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A guide to fit an aftermarket Quaife LSD

35 posts in this topic

This guide will work for any LSD

Ok so it doesnt seem anyone has made a guide on how to do this, which was rather anoying considering how common it was to do! If a mod wants to sticky this that would be great to help everyone.

At first the thought of taking my gearbox apart put me right off, but then so did the prospect of paying a garage £150 to do it, thats money that could go to my Td04!

Anyway here is a step by step guide

If i was going to rate this job in terms of difficulty like Haynes spanners, i would rate it 3 out of 5, the only difficult part i found was removing two bolts inside when splitting it, other than that its very easy.

Tools required:

12mm Spanner
12mm Socket
Long reach extension
Rubber Mallet

Parts required:

Your replacement LSD, in this case a Quaife Helical
New diff bearings (its advisable to change these while there out, but if yours are not old dont bother) these are about £100 from toyota so not cheap.
Gearbox sealant, (instant gasket)

Ok, so you should have a gearbox like this one, you will obviously need this removed from your car first, like mine below.

Photo-0037.jpg

You will need to start off by removing the 13, 12mm bolts which go around the whole middle of the gearbox.


Photo-0047.jpg

Next you need to rotate the gearbox on its side to show the bell housing, inside will be 3, 12mm bolts, remove these.

Photo-0066.jpg

You will next need to remove the bolt which is an allen key fitting on the side of the box, (mine is out already, its not the allen key one in the pic but the one above and to the right, inside there will be a cylinder (which you can see), spring and ball bearing, the cylinder can be a bit awkward to pull out, i put long nose plyers in the hole and pulled them apart to grip onto it, take these out also. (note i have removed it already and the spring inside has popped out.) If your having trouble getting this out, you can still remove the lid, then try. (dont worry the ball wont drop into the box)

Photo-0060.jpg

Now that these are all out, the gearbox casing will be ready to split, although obvious its VERY IMPORTANT to split the case with the gears sitting on the floor, this way your gears do not spill out everywhere as shown in the pics below), so your diff will be at the top.

Get your rubber mallet (or in my case a hammer with a rag around it) and give a good few sharp taps to some blunt points on the case each side and you will slowly notice that box seal will break and start to come off, its sitting on dowls so you will need to keep tapping this until its ready to come off, dont whack it hard though as its aluminum so very delicate.

Photo-0059.jpg

Your casing will only split and lift off about an inch or so as there are two final 12mm bolts which will need undoing on the inside (they are holding the bottom and top together). If your diff is on the right, these two bolts are upside down on the left side, pic below with the cover off completly shows you where they are. When you take these off, make a mental note of how the metal arm is attached to the gears before you remove it. (it sits in a groove)

Photo-0058.jpg

Your gearbox casing will now lift off with those removed, it should look like this; (dont panic we dont need to touch hardly anything in here :p )

Ok, so your standard diff is on the right hand side and this is where we want to be, dont touch anything else!

Lift the diff out its not attached, just be careful you dont drop it as its heavy, it will also come out with the large gear too, we want this as we will need to remove it from the standard diff to put on our new LSD before we fit it.

Photo-0053.jpg

Your gearbox should now look like this

Photo-0054.jpg

Here is the standard diff removed

Photo-0055.jpg

You will need to undo all the bolts on the diff, (i think there are 8 of them), once these are off you can a split the gear ring off the diff as shown below. I had to put it in a vice to hold the gear, then i used a bar with a rag around it to tap it out.

Photo-0056.jpg

Standard diff with gear removed

Photo-0061-1.jpg

Here is the Quaife LSD i am fitting (note it already has the new diff bearings fitted on each end)

PICT2305.jpg

Get the gear, attach it back onto your new LSD and bolt it all back up the same way you took if off your standard diff. Once its all tight put it back carefully into the gearbox as show below.

Photo-0057.jpg

I spoke directly to Quaife about shimming and they said it will need to be shimmed to get the tollerances correct (shimmed means fitting small metal spacers in so when you put it back together, you have no play between your diff and bearings when they sit in the gearbox, otherwise your gearbox diff could float sideways back and for. I spoke to 3 people who have fitted LSD, and they didnt shim them and they havent had any problems, i still wanted to check anyway to be sure,

NOTE: This next section is a right fiddly basdard, its not difficult but more to do with having a steady hand as the reverse arm will tend to pop off when your trying to tighten it up.

