morgey Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Sounds good dude, Always check in on your updates. What are you doing engine mount wise? Im sure I've asked before but cant remember lolIm using ae92 top gearbox and cambelt mounts and get loads of engine movement and need to do something about it. Did contemplate some sort of front pin/bar type mounts off of each side of the engine into a small rubber block not to take any weight just for torque dampening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 I got rid of the stock inserts and poured some new ones so they're solid now - I think they are sure80 from memory. Its pretty harsh and im tempted to try a slightly lower rating if I did them again. I half made a north/south cross member with a mount on the front of the gearbox when building the last setup but in the end didn't use it. I'm half expecting to tear the rear mount out of the floor so have braced it back to the bottom a-arm mounts. Hopefully it holds - it handles ~300whp last time so should be ok touch wood haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Thats what im trying to avoid tbh. I have a poly rear mount and find the vibration is a bit too much so thinking of other ways around.I nearly did the same with the underbrace but couldnt work it with the standard rad position so scrapped that. I might mock a design up for my front torque mount idea as im learning cad atm so seems a good thing to try do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Mine isn't too bad, im just getting old and grumpy haha. There's a full range of different rated filler so you could try a lower rating - will still be so much better than the stock mounts strength wise. I had a nolathane mount made but it lasted 1 launch from new before it crapped out. Pouring them is definitely the way. Which modeling program are you using? I'm fairly proficient with Rhino - great program! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Do you have a link to the kind of stuff you used? I know some people over here use bathroom sealant and other similar stuff but id rather use something that has an actual rating so if i needed to i could change to suit my needs.Just starting out on solidworks 2010, its preliminary a mold tool design program but you can design components on it, I've only been working with it for a few weeks so still loads to learn but the best way to learn is by trying stuff you've not done before! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 It was years ago but I think this is the stuff http://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/04126906/urethane-putty-devcon-flexane-80-454gm CAD is a good skill to have - I've just drawn up a basic coil mount bracket but I'd drawn up all sorts over the years - so handy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Yaris uses this clutch master system. ( Pretty good system ) 1 fluid can type for both. Also exchangeable as i was looking for an replacement on my leaky p7 clutch master. If you want to reinforce rubber mounts, try sikaflex polyurethane kit. ( marine use ) This is 1 i've tested, the stuff stay put and won't vibrate heavily.Where other brands may fail and be pushed out duo to pressure and loads. As for the valve P7 heat exchanger got a flap in the heater. Cold = cold air blowing, hot = hot air blowing. Without the pipe control unit/valve. Thats why i asked what function does it have haha. Can remember studied the inside on the heater as i was putting in a p8 dashboard. The P7, P8 and p9 got a flap in the heat exchanger i noticed. But the p7 is the one where no water will go thru. As an extra option haha. But it would speed up the temperature in the system if the water won't circle the heater. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 The yaris clutch master is a good option - just have to be careful that the pedal ratio / cylinder size matches the size clutch your using - when I looked into the different versions most were only 200mm clutches ie 2szfe etc. You could always much around the with pin length of the slave cylinder if there were any throw issues I guess. Ive tried sikaflex polyurethans in the past and they were much better at reducing vibration but in my experience they did split open - especially the rear engine mount. At the time I was trying to find a solution I was helping out a company that prepared evo 7/8/9 rally cars and they put me onto the devcon product. No doubt there's other products that will be better - I'm just lazy, it worked so I haven't changed it haha. With the heater solinoid you also get better temperature control ie warm with high fan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Lazy picture-less update. Currently balls deep in wiring this bitch - about half way thru so all going well another week and I should be powering up the ecu. Have redone the battery mounting in the boot, feeds via isolator, charge circuit, uprated fuel pump relay/wiring and currently working on the uprated coil +ve feed. Have had the main chassis stuff powered up - all works except the tail lights are out by the looks - have a vague memory of stealing the bulbs out of it at some stage so will check that. Finished the fuel side of things then when checking the 044 pump realised its shagged (from sitting so long no doubt) so had to buy another one - it was a cost I didn't need. Tank out to refit, back in and tested it to 65psi so far. Had one injector o ring weep a bit of fuel so will replace them all before doing a 90psi test (not that is should ever need to get that high). Forgot how freakin loud the 044's are but at 700hp capable its worth the extra fitment aggravation/noise. Ignitors are mounted, coils are mounted. Had heaps of other distractions lately - currently working on a AE111 4agte that I wired up a while back, a AE92 Levin I wired with a Blacktop, and a EP82 that I'm doing a COP and a few other upgrades on. Pictures later Ta ta for now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Nice to see it moving along, look forward to seeing it fired up again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 We need PICS hahaha Well if the 044 makes