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Sherona (Ep82) Radioactiv Racin - The Culmination


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Hello lads, i'm from Jamaica & i've been following this site earnestly for the past year or so & UKSO has now become a major part of my daily internet travels. I've decided to stop mucking around & share my build thread with you guys. This is all done on a budget so the fancy parts may not come along as speedily as i would wish. I will soon cut the relevant info from http://www.wheelsjamaica.com & post it onto here.



Please take a gander at it http://www.wheelsjamaica.com/wheels_forum/index.php?topic=136101.0 & let me know what you guys think.



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  • 4 weeks later...
Jus gonna copy the more informative posts to here.
30/6/2010
This is my baby. 1991. Came with a 4ef engine (1300cc carb.) with stock intake & exhaust, automatic, stock suspension.
Engine: 5efe,
Intake: CAI
Exhaust: 20V exhaust manifold, 2 to 1 down-pipe, 2 1/4" exhaust with performance muffler (strait thru, no resonator)
Transmission: 5 Speed gearbox
Brakes: Front: Supercharged levin rotors, SV30 calipers (w. custom bracket)
Rear: Starlet Gt backend
Suspension: Front : Unknown struts with sleeveovers & REALLY stiff springs
Rear: KYB Excel G's, RSR lowering springs
Rear upper strut brace
shown test fitting front bumper. Headlamp has been changed
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Works in Progress:
Starlet GT front bumper
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Custom 3 point (triangle) front upper strut brace
Front chassis tie bar
Front sway bar
20v silvertop Individual Throttle Bodies ......runner holes don't line up so i have to make an adapter
pics of 5efe to 20V intake flange
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Future Mods
Rear sway bar
5efhe pistons (9.8:1 CR) & cams
Greddy E-manage
Skimmed head for higher C.R
16/5/2010
made one run @ Ironshore & got beat bout 2/3 way up the track by a turbo starlet.
soon sort out & come bak.
HIDs properly installed, 8000k lookin good
26/5/2010
i was fabricatin a bracket that supports the exhaust. It bolts on rite after the 2-to-1 pipe section & rite before the flex pipe.
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26/5/10 Please excuse the terrible picture quality :fool:
Brakes
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Engine
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Rear Strut Brace
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9/9/2010

