morgey Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Cheers man, but its not for sale yet as I've onky just sorted it all out haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Small update.Was looking at replacement shocks and a set of lowering springs for it and was pretty much set on some kyb ultra Sr shocks with some eibach pro springs. Was going to be about £500 for a pretty decent setup but something else came up instead.Got offered these for £450 posted and couldnt say no tbh hahaLess than year old BC's main bodies are spotless, couple of small flakes on 1 or 2 of the springs but otherwise like new. Will be stripping them down, cleaning and greasing for protection. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Right so this weekend i came to this. Coilies were given a good wash, then coated in Wd to disperse any water and left to dry. Then removed the main body to clear the threads of any grit and dirt, then given a fine coat of grease before being reassembled. I also took the opportunity to raise them up 10mm from how they were previously set.Then set about the front, off with the old... these were factory fresh with 115k on them lolOn with the newWell the fronts went fine as they were just bolt off bolt on along with the brake line.The rear on the other hand decided to put up a fight. Baring in mind the shocks had both been replaced 1 and 2 years previous. The droplinks bolt to the shock which as youd expect locked up as you loosen them off so just spin and the brake lines go through a bracket on the old shock so needs splitting! Ns eventually gave up its fight and both droplink and brake line were removed, OS on the otherhand broke a brake pipe spanner so resorted to cutting the bracket and the droplink i just broke and left it to Sts to replace when they did the alignment haha.anyway back on its wheels on sunday. And after a day of driving around after its visit to Sts. Im genuinely surprised at how well it rides on bc's, i have them on the EP and thats not harsh but you feel the bumps where as the corolla rides over them like its on some slightly uprated shocks even with the dampening set harder than the EP. Will probably get a slightly better alignment done at some point as sts arent great but its better than nothing. Next up brakes! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GlanzaJim Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I bloody love this car!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Cheers dude. I hate to say it but it is a much better car than the starlet, im hoping my next revisions to that fix that and make it drive something more like this, albeit a bit more raw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 I never did show what was up with the gearbox on this before i rebuilt it. Basically it had a really bad 2nd gear crunch. Turns out it wasnt a worn synchro as such...More of a broken one, there was remains of it in the oil channel up the output shaft and into bearing outlets so made sure that it was all clear and also replaced the bearings that were fed by it incase they were worn.I spent a fair bit on the box and more than i actually needed to bit it feels like new now so im happy i spent it now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flynn Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Amazing work morgey man Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Amazing work morgey manCheers man, been well worth it, just making it into the car it should have been!I've got a new genuine o2 sensor to fit soon as its developed as flat spot around 3.5k which is fairly common on the 20v's so if that fixes it then i will be doing the same on the starlet as that also has the same issue. If its not that then I've a bit of problem solving to do! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Pretty awesome dude! Maybe a touch more low on the rear? I've had similar issues wiring up a few cars in the past, can cause some serious head scratching. Well done getting it all sorted. All guages working etc?Worst I ever had was a Altezza conversion - try putting anything other than a stock motor into one - CAN systems can be a nightmare till you get your heard around it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Pretty awesome dude! Maybe a touch more low on the rear? I've had similar issues wiring up a few cars in the past, can cause some serious head scratching. Well done getting it all sorted. All guages working etc?Worst I ever had was a Altezza conversion - try putting anything other than a stock motor into one - CAN systems can be a nightmare till you get your heard around it.Cheer man Tbh its probably too low, the exhaust catches everywhere as it is, i need to get an extra hanger added to hopefully fix that issue but i might change up to 16's?The wiring was an absolute nightmare on this because its a complete bodge car from toyota. It was a test mule for the 1.4 in the uk so theres 2 different ecus, 2 or 3 different wiring looms and no pinouts anywhere online, so it was a case of try and see. The obd diag system was a bit of a faff but a lot of it still lays in the dash loom but doesnt connect to anything as the 20v ecu doesnt have any use for half of it. Like wise with the trip comp, my average mpg and current mpg have gone completely which i knew was going to happen but i do still have my average speed lolStill got the phantom rev signal to sort out but neither me or my mate have had a chance to look at it, other than that though it all works! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Never too low! Fix that exhaust then get the rear down to match the front - win! Haha Alot of the wiring with some time you can trace to determine what it is but its very time consuming. If you need a hand with the tacho let me know - was it COP before? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 It actually does sit pretty level now its settled that 1st pic was just after dropping it down after fitting it all, plus The exhaust always has been low on this but this is now stupid. It scrapes down my lane with just me in it haha.Yes funnily enough it was COP, now its getting its signal from the ignitor, iirc it goes through a connector in the car and that had a splitter built in so it might be getting a false signal though that. What ever it is it seems to do it either at WOT or only in the higher RPM range? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 So it only works at random times? Is it reading the correct rpm when it does work? Or is it half the actual rpm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 it works 100% of the time and reads pretty accurate for the best part. But it fluctuates at higher rpms, jumps up and down by a few 100rpm or so like its getting interference from something.If you look at the 2nd half of the video at the top of this page just as i click into 4th you can see the revs hunting abit around 7k. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Ah that will be due to the primary resistor not quite being the right size. I can tell you how to work it all out if you need - I think I detailed it once on here before. Happy to email to you if you want Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Ahh right well now i know what the issue is at gives me a good idea of what to look at. is it all done on the dial circuitry?I still have the bzr cluster floating about so if thats the case i should be able to cross reference that to my current ones With any luck Cheers stu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stu Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Yeah its inside the gauge cluster - the tacho assembly usually comes out with a couple of screws (don't take the tacho needle off) and the primary resistor is the first one on the board from where the IG- signal enters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Update.... Figured i needed new brakes since im running a heavier more powerful engine so step in more spares from by BZR. Levin twinpots! Spoke to a ishaq about making a kit to run the fullsize 275mm brakes as normally you have to run 260mm brakes when using the twinpots but you can use celica carriers to bump up the caliper height to house 275mm levin discs. So thats what i did. Now running them with some fresh uniroyal rainsport 3s and compared to my old brakes they are another level. However i would say the old toyos i had seemed to have grip under braking but that might be due to these just biting much harder.Right so pictures. Stock 256mm behind speedlinesThe old disks. 2.5 year old mintex oem replacements.And the same with the old pads. (I did an emergency stop on these the day before!)And the new (replacements)Now running oem toyota levin bzr superstrut discs and twinpot calipers with celica st202 carriers and ebc yellow stuff pads. Also how loud are uniroyal tyres!? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 so your running 277mm now ??? good to see they clear 15 wel :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Yup theres no reason this wouldnt work for starlets either you'd still run the 4mm spacer under the disc but wouldnt need to get the disc machined Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kbond Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 So the st202 carriers are the same just a bit further out?Been looking for a way to get bigger discs on my twin potsI am using astra discs though so would I have to get levin discs or bigger astra ones?Car looks awesome though proper sleeper Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Yeah thats exactly it. Joel_ep91 should be trying it out pretty soon. The levin discs are the right size but need the spacer. Im not sure if the astra discs are machined down to 256mm or if they come as that factory but if they come in at 275mm they should be a bolt on disc with this setup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 ^^^^ kbond same disks 2188 ( astra ) only cut down 3mm instead of 20mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 Service time soon, 100 miles short of 5000 since the engine was fitted. Not overly fond of the ebc pads though, have random spats of fading after a small amount of hot driving and a small cooling period and they decide to not grip at all occasionally. Also got my aircon all connected up with a new line and had it gassed so nice cold air in the cabin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgey Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Well i got this last week, Thought it would be rude not to have it really, plus its jdm scene point which is always a win 👍Everybody loves Tom's stuff Got it fitted saturday morning which was a bit of a chore as the oem brace goes to the bulk head but because my car was poverty spec it didnt have captive nuts so had to whip the scuttle panel off to undo the nut and bolts.Havent really driven it in anger yet but id imagine its made a bit of difference as the bulkhead has a fair bit of flex in it so doubt the old brace was doing much lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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