a lot of noise, it would be less then a walbro i asume ?I think the walbro is allready making too much noise for me, thats why i grabed a jdm jap spec supra fuel pump. Volume on the radio can also be turned up How much BHP does the 4agte have ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 The external 044 sounds like a frigging dentists drill so guessing the intank ones are similar.How loud is a Bosch 044 fuel pump?: http://youtu.be/GNRvS8M_qa4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 044s are definitely louder than Walbros, but its worth it as they're better pumps. Since the tank and cradle are modified to make the pump intank rather than external its pretty noisy as the tanks a big drum haha. Those supra pumps are pretty good - I rate them over Walbros any day and have fitted them to all sorts of cars over the years. We also used to use the bosch pumps from old 3.8ltr Holden Commodores which used to be pretty easy to find at wreckers etc. No stereo The last engine was 285hp at the wheels on 16psi and 98 octane gas. It did run a little bit more boost later on and it woke up a bit (turbo really is too big) but it never made it back on the dyno. There were lots of bottle necks with that last setup and it was a wrecker engine so I'm expecting quite a bit more this time around and more boost and probably E85 at some stage. The loom is taking a while as I'm setting it all up similar to Mil-spec thou obviously not as hardout. No crazy concentric twist or bulkhead adapters but its pretty tidy and all proper shielding and waterproof connectors etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Well i can't reach 400 bhp with my 2E-E engine. So i thought a supra pump will be good enough stock 320bhp. Did not wanted a walbro again after hearing the noise the first time. I believe some pumps are better at sucking where others are better on pushing/pressure/flowing.Is intake better than external pump ? driving arround with mp3 player perhaps What turbo did you use ? how big was it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Yeah those Supra pumps are good - they handle a bit of voltage too so you can step the feed up a few volts to make them flow a bit more. By personal preference I'm not a fan of surge tanks/external pumps unless you have lack of fuel issues. Just seems simpler to fit the best pump possible into the tank then worry about external pumps/surge if its still not enough fuel. I dunno, that's my mentality anyway and seems to work in my scenario. My turbo is a bit of a mongrel - loosely based on a 60 trim T4e (P trim). 360 thrust kitted, competition bearings with different front wheel and milled out T3 exhaust housing. I never really got it on song with the last setup but I've built everything to suit the turbo this time around so here's hoping... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 ohh my god!! lol i want to power the 60 trim super T4 with an 1.3 litre engine That's the same turbo i have laying arround haha. Well i hope 13 bar cylinder pressure and 280 degree camshaft can spool up the super T4...... Otherwise i have to sell it I know the turbo is good enough for 300 a 400 bhp. ( IF it spools ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Haha yeah I don't think it will be very good on a 1300, especially a 2e. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Have cleared the decks a bit with only two projects here now (EP82 and AE92) although a EL31 4efte loom c - onversion is due to turn up shortly which will tie me up for a day or two. Everyone loves photos so here's a couple of the recent cars: AE111 Blacktop 4agte - Wired in a Link G4 Storm, got running and street tune. Owner needs to sort some stuff before bringing it back for a proper tune. Should be a strong setup once is all finished. AE101 Wagon Blacktop 4agte TDO6-20g - Firmware upgrade from Link G3 to G4, setup high/low boost and antilag/cyclic idle switch, tidied up the Link idle control which works brilliantly now, quick street tune check to 12psi, goes well. Most of the way through the wiring on my car now, taking time to get everything they way I want it. Still a few things I'd change given more time but have some pressure on to get it running. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Both cars looks really mint. But blacktop turbo ? Most folks will avoid it because most say they can't handle real boost levels.Are the internals on the blacktop oem ? That TD06 20g is a little bit bigger than the turbo you have on your p7 starlet haha. Is it an Evo turbo ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Both are built ze bottom ends. Will take 20psi plus all day every day. No not quite right, my turbo is larger, remember I said it was loosely based and ive got different wheels/machined covers etc. The T4 frame is possibly comparable to tdo6 thou obviously older technology. The 20g front wheel might be comparable to the stock front wheel. Remember the t4 family has a huge number of variants. Yes the tdo6 is from an evo 9 I believe. Its a reasonably match but drops off boost ever so slightly between gear changes specially 3rd onwards. Will retune when the owner is ready. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clinternational Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Yes your right the T3/T4 familie is very big haha. Oem bottom from the blacktop is crappy haha. But you know that as well What type of ZE bottom did you use ? gen 1 2 or 3 ? because there is a big diffrent between them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 They're 8.9:1 bottom ends in the above cars. Mine is completely different. Had the engine cranking over yesterday to build oil pressure and check a few things. Getting closer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) It runs, its loud, its angry, it drops oil, it smokes the tires. Win! Edited December 5, 2014 by Stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Wwwhhhhhhhhheeeeeeyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 this starlet is epic dude.love the custom work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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