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Patches V - Link G4+ Standalone


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  • 9 months later...

Small update.

Not much happened this year with the car, just became a dad so that's taken up most of my free time.

I have now managed to find an affordable space to work on the car near me which is awesome!

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Finished 95% of the wiring, just got to wire in low current circuits for the injector and ignition relays, run a new oil pressure switch wire to the dash and re connect a wire from the alternator i accidentally chopped and its ready to power up the ecu, set base ignition timing etc...

I also replaced the connectors on my spark plugs to suit the ford coilpack

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  • 5 weeks later...

Progress is slow but it's getting there, putting in a hour here and there when i get the chance.

 

The looms almost finished. Just need to replace some of the wires I accidentally chopped from the original loom then it's ready to tidy up.

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Fitted the wepr distributor cover and made a bracket for my ford coil pack. Found a scrap bit of steel and bent it and cut it to shape, wee bit of paint and it's looking alright actually, it might get replaced in the future but for now it's fine.

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With using the Ford coil pack I also needed a new ignitor/ignition module which had to be fitted to a suitable heat sink so I ordered a piece of aluminium, cut it to size and drilled and tapped threads to mount the ignitor. Also used rivnuts to attach the plate to the firewall. It's crude but should do the trick and keep it out of sight.

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Swapped out the 43k ohm resistor in the tacho with a 1k ohm resistor so I can drive the tacho from the ECU signal. Hopefully did this correctly as the guides I tried to use had no images due to Photobucket changing their policy

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Old

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New

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Hopefully get to spend some more time on the car soon, not far away now

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On 12/11/2017, 06:43:42, jiggaman_16 said:

Plz let us kno how the tacho mod goes. Could you be so kind as to share the info about the resistor swap?

Will do man, hopefully I'll be powering up the ecu for the first time in the next month or so. Will update this thread and message you when I do that

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/14/2017, 3:49:38, Patches said:

Will do man, hopefully I'll be powering up the ecu for the first time in the next month or so. Will update this thread and message you when I do that

Cheers bro. Plz do. I'm powered by a Mitsubishi ECU with a Mitsu cam sensor so i'd b mooooore than happy if i could somehow get my original tacho to wrk

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  • 2 months later...
8 hours ago, jiggaman_16 said:

Any luck with the Tachometer mod?

Nah not yet man but think it might be an issue with my wiring, I hooked the ECU tacho output to the IG- on the clocks but its not working. I went a bit mad chopping loads out of the loom so its possible I cut out a power wire required for the tacho. Could also be I disabled the output on the ECU, I'll be looking to fix this next time I'm working on the car

On 12/02/2018, 11:22:45, TimD said:

Good work!

Cheers man :) still loads of wee jobs left to do but been getting much more time to work on the car recently

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Time is one of my biggest hurdles. 

I could quite easily spend every waking hour working on mine, but work, family, etc have a habit of cutting into it!

A friend of mine has a golf and a DTA, he struggled to get the tacho working. A collection of diodes was the solution! 

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Had a familiar problem with my rpm gauge not working .found out I needed some signal converter once you go aftermarket ecu .unsure if that was the case because I changed to a racepak dash. Also has an issue with fuel display on the racepak and had to purchase a signal converter unit from haltech.

 

Nice clean build , can see alot of hard work in it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So managed to put in loads of hours over the last couple of weeks and got the car back on the road. Below is the engine bay all back together

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Got my mate out his bed at 6:30am on Saturday to help me get this thing mapped on the way for its MOT. Really difficult to road tune with the amount of cars we had on the road but we managed to get most of the cursing load sites up to 3500 rpm. Didn't try mapping into positive boost as I haven't had time to install my Link Knockblock. Think I'll book a couple of hours at a local dyno and finish the tune there.

Getting its MOT

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The car developed a shorting issue somewhere on the haz-horn circuit driving back from the MOT so will need to address that before anything else happens

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On 28/02/2018, 16:19:02, jimmymac101 said:

Bet it was a good feeling getting it back on the road after all this time!

James 

Definitely man! Its such a weird feeling driving it again.