Once its back in you need to put the reverse gear selector that you removed back on into its groove and then put those two bolts back on that you removed earlier. Remember to ensure that the arm sits in the groove correctly and then spend the next 30 mins trying to put those bolts back on, its really fiddly and i dropped the bolt at the bottom of the gearbox a few times trying, so if you have a magnetic probe it would help.

Now that you have got it back on, get your instant gasket sealer and put a coat of it along the rim of the entire gearbox, ensure its fully covered and then lower your gearbox case back down.

Reattach the 13, 12mm bolts, the 3 bolts in the bell housing and dont forget to put back in the ball bearing and spring allen key bolt.

Thats it, well done job done.

Update 25th Nov 2011 - Gearbox is still going strong 12 months on since fitting diff, so no problems to write about yet above. The quaiffe is brilliant, no clunks or horrible noises, you cant tell its in there except it bloody flys around corners now.

I also noticed that there is considerable less torque steer now running 200bhp than using the standard diff, although when you take your foot off the power in a straight line it can be a bit twitchy, but otherwise its bloody amazing :)

There seems to be loads of confusion on the forum over damaging the 5th gear syncro doing this job, just to note, removing the diff this way is impossible to do this as you are splitting the box the other way. (although it is more tricky to get at those two 12mm bolts inside) the damaging the 5th gear myth comes from when you do it the other way around, as you will have all the gears out and you need a puller to get the 5th gear off, which is where damage can occur if your not careful.

Doing it this way is the best in my opinion if you only need to change your diff!! as you dont need a puller either and dont touch any gears while doing it!

Edited by Taggy

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Apparently my guide wasn't transferred when we moved sites so just posted up again to those who needed it.

Craig

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Nice one dude ... is the process the same for a TRD diff too?

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Just done this guide and really did help how ever I struggling to get it all re alined also did the selector arm for reverse keep falling off for u ?

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Just done this guide and really did help how ever I struggling to get it all re alined also did the selector arm for reverse keep falling off for u ?

yeah bud i struggled with the reverse arm as well it took about 20 mins to get it all lined up correctly its a pain as the 2 bolts bolt up from the bottom make sure you have a magnetic stick to hand to recover the bloody bolts when u drop em lol

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yeah bud i struggled with the reverse arm as well it took about 20 mins to get it all lined up correctly its a pain as the 2 bolts bolt up from the bottom make sure you have a magnetic stick to hand to recover the bloody bolts when u drop em lol

Whoop now done what I did is attach it to the housing lose then fiddled with it putting it bk in grove Etc few

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I like that you've done guides like this and the engine rebuilding one. Really helpful information and hopefully puts confidence in people to start doing their own mechanics instead of paying others to do it :). Well done mate.


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cheers lads, not in the starlet scene any more but glad people will get to use them for years to come :)

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cheers



any writeups on the ae111 superstrut LSD fitment to a c52 box?



Phil


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Is it easy to change the input and output shaft front bearings at the same time?


Input shaft rear bearing is harder to get and needs puller to remove 5th gear?


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Hey ...



Another interesting helpful post :thumbsup: Came across it while on Google images !



Although I have mine apart, and am rebuilding things with a new set of gears, so no need to do things that way.



May I make a suggestion ( Excuse me if I'm wrong ) How about using studs instead of bolts while housing is apart ?



Make / use very slightly longer studs ( Loctite in ... Pre-drill studs in cross over pattern for lock-wiring, then lock wire in after, in conjunction with more Loctite on nut of course !


If you can get your hand in there or should I say half hand and fingers ( less chance of damaging thread etc, and much easier the put nut on than a bolt ! )Then I'd assume you can get long nose pliers and then lock wire pliers also ??


Can think of few thing that would pi_s me off more for the bolts to come undone once fitted to car, or cross thread while attempting to do up.



Anyway ... Thanks again


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Im possibly planning trying this myself too but my problem is i cant see the images hahah. comes up saying 3rd party hosting anyone able to help? cheers

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Its a photobucket issue, taggy might be able to sort it.

But dont expect for it to be sorted anytime soon as poeple are trying to figure out the easiest way to sort it out

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