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Just got a EP?....Basic servicing and maintenance tutorial


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These are the things i think are must when buying a new EP, before any real performance modifications begin. Most members drive about with the standard turbo cranked up for a while before moving on to a different setup so it pays to invest in some quality parts/service parts to keep your engine healthy so you can safely move onto a different turbo setup without the need of a costly engine rebuild.

Servicing

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  • Oil, most recommended by opie oils is the 5w40 synthetic (Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S) for the 4EFTE

Yes its expensive, and i wondered this for a long time....is it better to get a cheap 10w40 and change the oil every 3-4k than get an expensive oil and change it every 10k...heres your answer directly from someone who i`d regard as an expert in the field...

“Hi Asad

Using a top end oil and changing at 10k/annually is better for the car than a basic oil changed twice as often. In fact it's better for the car even if the basic oil is changed every week or so.

Regards

Tim

OPIE OILS”

Lets break it down....using 12k as a rough guide

Castrol GTX (you know the white cheap one) £10

Blueprint oil filter say £5 (for arguments sake)

Changed every 3k (4 changes)

£40 + £20 = £60

Silkolene pro £45 (current price) + £5 = £50 (the oil is on offer from time to time and can be had for £37 iirc and theres members discount and free postage offers)

Changed every 12k (1 change)

£10 difference, and a much better oil for your car....you decide

  • Oil, for the 4EFE...a decent 10w40 will be perfect look for Fuchs/Millers/mobile 1 etc

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  • Oil filter, blueprint ones are as good as any imo...4e-fe and 4e-fte are interchangeable and can be had for £2-5 depending on who you know

Theres loads of articles on the net about which oil filter is better, with plenty lots of disections and geeky analysis going on.....the toyota genuine filter most times than not always comes out so if youve got the coin to spare get a genuine one.

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  • Magnetic drain plug, can be had for £5+ any Toyota one will work...each and everytime ive drained my oil theres been some sort of metal filings stuck to it...imo a must have mod for anyone...get a new Toyota sump washer or re-use your old one instead of the metal one provided and DONT OVERTIGHTEN IT!! You have been warned they are alloys items thus are softer than the original so be carefull!!

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  • Dipstick wiper, countless times ive gone to check my oil with nothing to wipe the dipstick with....till i came across this little device

http://www.richbrook...iper-rodney/144

cheap as chips and does the job!

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  • Spark plugs, NGK Iridium’s are regarded as the best in pretty much every tuning circle please don’t but HKS/TRD they are mearly re-branded NGK/DENSO ones with a hefty price tag don’t buy any other shit either. Ebay is the best place, a set can be had for ~£25, cheaper than most if not all traders. Iridiums have a longer lifespan compared to coppers so do offer better value for money aswell as performance gains.

Depending on your mods you can get:

BKR5EIX (grade 5, for N/As)

BKR6EIX (grade 6)

BKR7EIX (grade 7)

BKR8EIX (grade 8)

Standard NGK coppers are also fine, change the last 3 words to –EYA but I’d recommend changing them more often

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  • Air filter, not many owners use one nowadays....mainly for the N/A`s id recommend the K&N part number: 33-2634

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  • Coolant, Often neglected....toyota red premix is recommended and get a thermostat too....most cooling issues/temp gauges not moving etc are due to the thermostat...our cars are atleast 10-15 years old now so it safe to say it will be past its best!

They are cheap to replace and save sooooo much headache

To replace, drain all the coolant, follow the bottom rad hose up to the engine....disconnect it and undo the two 10mm nuts...give the thermostat housing a tap and replace the stat! Don’t over tighten the nuts!!

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  • Gear oil, the general consensus seems to be to use Silkolene syn5 75w90 for both LSD and normal (unsure on this) redline also make a very good oil.

Basic mods to ensure reliability

These are the mods i think should be done to all standard turbo EP`s when you acquire them.....

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  • Boost gauge, get a decent one plumbed in asap....turbo cars require extra attention. In case of a problem one of the first questions asked is “what boost you running mate”....how are you suppose to know?? Get one fitted!! It also gives you piece of mind when driving about...

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  • Braided oil feed, countless engines have been ruined by the stock oil feed snapping/breaking...get a braided one, even if you change set-up you`ll still get decent monies back for one

  • Silicone water pipes to the turbo, a perishable item and can mean the loss of your engine very quickly if one was to split....replace them when changing coolant...also inspect the metal part which can corrode and get it sorted!!

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  • Oil return pipe to the sump, again it can crack over time...leading to engine failure...get a oil specific silicone pipe (not any old silicone one it must be able to handle hot oil)

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