Still got a lot of wee jobs to do

  • Fix the indicators/horn
  • replace fuel filter (no idea how old the current one is)
  • get the tacho working
  • ICV seems to be doing nothing so see if that can be cleaned out/repaired or maybe just remove completely
  • Finish tuning!
  • sort out the issue with the lambda sensor losing power when the heaters get turned on (I'm using the ABS relay and fuse so that'll be playing a part)
  • Reseal the fuel pump cover
  • refit back seats
  • re wire the reverse light switch back in
  • fit JD Tuning bonnet struts which I've had for about 2 years

The list goes on but that's the need to do's

Ordered some new gaskets for my td04 since it looks like it has liquid gasket on at the moment

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 08/03/2018, 15:56:45, Gainzy said:

Smart build this mate I like it

Thanks dude!

Not really had any time to work on this recently, just taking it a drive twice a week and running data logging to look over when I get back to make some minor changes to the curise map.

When doing this i noticed something really weird going on with the fuel pressure. When the boost pressure increases the fuel pressure starts to decrease. My initial thoughts are clogged filter, got a new one waiting to be fitted, or the Tuning Developments fuel pump is garbage. Both could be true so will change the fuel filter first and see how i get on

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49 minutes ago, daniel_g said:

Make replacement wiring to the fuel pump. Seems to be a bit of an issue with regards to voltage drop on standard wiring in a few starlets.

Meant to say the voltage (at least in the ECU logs) remains a constant 14.3v while this is happening. Cheer though man, I'll give that a go if changing the fuel filter isn't fixing the issue.

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On 26/03/2018, 10:34:23, Patches said:

Meant to say the voltage (at least in the ECU logs) remains a constant 14.3v while this is happening. Cheer though man, I'll give that a go if changing the fuel filter isn't fixing the issue.

Doesnt mean that the voltage present at the fuel pump connection is the same healthy voltage that the ECU reads at whatever point it takes a voltage measurement. Wat i once did wen havin issues was to connect a voltmemter to the fuel pump connector just at the fuel pump hatch underneath the backseat & have someone observe it for me while under boost. Worthy a try. 

 

Anyhoo, sounds like the pump is packin in tho ....... :sad:

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On 28/03/2018, 21:45:39, Mike84 said:

Hope you get to the bottom of the issues

Great build 8)

Cheers man! Been really enjoying following your build

On 31/03/2018, 16:54:26, jiggaman_16 said:

Doesnt mean that the voltage present at the fuel pump connection is the same healthy voltage that the ECU reads at whatever point it takes a voltage measurement. Wat i once did wen havin issues was to connect a voltmemter to the fuel pump connector just at the fuel pump hatch underneath the backseat & have someone observe it for me while under boost. Worthy a try. 

 

Anyhoo, sounds like the pump is packin in tho ....... :sad:

Yeah I've got access to the cover so that was going to be my next move after the fuel filter. I think I've found something dodgy which won't be helping the issue, the normal chassis ground for the fuel pump isn't being used and has been replaced with a tek screw at the rear lights! I'll be fixing that and using the proper ground.

 

Got bigger problems to deal with first...

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My first thought was I must have mixed up throttle body hoses but checked those and they are correct.

Then I remembered when i changed the coolant temp sensors over I lost a bit of coolant, I topped up the radiator and filled the overflow bottle up full figuring that would be fine as I never lost that much. Check the overflow bottle which still had a decent amount in it so took the radiator cap off and its lower than the top of the cores :/

In hindsight I should have bled the system, you live and learn.

Oh well, plan of action is

  1. Top up coolant
  2. Change oil and filter with cheap oil
  3. Do a compression test
  4. If the compression is alright then I'll take it for a quick drive, use engine flush and change oil + filter again then keep an eye on my oil and coolant.

If compression is bad I'll be removing the head and taking it for there.

Edited by Patches
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  • 2 weeks later...

The general consensus on mayo in the oil cap on this form is that you have a head gasket failure, after speaking to a mechanic friend he said it was most likely just condensation causing the mayo in my oil cap. This is because the car had been sitting for over a year and also short drives where it wasn't getting up to temp.

Topped up the coolant, oil on the dipstick looks perfect so no drama.

Now just to find some time and nice weather to finish all the wee remaining issues then complete the map.

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