do u have any pics of the exhaust manifold cause i wanted to do the same conversion for my 4efe.
do u want a turbo starlet rear bumper to buy? $2000 very neg.
that front bumper look familiar did u buy that from me?
yep, i got that from u. yep, also acquired the rear bumper from u 2. The front bumper has been repaired, just needs to be sprayed while the back bumper needs very minor repairin & to be sprayed also.
will hav 2 take some pics of the exhaust manifold.
The color will remain the same> wen it was stripped out during some previous conversion & i saw the blood red paint in every crevice & corner inside (very clean paintwork underneath the carpet), i immediately decided it was gonna stay in that color.
20/12/2010
loping idle was found to be a T.P.S problem. One of the wires was actually broken at a connector. Fixed & proper now.
Back engine mount needed to be changed. Used windshield sealant to solidify the mount, installed it & checked it yesterday, the blinkin thing basically press down & push out the sealant.
:-\
The flange at the bottom of the headers was actually warped from the welding that took place bout a year & a half ago. Didnt realize this & continually changed the gasket that kept on blowin.
Took it to a machine shop, took it off, the man the sort it out, made a new gasket from exhaust gasket material, put in 2 new exhaust pipe ringsexhaust_spiral_lg-500x500.jpg, good 2 go after that.
Went 2 check Damian in Mandeville 2 repair my front suspension as they were DEAD. Some extra work was required one of them & he sorted it out 4 me. The two man them a the boss [wave] [wave] [wave]Them cool & willin fi work with you without chargin u an arm & a leg.
The inserts were changed & everything sorted out, the new springs i put on were shorter than the rest but due to the weather conditions, coudnt adjust them at the time.
Had to drive bak 2 town with the car ridin on the bump stops... :-\ :-\ :-\ Much better than before but not very nice
Jack up the car yesterday to raise the front of the car. The amount of threads from the bottom of the threaded sleeve was 23, raised it to 34 (which basically means the bottom of the springs are now sittin 11 threads higher than they were before. Put the tyres back on & lowered the car & saw that it wasn't enuff as i would have little or no shock travel.
Raised the car again, adjusted the height to 40 threads, put back on the tyres, checked again & saw that i had bout 1.5 iinches shock travel. Front of the car was definitely higher than before but better to have good ride With a higher vehicle height that low slung look & ridin like crap.
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Brakes work like a charm SV30 Camry calipers + Supercharged Levin rotors = [karate]
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Rainy season = dirty car [noclue]
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Drove the car this mornin & feels much better [applause] [bike]
Next on the list.
1) Have the front sway bar tooooo long now, bought the bushings & the other rubbers, just need to fabricate the brackets or straps to cradle the bushings that hold the bar.
2) Have a resonator 2 install (need to choose between 2, inlet diameter of both seem smaller than my pipin tho...... [worried]
3) Need to complete fabrication of a exhaust hanger
4) Lot of other things
20/12/2010
need 2 lowering springs (preferably new) 4 the back of the car to use with the KYBs. Noticed that the rear suspension of the car was gettin extra soft. Took off the assembly, checked the struts & they were ok. Did some research on RS*R lowering springs & found that they were ridiculously soft. Additional reason why i need a pair
13/01/2010
changed left control arm rear bushing, accidentally turned the washer (the one used to knock off the metal bushing) upside down, car squeaked like a rotten door hinge crying for grease. Thought a myriad of things was happening, thought the control arm shaft was spinning in the bushing sleeve, thought the clamp bolts were cross-threaded in the nuts & moving up & down. Was under the car till bout 10 p.m one nite.
Time for work in progress update
WIP 1_______Intake manifold
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just a few holes left to be filled out & the whole thing cleaned up ready for the road. Due to warping, the flange for the cylinder head will need to be faced off, that's all good due to the thickness of the flange but due to the other flange being pretty thin, that's another story :-\.
Due to the design of the 5E cylinder head, the injectors are mounted in the head itself. Due to the desing of the 4AGE 20V, the injectors are mounted in the throttle body assembly, so technically i have the option of using either the 5e injectors or the 4AGE injectors [nod]
17/1/2011
WIP 2_________Front sway bar
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only got one of the links with the bar (at 1 grand, cant really complain, [wave] Autoband Used PArts [wave]
Had the other one fabricated at work
bought the clamp bushings & the link rubbers
Acquired one clamp, just need to fabricate the other & hopefully i'll be handlin like i'm on rails
26/5/2011
random pic. 1JZ E30 in the background. Xcuse the towels
9/9/2011
Been tooooooo long, i know ::)
Bout 6 weeks ago, car started to grit to change gear while driving on night, had to fight it to go in & limped home
Checked the clutch fluid & saw that it was black. Due to previous experience, i immediately knew that the seals in the clutch master cylinder were gone.
Got the seal kit, the seal looked slightly different but it was similar for the most part. Pulled it down (that >:( 12 nut hard to reach without the correct tool is a shame), changed the seal, put it back up, pour in the clutch fluid only 2 realise that all the fluid leaked out at the back of the cylinder. Got mad, lock it up & lef it
Got a used genuine clutch master cylinder, cleaned it up, installed it, pour in fluid & bleed. The system bled ok enuh, air come out until only fresh brake fluid comin outa the nipple, but the blinkin pedal only drops bout a 3/4" or so. And still, the car wont go in gear. When the engine is started, the gear stick wont go into the gear position (like it's locked out of all gears). When the engine is off, the gear stick feel like it goes in, but when the car start, it basically a jump forward & grindin showin that it is actually not in gear, only partway or sumthing.
Due to couple diagnoses', i figured that the pressure plate is gone. Been real lazy to pull down the car since
Got the motivation 2 do it today, removed the battery, intake, old fan circuit among other things & realized a list of niggly things that need to be done
1 - Breather filter (bout $400 or so fi one of these, rite?)
2 - Redo fan circuit (i'm a bit of a wire tuck fan so imma gonna do it rite)
3 - change dust boot 33531-12020) on the part of the gearbox that the shifter cables connect to (dust boot: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1991_TOYOTA_STARLET_EP82-AGMQY_3307.html)
4 - Connect fan circuit
5 - Buy license plate bulbs
Edited by jiggaman_16
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28/2/12

