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Howdy all,

Well im thinking of lowering the EP91 with King Springs & putting Monroe Sensatrac's in aswell. I've read a few different things about peoples opinions of also installing a magic camber kit and / or an adjustable panhard rod to smack the whole alignment of everything back together after its lowered.

I was just wondering for those of you who haven't installed these extras, whether you are getting excessive tyre wear or lack of handling or anything like that...i mean its only 30-40mm lower - does it make that much of a difference??

Thanks in advance,

Craig

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Providing your lowering your cars with lowered springs, regardless of who makes it, you should upgrade your shocks as the new shocks are actually shorter (should be anyways) and will give you the travel that you need with the new springs.

As for what to modify for handling reasons, i would go the following route:

1. struts - shocks and springs/coilovers + a panhard rod to centre the rear axle

2. Rear sway bar from whiteline

3. Anti-lift/caster kit from whiteline

4. Strut braces - front, rear and lower controller arm (whiteline supply these, you can use the ep82 stock one on the ep91 aswell)

5. Front swaybar

6. All new bushes from SuperPro Bushes.

7. Now you go back to the start and get a better set of shocks and springs from Bilstein :)

Hope it helps,

Ivan

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yea..

what im sayin is tried and tested

id say the anti lift/castor kit is an essential mod and should be the first thing you should do to your starlet for the most noticable difference....

just fitting this alone on standard suspensions settings is recomended..then you can realy see how much of a difference it makes

it totaly transforms steering feel making the car feel alot more direct..

if you could think of a primative lsd you get the picture of the effect on handling

if your after a chassis you can exploit usin different weight shift technics to throw the car into a corner a rear arb is a must ..

lifting off will eliminate virtualy all understear...leaving you with a very safe and predictable tail end that you can experiment with.....

any non adjustable shox will burst at some point or another if used in conjunction with lowering springs..ive been through a few of these along with strut tops(mabe this is because of the way i drive or the bumpy roads i drive on)..

koni yellow adjustables are a quality shox to try and match the spring rate of any lowering spring...

idealy you only should lower the car 25-35 mil to keep all the geometry correct but this is not gospel mine is lowered 70ish..

everything else mentioned by ivandr is not essential but would be nice to have..

all added up together would give you an imensly capable chassis that could hold its own with any car on the right road in the right conditions....

let us know what you do decide

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Enzo, you are right about the anti-lift kit...however i found the rear swaybar to be slightly more useful as a first upgrade... (note the shocks were the first on my list cause genearlly people want to lower their car before they do anything else - looks wise so thats why it came in first).

I will be writing up a starlet specific article about suspension and so forth.

i would suggest bracings as the amount the starlet chassis flexes is not funny :) Its nice to have a predictable corner and the braces work well :)

Regards,

Ivan

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I'll throw my 2p worth in too, I found new poly bushes makes a big difference, especially on a car over 50k miles whose rubber is a little tired, steering feel is hugely improved, also just because you have standard suspension that it's all perfectly correctly aligned, any problems that exist now will be exagerated when lowering the car so once you've spent moeny on modifying it, get it all set up correctly, it makes a big difference!

I've had good experience with KYB shocks, I bought them as they were cheap, but I was suprised at their ability, but I agree with the guys, get shocks designed for the amount you are lowering.

Set up wise you'll want about 1-1.5 degrees of negative camber at the front and 0-0.5 degrees at the back.

Jon

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NO, the rear is a solid axle, and the only adjustment you can do is with the panhard rod... do a search, im sure i have covered this before...

Ivan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ah ok, I've not much experience with solid axles...Will go and read up, thanks!

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reading all this has me confused i rang my local tuning shop & asked to get all the above for the rear of my glanza i got the adj panhard rod ,anti lift kit & adj arb all from whiteline but they said they couldnt get uprated bushes off them is this true & did i need the adj arb it just sounded better so i bought it

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bypass your tuning shop and get uprated bushes from whitline..

if your willing to wait i could supply you with front control arm bushes,..

also i have a batch of 100 semi complete anti lift kits almost ready..

just need to stump up some extra cash for tooling of the bush clamps then they are ready to go.

they are similar to whitlines except they have 12mil plates for added castor.

the adjust anti roll bar is esssemtil in making the ep handle better, eradicating understear.. almost iliminating it.

each of the items you have meantioned will give you a noticable leep in handling performance, this will make you realise just how shit the standard starlet handles..

fit each one individualy and learn how the car reacts to each mod.

that way you willl realy be able to get a grip of what the ep chassis can realy do

if you like driving your in for a real treat

hope this helps

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to get the most benefit from a strut brace its best to also invest in a lower tie bar.

which links the bottom of the struts together in effect creating a box of strenght.

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