve written looks good!

Noticed you said about a JAM ECU, i did run a Mines P&P on my first GT an age ago and it was good for what it was, i got it cheap, but mappable ECU is the way, speak to whoever is going to be mapping it though to see what they suggest.

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Thanks dude that's a really good idea! I don't have a mapper yet! So will start looking around!

My goal is roughly 200bhp at the wheels, quick spool up time and nice n reliable for everyday use

Youd only need to stick to 0.8bar area with the standard ECU, if you go for a mappable ECU you can push the K1 until it stops making power.

Think Gainzy ran 220 ish at the fly on a K1.

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My advice would be to buy a decent boost gauge and run a decent ebc, gather all your parts together and drive it straight to a mapper. I wanted my k1 to 1 bar but the little beasts can take up to 1.3 bar according to toyotagtturbo source. I made just shy of 220 at the fly but it's the torque that speaks. The torque from the k1 is just like td04 I made 200lbs which is pretty crazy for how small it is just top end that lets it down but our gearbox'sare not built for top end ratio anyways. It's a corner turbo that will keep up ;) I plan on maxing it on a forge engine just because nobody else has or what I have seen or heard. Anyways a read Dave Ashton had a k1 a long time ago and had problems getting his right running plug n play. It's all in the map the map is the key I'd only run it at 1 bar though you won't need a fpr. I just use the stock works fine. The emb and emu as far as figures go they are just the same the emu removes speed cut but so does a gearbox convertor. I personally wouldn't run a plug n play I lost sleep for a week making this decision. They do their job but for the price getting it mapped is the better option. Good luck. :)

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My advice would be to buy a decent boost gauge and run a decent ebc, gather all your parts together and drive it straight to a mapper. I wanted my k1 to 1 bar but the little beasts can take up to 1.3 bar according to toyotagtturbo source. I made just shy of 220 at the fly but it's the torque that speaks. The torque from the k1 is just like td04 I made 200lbs which is pretty crazy for how small it is just top end that lets it down but our gearbox'sare not built for top end ratio anyways. It's a corner turbo that will keep up ;) I plan on maxing it on a forge engine just because nobody else has or what I have seen or heard. Anyways a read Dave Ashton had a k1 a long time ago and had problems getting his right running plug n play. It's all in the map the map is the key I'd only run it at 1 bar though you won't need a fpr. I just use the stock works fine. The emb and emu as far as figures go they are just the same the emu removes speed cut but so does a gearbox convertor. I personally wouldn't run a plug n play I lost sleep for a week making this decision. They do their job but for the price getting it mapped is the better option. Good luck. :)

Thanks for the information! Lots to think about now, leaning towards getting it mapped, I really want it running sweet with 200bhp on the k1, I have a blitz boost gauge but on the lookout for a greddy..

Will update when I make up my mind, thanks again all!

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