where you get them coilovers..?? how do they ride..??
Actually got the front struts from a friend with the sleeveover sleeves already welded on. One of the springs broke on me one time, got another set & replaced them. One thing tho, bcuz a the generic springs, the spring rate wrong so the front rides a bit harsh. The back ones are KYB GR2 with R*SR lowering springs, the back is a bit soft tho but its OK.
Bcuz of the stiffness of the front, the car corners like a fool tho, can chuck her roun any corner.
1/3/2012
Car was down for a good while bcuz of a number of things. Lazy & money.
She was not drivin from late July till bout mid October last year. Wen money available, lazy kick in & the other way roun.
Car was not going into gear at all. Thought the clutch master cylinder was the problem as it had failed before.
Bought a rebuild kit 4 it, rebuilt it but 4 some reason, this one didnt work. (The current one was rebuilt about 2 -3 years ago anyway & was actually still in service by the way)
Bought a used one, installed & tested but no success.
Got some advice & concluded that the box needed to be pulled.
Car was jacked up & pulled down - disconnected everything from the gear box & took it out. This is a one man job so tekkin it out wasnt so hard.
When the box was down & the pressure plate removed, the springs & rivets from the clutch literally fell out on the ground. The clutch totally shell out.
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Checked the flywheel & it was ok.
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Bought a Aisin clutch (the one with the rubber instead of springs) and a pressure plate (dont remember what brand)
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Changed the rear crankshaft seal and throw-out bearing at the same time.
Used some degreaser & toothbrush to clean up the gearbox as the leaking rear seal made everything mucky
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Made sure to grease the pivot point on the clutch fork when installing
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Never knew i could do all this on my own but sometimes a just common sense, a couple phone calls & a few google searches
Installed the clutch & pressure plate using my ingenious & brilliantly executed [kick] [kick] [kick] [kick] [kick] [kick] clutch tool, which worked perfectly.
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Sometimes u get some advice & think that u can do something urself but try as u may, it naw go work. (must work solo nex time tho : :) )
Installing the gearbox was no easy feat as a first timer, it was supposed to be; get the bottom of the bell housing gearbox on the jack, jack it up to the right height while balancing the tail & rock the input shaft in, catch the bolts.
No such luck, jacked it up & ting but the spline of the input shaft would not go into the clutch center. Try till kingdom come (while slowly rotating the C.V joint housing to get the spline to mesh)
Gave up, took off the clutch and realized that the diameter of the hole in the clutch spline center was too small for the input shaft. Swear seh mi get the wrong ting, mi carry it back but was assured that it was correct.
Carry it home check again & realized that just like wen some things new & have a tight fit (casting defects & all), i just sanded down the shaft, put a little grease on the tip of the shaft & encouraged it with some help from a bredrin.
Trust me, some things u need assistance with, especially for the first time.
Fit up the gearbox, catch back everything & all good.
One thing to note, wen u have an older car & u mek it sit down for a long time, is a hell of a thing fi clean up & get everything working again.
While the car was down, i decided to change all front end parts. One ball joint was worn, two tie rod ends done fi the most part, one wheel bearings done, basically 2 rack ends done (these lasted very long on the car as the sleeveovers dont allow much suspension travel)
Changed the bearings at work and cleaned up the hubs. -changed the rack ends which i had put down for about 4 year now : :), changed ball joints & tie riod ends.
Tested the car & it all good.
Didnt change a CV joint boot earlier so i decided to sort them out, disassembled again & took out the left axle, changed the inner boot (weh u haffi tek off the CV joint itself), reassembled & ok.
Took the car 2 alignment stand, aligned it, check & ok.
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28/2/12
Heard that Jamwest drag meet was comin up February month end so i decided that i'm gonna c wat can gwaan for Sherona.
Did some research & mentally prepared for rthe event.
One thing i can GENUINELY say, 'a dragstrip humbles u'. A man mite feel seh him car a the fastest thing a road but go pon a dragstrip & it tun u inna BABY.
