maddox710 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 Very impressive work Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 10 hours ago, maddox710 said: Very impressive work Mike Cheers I'm trying to simplify wiring and remove unnecessary items Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Thought I would add a Little how too guide for coil on plug with the motorsport electronics Starlet ep91 ME221 Ecu. This is how I did it with the idea being you can still use the same loom to run on standard ecu / distributor and lead setup if needed. I found it pretty difficult to find info on this conversion and hope it helps anyone wanting to do the same. Firstly I will be using Honda ep3 k20 3 wire coil on plugs ( you will need a boss welded or bonded to rocker cover to secure these down) The 3 wires to these are wired as follows You will need these also I started by removing all the high tension parts from the distributor , followed by fitting one of these from wickedep racing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 You will need to make a sub harness for the coil on plugs the earths can be all linked together , pin2 earths these direct to the cylinder head there is a handy threaded mate hole beside inlet. For my setup I wired the ecu signal /trigger wires pin 1 for wasted spark . Meaning coils cylinder 1 & 4 trigger wire are linked together and coils cylinder 2 & 3 are linked. Pin 3 is coil live which can be looped together also which is supplied from original coil live. So this should leave you with 3 wires to terminate into a 3 pin plug like this This is how the harness looks partially done Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Next you will need to add terminals to the ecu 26 pin plug if like me you want to be able to revert back to original coil with distributor and leads / original ecu if needed. The ME221 starlet ecu has 4 ignition drivers ign A being used for standard coil leaving ign B C & D . Ign B however already has a wire (white wire to distributor) so this needs to be left leaving ign C & D . So this is what I used these are pins 6 & 19 of the 26 pin ecu plug see below This plug Once these have been added I run them in loom exiting beside original coil plug This leaves the coil live which I spliced into original coil live thick black / white Thick Red wire is what i added Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 These 3 wires will then need terminated to match your sub harness you all ready made to coils . So terminal 6 you added to 26 pin plug will control coils 1 &4 leaving terminal 19 to control coils 2 & 3 (ecu signal / trigger ). Live wire bridged into original thick black / white will match sub harness supplying 12v to terminals 3 of k20 coils. This leaves the jumper terminals in the Me221 ecu to be bridged with solder only one labelled ign C & ign D . Please ignore the fact I bridged B as it is now unsoldered as distributor uses this pin. PLEASE do not connect coils and ecu without contacting Motorsport electronics first as ecu settings need changed before connecting sub harness or ecu will be damaged Hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) Engine getting very close to fitting now , happy days Sorted out light weight alternator setup , decided to revert to fitting a new water pump . As I originally had a blanking plate fitted and was going to use a electric water pump. But time restraints mean I've reverted to the original setup for now. Custom alternator mount Managed to fit new thermostat and sealed on water housing along with new MJC coolant pipes Fitted my newly powder coated modified seat base for the final time and couldn't resist laying new belts in place for a look Then cleaned up fuel tank with wire wheel and treated with rust killer before resealing with stonechip . I then fitted my new walbro high flow pump and modded fuel tank breather to run up filler neck with one way valve rather than running to front of car.(as the carbon canister is ditched along with steel breather pipe to front) Getting close now Edited March 10, 2018 by Mike84 Pic link wrong Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Did you make the seat base's yourself Mike? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 29 minutes ago, maddox710 said: Did you make the seat base's yourself Mike? I originally bought a bride low seat base but never realised my motordrive bucket seats were a lot wider So ended up chopping them up and rewelding them making them lower and wider. Would have been alot cheaper making them from scratch Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maddox710 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Ah I see. I need to Make some. I hate the stock glanza seat and driving position Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I've still my passenger side to make , also agreed seating position is very hi I find Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Small odds and sods done this week in prep for engine installation. Which included fitting up all vacuum lines and sorting out other fittings . Seems to be taking forever but engine should be in this week Meanwhile removed original battery tray as this needs removed for intercooler pipe clearance . I will be welding a small plate on top to bring strength back to mount. Also will be running a small race battery which weighs only 1kg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) Lithium ion battery I'm using is 190cca And measures a miniscule 150mm long and 87mm wide Edited March 18, 2018 by Mike84 Spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scooby doo Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Looking awesome Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Great stuff! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jiggaman_16 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 12 hours ago, Mike84 said: Lithium ion battery I'm using is 190cca And measures a miniscule 150mm long and 87mm wide IS that nearly enought to crank a 4E mate? I'm just sayin this based off the fact that our cars normally use around 450 CCA. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Need to jump on this lithium battery train I think, the lightweight gel battery I use is somewhat of a lead weight in comparison. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gainzy Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 On 3/18/2018, 1:26:04, Mike84 said: Lithium ion battery I'm using is 190cca And measures a miniscule 150mm long and 87mm wide Is there a battery out there that sits in stock position, same terminals just featherlight weight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) 18 hours ago, jiggaman_16 said: IS that nearly enought to crank a 4E mate? I'm just sayin this based off the fact that our cars normally use around 450 CCA. I discussed it with the battery supplier and we both reckoned this was enough. However he did assure me that he would take it back if it wasn't fit for purpose so time will tell ? Edited March 19, 2018 by Mike84 Spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 3 hours ago, Gainzy said: Is there a battery out there that sits in stock position, same terminals just featherlight weight? I bought these as well to fit original terminals need to machine them smaller for jap battery terminals . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I did buy a Fensport crank pulley, but they've messed me about multiple times now. Besides, you single pulley actually looks better, although I'm more interested in the weight saving. That said, for the price of it, it looks like worth a buy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Belt-Pulley-Crankshaft-Toyota-eng-2e-4efe-5EFE-COROLLA-E90-E10-E11-92-02/253234735148?hash=item3af5f7682c:g:efEAAOSw5VtZ9v5c Is that the one you got? Would you say it's any lighter than the stock one? I think I may have to copy you on that one to be fair! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TimD Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I bought a second hand 4efe pulley and removed the power steering part of it (4 bolts). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike84 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Yeah that's the exact one I bought I'm sure it took just over a week to arrive but much cheapness It is approx 1kg lighter than stock and still has the rubber for harmonic dampening so won't cause any issues buy it up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Calum122 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Cheers Mike, a kg lighter, that's literally as light as the fensport ones. I shall get that then! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kingjnr2677 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Aye Mike e boy, Thought you would have a build thread on here! Looking good and hopefully the engines in the car soon! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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