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Hillclimb / Sprint Glanza build


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On 07/01/2018, 12:25:08, Calum122 said:

Latest update involves removal of the complete wiring loom inside and engine bay. Also engine has been removed complete with gearbox to allow prep before the new engine is fitted. Hopefully next week should see interior painted to allowing the refit to begin:D

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Cheers :thumbsup:

Been a productive week , started by fitting modded wiring loom back onto flocked dash. Then proceeded to fit dash along with all clocks etc. Replaced steering wheel along with a snap off boss. Everything seemed to fall into place so ended up making up a carbon radio blank to mount my delta dash happy days :D

Reattached battery and engine bay wiring to check I hadn't cut out too much and luckily everything still works :drinks:

Although  front wipers didn't work when I first fitted everything . Turned out to be a faulty wiper switch !

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1 hour ago, GordR said:

Great build Mike,

Which class are you going to run 

Cheers getting there.

I will be running in the Scottish hillclimb/sprints class A2 road cars 1400cc to 2000cc 

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Well a weak moment on eBay means I know have another multi gauge in the form of a 3.2" LCD zada tech system. I had one previously in another starlet and it's a great piece of kit. This one displays oil pressure , fuel pressure , boost and oil temp . I have managed to mount it in the drivers air vent after some f@#**ng about . So centre display will be used for egt temp , Batt voltage and lambda :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well been tidying up loose ends and trying to keep everything as light as possible.  Unfortunately I have to have working front electric Windows. But I decided to ditch all original module and rewire with these little match box sizes controllers which work a treat! Then began on hopefully my last bit of wiring:D

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Due to me wanting to run coil on plugs with the me221 ecu , I had to bridge the jumpers on the ecu board for the extra ignition drivers which involved a soldering  iron . After speaking to Matt at motorsport electronics I was a lot more confident in what needed done for this. There will need to be wires added to ecu plug for this but I'm planning on using the redundant air con solenoid  wiring and un-pinning it into the correct pins on ecu plug. I am running honda k20 3 wire smart coils which have 3 connections consisting of

1. Ign 12v +ve 

2. Ground to rocker cover

3. Ecu control

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Then lastly I've had my Wepr downpipe modified with extra bosses for EGT and a wideband lambda

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This week seems to have been slow going but slowly getting there. I've been concentrating on getting the engine pieced together. Involving sorting out manifold/ downpipe with heatwrap not my favouirite and fitting for the final time. Also remote oil sender kit was fitted with original sender for oil light and additional pressure sender (note original oil sender is 1/8 bspt) same as Subaru. Thanks to help on Facebook I managed to order and fit the correct an6 adapters for my zisco fuel rail (an6 - 7/8 UNF 14 tpi) not convinced they will seal first time. I also sourced a new 4efe single multi v pulley which has rubber damping also as wasn t happy with my toothed setup. Finally I've stripped and blanked off fast idle thermostat under throttle bodie just needs painted

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well after taking a week off from doing the car , due to me losing motivation I needed a break but ready for the final push:thumbsup:

Managed to finish throttle body and reassembled with new screws and gaskets I tapped it internally to block cold fast idle as i know these give issues and removed unwanted internal thermostat . 

Then turned my attention to coil on plugs first of all I terminated all wires for coil pack plugs and sussed out routing . Due to the fact the injection is batch fired on these starlets I decided to wire these as wasted spark rather than sequential. After more discussions with Matt from (motorsport electronics me221 Ecu) . Due to me still wanting my loom to be compatable with original ecu and distributor, I have had to unsolder ignB jumper as this is for distributor white wire and might cause damage if not cut and reterminated for coil pack use. I have then added new pins to ecu 26 pin plug in pins 19 and 6 which are empty originally to use to fire coils 1&4 together and 2&3 . Then instead of cutting plug off original coil wires I have traced live wire back loom and spliced in another live wire which will be terminated in another 3 pin plug along with new wires from ecu (hope that all makes sense):sad: . So original distributor and coil wires are untouched to allow to revert back to distributor at any time with just ecu settings change. 

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