The only prep made before was to change the fuel filter & hoses as well as change the gear oil. I decided to try the poor man race gas method of using mothballs. Bought a gallon of 90 & soaked some mothballs from Friday nite.
Travelled to Mobay Saturday nite & mek sure pressure Sherona fi get her in the race mood. [2thumbsup]
Roll out early Sunday mornin, had approximately bout quarter tank to go 2 West which is the right amount weight-wise. Was supposed to get a half bucket of race gas but fell thru in the early mornin
Decided that ok, i'm gonna run the ghetto race gas. Poured in from Mobay to make the gas soak through the system. Travelled to West, signed up like a perfect noob & started the journey.
28/2/2012
This is the point where all the mental racing, surfing the net lookin at supercars, reading those top notch, top dollar builds, and walkin & making spooling sounds comes to reality.
Removed passenger & back seat, spare tyre, jack & all, took off airfilter, took out headlamp and seh, yeh a me this. Even decide fi go hard & removed the condensor & power steering belt. (The other remaining belt drives the water pump & alternator)
Mi always assume Sherona fi b a 15 sec car but my crew tell me seh nah sah, settle fi 16. In my mind, i was sayin, jus watch out for the 15 sec suprise.
Rolled up to scrutineering, got her passed & ok, rolled into the cage & ok
Heart beating & feet jittery, i rolled up to the start line. At least 11 years of internet surfing & going to Jamwest & Vernam kinda prepares u 4 this the pre staging & staging process. (Even made up my mind at one point fi stop go race until i started to compete)
Did a baby burnout & lined up on the line with a boosted sunny. Did as mental preparation tells me (& a likkle Ironshore) and get up offa the line. Acrtually start pull lef the sunny but instantly deduced that something wrong with it.
Thing is, wen u race for t6he first time, no matter how slow your car is, the quarter mile seems like the shortest thing ever. Way how the run seemd short, I was wonderin if by some miracle, mi hyappen fi run 13 or 14 seconds. [rofl] [rofl] [rofl]
returned & saw the timeslip & mi heart drop a ground. 16.749 secs :( :( :( :( [reallysad] [reallysad] [reallysad] [sick] [sick] [sick] :'( :'( :'( [noclue] [noclue] [noclue]
No sah, a this mi a prepare for from over 11 years now since me start love car
Qualifying still open so mi seh alrite, mi done prepare fi jus come have fun no matta wat so run again
Lined up again, run again, 16.5, well, that nuh so bad, at least mi a improve.
Run again, 16.4, [crazy] [crazy] [crazy], nuh feel so bad after all, probably can go after a trophy [2thumbsup] [2thumbsup] [2thumbsup]
Went back to the pits as qualifying was closing. The Av gas happened to come thru at this point, although in a lesser quantity. So mi seh alrite, go hard time now.
1 gallon Av gas to a nearly empty tank (light weight, tun up timing & drop tyre pressure, mad a road now.
Interesting fact, 30 lbs of air was in the tyres before, after making the qualifying runs, the pressure was found to be 45 psi [blackeye] [blackeye] [blackeye] (Heat causes air pressure to increase [ponder] [ponder] [ponder])
Dropped it to approximately 24 psi & ok.
Went to drivers meeting & realized that 16 class had only 5 persons so mi automatically qualify.
Rolled roun in the line to start eliminations. Funny enuff, just by moving Sherona from the pits to the start area, i coulda easily feel the difference in the car as it rev up faster & feel peppier, just by moving at that low speed.
Wen in the line, i dropped the tyre pressure to approximately 20 psi as i found wheelspin 2 b an issue.
Got a bye run first so mi tek easy & go down the track.
Realized i had another bye run as 2 of the guys had dropped out leavin me, the 1JZ bus and an older Accord.
After makin the bye run, mi seh no sah, mi nuh haffi pet the car cuz mi nuh hav nothin fi bruk as such plus i made a mod (Av gas, timing & tyre pressure) which definitely seemed to make a difference. So on the next bye run (lucky me [kick]), i decided to go hard, launch 7 everything. Staged, slept on the line & launched HARD. Got some good wheelspin, punch all the way & got 16.24 [wave] [wave] [wave]
16 second class a mine [applause] [applause] [applause]
the bus ran the Accord but broke out, so i had the Accord to deal wid. Lucky me cuz me kno the bus have the ability fi mash mi up [stretcher]
Tyre pressure was reduced a likkle more by the way
Lined up fi the finals with the Accord, mek up mi mind seh yow, mi a go kill da bredda ya
Remembered some advice from a fellow racer about launching & set fi the green lite
Launched even harder this time since the tyre pressure was reduced
The way how mi move off, i was lookin for the red light all the way till i passed it (0.5 reaction time by the way [wave])
Jump leff the Accord and go hard all the way to the line.
16 sec class winner first time officially racin.
Pics later
2/3/2012

