Shane 08 Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 my engine has lost compression on cylinder 2 suspected ring or piston failure.how much am I looking to rebuild the engine pistons.rings ect I've never done this before so no clue. havent a big budget so cant forge it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted August 16, 2014 Share Posted August 16, 2014 Full Engine gasket kit geniuneCam belt kitWater pumpOil pumpPiston ringsACL bearing kitHead skimmedValves reseatedBlock honedMight have missed a few bits here but this is what your looking at mate, this is what I did after oil pump fail on mine. My pistons were still like new and only 6 months old so they were fine 👍All this was around £600 but you might aswell do it while engine is out then you got a mint engine againThen on top of this you have your running in oil, coolant fluid, gear box oil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 another engine bites the dust, lol. i have just had machine work done to mine ( rebore, block deck, reground crank, drilled fly for 5e build, pistons and rods machined and oil filter housing drilled) for £365. but its the bits afterwards that cost money. getting 2nd hand pistons in my eyes are a waste of time, because they are getting old and wont be long before you are back to square 1. when you are going to the hassle of doing a rebuild, just go and get a set of forged pistons and rods, that way the engine (shouldnt) need touching again. the money i hav wasted on rebuilding stock engines i could of built 2 forged motors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shane 08 Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 I havent the budget for foged stuff and need car on road asap for work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 It won't be done in a few days mate time you order parts etc and get them fitted, this is going to get expensive with labour costs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
_shaun_ Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 machine shops also appear to work in a different time system to us aswell. while they say 2-3 days that generally means 2-3weeks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) ^^^ ha ha sooo tru that is also there is nothing wrong with using in tolerance used pistons my daily engine is rebuild with used 4efte pistons that did 280.000km or 180.ooo miles and is working great pistons dont wear out easy they could go for 500.000km even more just measure the rinng and scirts Edited August 17, 2014 by 5e colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I havent the budget for foged stuff and need car on road asap for work if you dont have a budget to forge, then why waste time and money on an engine thats gonna go pop again? you might get lucky with a 2nd hand set of pistons and they last thousands of miles, or they mite only last 1000 miles. you need to be looking for an engine to drop in, NOT to be rebuilding 1. the last engine i built cost me nearly a grand bought, machined and fitted, with fluids and gaskets. waste of bloody time for it to last 540 odd miles..... not sure if it was the map or piston failure, but it went POP!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikey4410 Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 I get what your saying about if your gonna do it do it properly (forge it) etc but if somebody hasnt got the moneys to do it then I get that. These starlets are costly to own at the best of times and i get that most people dont have a grand to forge. Its hugely cheaper to build an engine useself as people are aware.thats what I did in 2010. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 If you want it on the road asap get a 4EFE engine for 100 quid max and strap the turbo stuff to it. Turn the boost down, get the fueling checked and take it easy. Then save for forged stuff and do it properly.If youre gonna do a full rebuild you may aswell pay the extra few hundred and add forged rods & pistons imo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 If you want it on the road asap get a 4EFE engine for 100 quid max and strap the turbo stuff to it. Turn the boost down, get the fueling checked and take it easy. Then save for forged stuff and do it properly.If youre gonna do a full rebuild you may aswell pay the extra few hundred and add forged rods & pistons imo.there is this option, 4efe is a cheap alternative, but power will be down, and dont be tempted to turn it up. will get you out of a fix for next to nothing. saving money for a proper rebuild. i have found that 9 times out of 10, if your into the starlets, forging will be on the cards anyway. down time on rebuilding an engine is always crap unless you have the new engine to drop straight in. mine was off the road for over a year with all the messing about i had with dud engines and then the time and money for the first engine i rebuilt. in the last 3 years mine has been off the road for nearly 2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shane 08 Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Don't want to go 4efe I want the proper engine was going to buy another full engine but that might pop next day. I may end up breaking the car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 if you keep the boost low and drive it sensible then the life of it might be expanded, but be shure you can get compression checked before you buy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 Don't want to go 4efe I want the proper engine was going to buy another full engine but that might pop next day. I may end up breaking the car buy the 4efe and fit the crank in your 4efte !!!! then buy a piston rod from on ere and a new set off bearings with an headgasket and your car will be back on the road for 200£ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shane 08 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 what should compression be Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 between 140 to 180 psi no more then 15% diference on a cylinder Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 my mates starlet turbo ep82 lost compression in number 3 cylinder, when we removed the piston out it fell apart in his hand ! was running fine on stock boost for years until he decided to up the boost, seems pretty common the standard internals can only handle a bit more boost for a short while >? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rwdrev Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) summit like this? i have a box load of these, tho i think i have 1 thats broke out both top and middle ringland, infact i think it is this 1. cant remember, Edited August 18, 2014 by rwdrev Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlersport Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 yeh, just like that !!! after that i never really bothered wih the stock 1.3 4efte, standard boost they will last a lifetime, crank the boost up and this sis the result Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aaddzz123 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 If you don't have much money to spare and or a tight deadline to have it done then just get a used replacement 4efte and drop it straight in... In an ideal world we could all afford a forged lump and machine shops would do it in a realistic turn over of an engine a day but unfortunately metal is over priced and so is labour for putting them together. On the other hand a 4efe lump isn't going to last very long imo not to mention you'll have to change the wiring loom and ecu etc? I personally would replace the engine and consider selling the old one to make some money back or keep it to rebuild it later either with standard parts or forged bits when time isn't such an issue and you have time to learn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
daniel_g Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 If you don't have much money to spare and or a tight deadline to have it done then just get a used replacement 4efte and drop it straight in... In an ideal world we could all afford a forged lump and machine shops would do it in a realistic turn over of an engine a day but unfortunately metal is over priced and so is labour for putting them together. On the other hand a 4efe lump isn't going to last very long imo not to mention you'll have to change the wiring loom and ecu etc? I personally would replace the engine and consider selling the old one to make some money back or keep it to rebuild it later either with standard parts or forged bits when time isn't such an issue and you have time to learn.Getting a used FTE is a stab in the dark at best, and they arent cheap imo. 400 - 500 quid for a what, 17 year old engine something like that. And dropping in a 4EFE running it a LOW boost can be done easily and has been done by many and worked well. I know its not ideal for some people but will dig you out a hole and get you by for a few months. And no you dont need to swap looms or ecu etc. All you swap over is the bare engine into the car. Use all FTE thermo housing, inlet, oil filter housing etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aaddzz123 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Getting a used FTE is a stab in the dark at best, and they arent cheap imo. 400 - 500 quid for a what, 17 year old engine something like that. And dropping in a 4EFE running it a LOW boost can be done easily and has been done by many and worked well. I know its not ideal for some people but will dig you out a hole and get you by for a few months. And no you dont need to swap looms or ecu etc. All you swap over is the bare engine into the car. Use all FTE thermo housing, inlet, oil filter housing etc.I know you're a fan of the fe . But it makes no sense to me to buy one and spend the time swapping everything over to fit a weaker less capable engine than the standard one, just to get you by for a few weeks. He's only going to have to take it out again when he gets an fte and then he'll be left with an fe after doing all the work again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 I know you're a fan of the fe . But it makes no sense to me to buy one and spend the time swapping everything over to fit a weaker less capable engine than the standard one, just to get you by for a few weeks. He's only going to have to take it out again when he gets an fte and then he'll be left with an fe after doing all the work again. dude what do ya think is so special about the fte ????? 4efe is not week you do know they are the same basic block rite that week 4efe crank will hold 400 + bhp also my turbo ( 4efe ) is doing wel after almost 2 years of hard abuse seen ct9 and vf10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aaddzz123 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 dude what do ya think is so special about the fte ????? 4efe is not week you do know they are the same basic block rite that week 4efe crank will hold 400 + bhpalso my turbo ( 4efe ) is doing wel after almost 2 years of hard abuse seen ct9 and vf10Calm down mate lol. Overall as a standard engine the fe is weaker. The compression is higher and the valve sprigs can't hold much boost so unless you build a hybrid it doesn't make any sense to me and if he had time to build a hybrid he'd have time to just rebuild his current fte? Yes an fe will work and get you about for a bit but it has so many cons to pros that it's not worth it in my opinion. It's an engine from a lower model which is basically downgrading, it's not as capable with bigger power unless you strip it down and start changing bits and after all your hard work getting it back to a reasonable performer to the fte you've just devalued your whip because anyone looking to buy it will probably be confused as to why you took the nice turbo engine out and replaced it with a na lump lol.That's my opinion and from good experience. If you can't afford to do it properly then hold out instead of putting it together with bits slower models because stuff is cheaper lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 you see you went totaly oftopic ha ha chap wanted to know to fix on smal money i think you didnt read my reply of the options to use or the parts for his 4efte !!!! """"""""""buy the 4efe and fit the crank in your 4efte !!!! then buy a piston rod from on ere and a new set off bearings with an headgasket and your car will be back on the road for 200£ """"""""""" and about the value / devalue most starlets dont even have the original moter anymore and aint registerd to the new moter so there goos your value my 4efe block is registered to my chassi on the logbook and is so easy made into a real 4efte again !!!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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