JayJ Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 (edited) Maybe it's time to get some info up finally. Don't expect this to be a big power built thread, but more likely a documentation of what have been/will be done. :-)I bought this 96 spec Glanza V just over a year ago from a private seller. The car has been imported 2010 from Japan andbasicly all the mods were done there too.SPECS UPDATED 04.02.14Mileage 181000kmEngineJAM Racing forged engineRW-developments race spec rocker cover with catch tankZisco mildsteel manifoldTongs GT spec hybridBlitz decatUltra red ignition leadsSARD fprHKS adjustable actuatorHKS mushroom air filter kit - relocated behind the passenger headlampHKS Hi-Power Silent exhaust with hi flow catEmanage UltimateCoolingJAM Racing FMIC with JAM pipework, custom Zisco hot pipeCivic rad with 1.1bar cap and slim fanWater + Redline water wetterTRD 71c thermoJD Tuning cooling panelDrivetrainHelix organic fast road clutch and lightweight flywheelChassisD2 coiloversZEP Racing Adjustable 3 point rear strut braceC-pillar braceGrooved front discsMintex padsRG braided brake linesTegiva BMCSRota HM3's with Toyo T1R 195/50/15"OthersDepo 60mm 4in1 boost, oil press, oil temp and voltage gaugeAEM uego AFR gaugeIndiglow dialsEarth X lithium battery relocated in bootEurospec headlights - we have LHD trafficDefa block heater for winter useMitsuba Alpha II hornsRäzo carbon gear knobCar came with Rota GT3's, the scoop and interior were stickerbombed,bumper's cut for fmic is soooo ugly too :-GCurrent look Edited August 17, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 (edited) I have had problems with clutch since I bought the car and it has been difficult to select gears every now and then. After owning the car one week I adjusted the pedal and it seemed to sort out the problem back then. Anyway, two months ago the biting point started to change randomly and sometimes gears were difficult to select too. I adjusted the pedal again, changed fluids and bleed the system and everything seemed to work again. Two weeks went and I was driving back to home when the gears started struggling again and clutch didn't disengage at all, so something was obviously broken. I have changed the master and slave cylinders, but it didn't help and the car has been standing still 1½months now. Happily I got these on friday and I'm going to deliver the parts to workshop on monday morning, so the car might be running again next week. I ended up choosing an organic fast road kit, because the car is in a "daily" use. I also bought a new fork just for sure to get the car running without fail. It will be much easier to drive in traffic than the old on/off sintered clutch and no more juddering starts. New kit is also rated for 240nm, so it should handle the current setup easily :-) Edited February 4, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Looking good dude:)Hope you sort the clutch problem out with them sexy new parts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ro55ifumi Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Nice base to start with and looks to be in good condition.John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
markostarletturbo Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Nice work looks a tidy v Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 I got a phone call this morning from the workshop and my car is now ready for pick up. They changed the clutch assy and adjusted the pedal, but mechanic said that reverse gear crunches. He thought that the issue might be the slave cylinder not pushing the fork enough to get the clutch disengage fully.I have changed the slave and master cylinders before workshop got the car, so could the rod be too short and cause reverse crunch? I understood that other gears work fine. Any idea where I can get a longer rod or somekind of bushing to get the fork move more? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Nice one! The new wheels look a lot better than the red GT3's. And good to hear the car is on the road again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Simon Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 If you select first then select reverse does this stop the crunch happening?Mine does this buy selecting first before reverse it lines up the gears in the box so you don't have to use the reverse syncro which is what will be worn causing the crunch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
micky boy Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 If you select first then select reverse does this stop the crunch happening?Mine does this buy selecting first before reverse it lines up the gears in the box so you don't have to use the reverse syncro which is what will be worn causing the crunch.X2 mine dose this also lolAlso if i lift the clutch pedal back up and put it back down it will allow me to select reverse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) x3 actually! Pushing clutch pedal up and down usually helps. Edited October 16, 2012 by whitestar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ro55ifumi Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 x4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryan lang Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 yeah reverse crunch is common on these car looks good though mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) So I went to pick up the car after work and the first thing I tried was the reverse gear and it was completely silent! Clutch is now ten times better and easier to drive in traffic. So happy to have this problem solved finally. :-) Workshop guy also told, that the old friction plate was damaged and flywheel - clutch assy aligment pins were cut off, apparently by earlier owner Oh yeah and postman was here too! ;-) Edited February 4, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) More goods arrived! :-) Of course radio, heater control lights and dials must color match! I also tried to adjust the idle RPMs today. I did shortcircuit TE1 and E1 from diagnostic plug and then adjusted the idle screw. Idle dropped just below 1000, but after a few seconds the idle went up to 1000-1100. I have JAM ecu, so will it readjust idle by itself? The idle screw is now turned totally in, so I can't adjust it anymore. Should I look for a small leak? Edited February 4, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 I don't know what to say, but I just read this: http://www.todoroki-trading.com/stock/toyota/076-Starlet/GlanzaV-EP91.htmlAnd what makes me speechless is that is my car, with JAM Racing engine! Thanks to Whitestar for finding this out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iamlegend Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 what cd player is thatmate? wanting a double din one just wondering for fitment etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 JVC kw-xr811 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pick1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Mines a jvc double din aswel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukEp Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Nice find!!! Jammy if you ask me. Lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Spec list updated. Also got Tegiwa BMCS installed a few weeks ago and it does fit!I'm going to pick up my refurbed BBS RZ's tommorrow morning, so some pics will follow soon ;-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 (edited) How did you get it to fit I can't get mine to to fit at all the bmcs Edited November 15, 2012 by akyakapotter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 (edited) first I drilled a bigger hole for the long stopper bolt and changed it to a shorter one. Then I cut ~0.5cm away from the hex extension piece (or what it is called?) and installed the whole thing. The engine mount bolt should be coming out only 0.5cm or so to get this thing fit nicely. If the engine mount bolt is coming out more than ~0.5cm, then you have to cut more from the extension piece if possible or change a shorter engine mount bolt too. Edited February 4, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitestar Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 If the engine mount bolt is coming out more than ~0.5cm, then you have to cut more from the extension piece if possible or change a shorter engine mount bolt too.ORPut some washers on the other side like I did: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 I'll give mine a bash some time soon cheers guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayJ Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) Sorry for the bad pics, took these fast with a phone and it's sooo dark in here Tegiwa BMCS fitted Blue little pills Right rear wheel is a bit twisted, so they put a lot of weights on, 100grams or something lol. Atleast the car's not shaking. Edited February 4, 2015 by JayJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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