Jamwest pics
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AFC, Acoustic intake & maybe some exhaust work next & dip into 15's. Neva Satisfyed sound a likkle bit 2 exclusive 4 me so i mite just wait on the followin meet
Yeah, it was a very personally rewarding event. Thought i would do better but wen mi really pree it, a stock 100 hp & 90 lb/ft torque engine in a shell weighing about 860 kg shell not gonna really be impressive. Full intake & exhaust, lightened plus a few other things does make it a really fun car to drive, cant wait to feel wat real power feels like tho but until then, its all about havin fun.
11/3/2012

link=topic=136101.msg2785097#msg2785097 date=1331464783]
Congrats on your achievement [notworthy] ..........me read your jamwest story and felt like a movie me a watch [dwl]
by the way what time did you run in the finals?
Edited by jiggaman_16
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Fast forward to the future. Anyone in need of a good read, jus check the link in the first post.



Current spec is as follows:



Engine:



5efe


Ebay custom B-series ramhorn manifold


MHI TD04HL-15T


Evo X intercooler (custom inlet)


Ebay wastegate (with screamer) & BOV


Ebay fuel rail adaptor


Sard FPR


Ebay catch tank (custom)


Ebay oil filter sandwich plate adapter & 7 row oil cooler with custom lines & fittings


Full 3" exhaust (downpipe to muffler inlet)





Suspension & handling



Starlet GT sway bar


Custom rear strut brace


Front upper 3 point (triangle) strut brace & lower chassis brace (undecided between 2 & 4 point) in the making


KYB Excel G with Tein lowering springs (rear), knackered sleeveover struts with tough generic springs up front (to be changed)


Front: SV40 brake calipers with AE101 rotors, Rear: GT disc backend




Drivetrain



5 speed LSD gearbox (from 4AGE 20V BT), AISIN clutch & PP



Electronics



Greddy Emanage Blue


4EFTE ECU


Apexi turbo timer (to be installed)


AEM wideband


Dragon Racing :sorry: Oil temp, oil pressure & boost gauges



Interior



GT seats to be wrapped & installed & interior to be upholstered


Ebay deep dish steering wheel



Body



GT front & rear bumpers, GT trunklid (boot)


custom plexiglass lens foglamps


8000K headlamps & 10000K foglamps

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  • 2 weeks later...
Found out the cause of my extra oil leak (& even more increased oil consumption) since lately. Apparently the cam plug wasnt seated properly so when the engine is running, oil would just easily pass it.


Oil pump removed, gonna change both seals, crank seal, reseal the crankcase & properly seat the cam plug. Due to oil being EVERYWHERE, its hard to pinpoint where xactly was leakin but its gonna b sorted this time around.


Ordered one of these


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as i believe a cupholder is a vital part of being comfortable in one's car.


Currently in the process of removin the 12V outlet & coin tray assembly from location 1 to 2 (below)


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Then the cupholder / storage tray will be installed into Location 1.


Also a 4 fuse block


$_57.JPG will be installed (hidden) in the engine bay. This will supply the radiator fan, headlamps HID & Foglamps HID ballasts

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  • 2 months later...

The car has been started after a lot of searching around to find the correct oil pump (no o-ring groove on the pump, distributor type). Neating up of wiring under dash & engine bay has been done, installation of both fuse blocks & a couple relays. Should b out of the garage by tomorrow...


Edited by jiggaman_16
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Man being surrounded by ep82s is such a cool thing.love the build.so I take it u scrapped the throttle bodies idea ?

yeah, that one was thrown out a long time ago. But wen lookin back, i realized wat i did wrong. If i had did some more research, i would've realized that everybody doin ITB conversions normally use the silicone hoses (muuuuuch easier) to do the adaptation. Silly me was tryin to use a full metal adaptor from 5e flange to 20Vflange. Thats wat took a lot out of me so the idea was scrapped.

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The silicone adapters only work well when used with motorbike itbs/carbs because they mount to the bike engines similarly. The 20v setyp you planned to run had a flat flange so you had no choice. I initially thought you had scrapped it due to room. The 20v itbs are huge compared to my mikunis, firewall/clutch cylindrr clearence may have been tight

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Power steering pump washers changed....no leak seen :thumbsup:


Coolant temp. switch (fan switch) changed....now operates wen it should instead of all the time :thumbsup:

*** To test the fan switch (those that are closed when cold or open when hot) using a multimeter, the terminal should be continuous to ground when the engine is cold (or if testing in hand, the connector terminal should be continuous to the sensor tip)


Strut brace 80% tig welded :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo::clapping::clapping::clapping::db: best mod i did in a while...looks bangin in the engine bay....pics 2morro

Edited by jiggaman_16
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Aiming for the December drag meet
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No foolin around this time. Haven't been competitive since 28/6/13. Now that most of the bugs are being wrkd out, once she's healthy, i'm goin for it. Hopin for a low 14 timeslip. Am i being too ambitious here? :sad:
Performance spec list
Engine:
1st gen 5efe
Shaved 5efe pistons
ACIS cams
Mitsubishi Td04HL-15T
Custom tubular exhaust manifold
Full 3" exhaust from downpipe to muffler inlet (one flex in the middle)
2.25" intercooler piping
Evo X intercooler (custom)
Airtrek R 440CC injectors
Airtrek R fuel pump
SARD fuel pressure regulator
Civic half radiator
Ebay 38mm wastegate & 50mm BOV
Ebay catch can (custom)
Ebay 9 row oil cooler
Ebay oil filter adaptor
Ebay 14" slim radiator fan
Ebay muffler (3" in, 4.5" out)

Transmission
4AGE 5 speed LSD Box
Suspension & rolling stock
Tein S-Tech springs & KYB Excel-G struts (fronts are goin on by the end of the day)
SV40 calipers with AE101 rotors
Starlet GT disc rear-end
GT Starlet sway bar
Custom rear upper strut brace
80% complete upper front 3-point (triangle) strut brace
Maxxis MaZ-1 195/50/15 rubber
Interior
Ebay deep dish steering wheel
Starlet GT front seats (soon to be in)
Electronics
Dragon :sad: boost, oil temp, oil pressure gauges (with sensors)
AEM wideband
Greddy E-Manage
Edited by jiggaman_16
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