Best LSD for Circuit Racing - Using C56 case ??

[Dingo Del]

Hi People ....

Have asked this in my build thread / blog but in case no one looks there !

Building a race car for circuit racing. No slicks buy AO50 R semis in Med comp.

Should have pretty good HP and although searching, I am still interested to know what people think ( Preferably from experience not he said she said ) Which is the most popular LSD to use.

Subject to availability of course.

I have raced a few FWD cars but not a Starlet EP71

Any help appreciated ....

Thanks in advance

[morgey]

Mad mike ep82 would probably have some good advice. Hes a 2 times ten of the best champ on the handling circuit.

Hes using a quaife After a quick look on his build.

[Dingo Del]

Hi ...

Mad mike ep82 would probably have some good advice. Hes a 2 times ten of the best champ on the handling circuit.

Hes using a quaife After a quick look on his build.

Thanks ...

Other than the cost of the Quife product doesn't the diff release or rather not lock if you kerb hopp at any stage.

I used GIG / Salsbury and also ZF when racing minis with the ZF I liked the best and that was a pawl diff.

As all the TRD / KAZ / Cuzzco are about the same cost I'm looking more towards the TRD from reports here.

Edited March 4, 2015 by Dingo Del

[morgey]

Tbh my diff game isnt that hot as i havent had much track time using mine. Im just chucking some names at you with a bit of experience.

Another guy whos tracking his car is wardy in an ep82. But no idea what hes using.

[AdamB]

A clutch type LSD would be best over Helical, not a fan of quaife diffs they don't work too well when the inside wheel goes light.

Cusco would be my choice.

[jayc-glanza17]

Cusco is very aggressive..

But on track it's so good..

Best mod I done to my glanza is the cusco lsd.

[Mad Mike EP82]

Only reason I bought quaife ATB is my car was a daily driver.

As for diffs cusco or I'm not sure if Mfactory do 1 for starlets

But if your serious about using starlet as a race car then I would look in to rear suspension design aswell because let's face it toyota's design is poo lol

Rear camber/toe adjustment is a must for race car

[RobSR]

A clutch type LSD would be best over Helical, not a fan of quaife diffs they don't work too well when the inside wheel goes light.

Cusco would be my choice.

^ This.

Id run a kaaz. Thats whats going to go in mine!

[Dingo Del]

Thanks .... Chaps / Chappet's ( Is there such a word "? )

I'm sure humble enough to appreciate advise cause you never stop learning

Just trying to get the right diff first time round if possible .... I am making many compromises to do things right and don't have buckets of dosh to do this project.

Raced with Welded diffs and ZF ( Pawl Type ) Sailbury also way back when Noah was a boy.

Not used TRD or ATS or KAZZ let alone Cusco ! So I guess I'm out of my depth and pretty lost .... As chassis set up dictates the " Correct diff "

If the chassis is wrong the diff may as well be a viscose

When you consider your depending on front tires to pay back engine torque with traction of the contact patch from two tires of possibly around half an A4 piece of paper, with crap tyre slip angles etc, I recon it's imperative to get things as best as one can.

No point in spending thousands chasing torque, only to throw it away without getting it doing it's job designed for !

Would not consider the Quaife ever, as I tried those in the Mini and was pretty dis-appointed to be honest.

Only reason I bought quaife ATB is my car was a daily driver.
As for diffs cusco or I'm not sure if Mfactory do 1 for starlets
But if your serious about using starlet as a race car then I would look in to rear suspension design aswell because let's face it toyota's design is poo lol

Rear camber/toe adjustment is a must for race car

I'll not say I'm up on things, as there's nothing worse, but have raced FWD cars for many many years. Each being different although supposedly the same !

Believe me I should have the rear end well sorted later .... As, as you say it's definately a weak link with chassis set up if you keen to exploit.

Without sound like a nob. My build thread will show later, rear roll center adjustment, alloy hubs and disc brake conversion, in car adjustable roll bars etc etc camber toe a must

Later's

[turbo Grant]

I run a clutch type ATS diff I'm my ep70 and it's awesome. Pulls you so well round the corners. Gets power down great. It's basicly like the cusco I have in the 82. Clutch type diffs are the way to go. The clunkings awesome, especially in the daily haha

[Dingo Del]

Hi ...

I run a clutch type ATS diff I'm my ep70 and it's awesome. Pulls you so well round the corners. Gets power down great. It's basicly like the cusco I have in the 82. Clutch type diffs are the way to go. The clunkings awesome, especially in the daily haha

Thanks for your response lad.

Is that the same company that make the Carbon Starlet diffs ?

I was looking at those, a bit exy but .... Basically looking for the best transition with least aggression ( Smooth transition ) out there.

Ok ... Thanks

Rather than start a new thread ( Which I shall if I can't find I need here ! )

I'm told the Glanza Turbo drive line uses equal length drive shafts with a normal nearside ( Passenger ) shaft, and the drivers has a jack shaft from the diff to around the end of the block around the block face.

There is a housing that may be bolted to the block which accommodates the jack shaft. Supports the end where the outer pot joint goes )

This shaft is simply a shaft with inner spline to go into the diff, the outer end fitting in a bearing before the a pot joint ( Just like the female passenger side one out the diff but longer.

Then the outer shaft goes in and is then it becomes the same length as the passenger side.

If this is right I will have to look for a set up in Jappa

If not I'll look to have a housing made and use Drive Shaft Shop ( US ) to make the kit, to be safe.

Please excuse me if I am wrong ... Still learning ... Damn fast

Edited March 6, 2015 by Dingo Del

[robwob88]

I'm running a cusco lad on my v and although it makes some soise while using on the road, overall it's an effective bit of kit when you fancy doing some enthusiastic driving. Best mod I've done by far.

[Gainzy]

TRD or Cusco never had neither but I'm sure they both work well can't go wrong.

[TimD]

I run a KAZZ diff in mine, pretty certain it needs a refresh in the not too distant future, works well despite that.

I would tend to disagree with altering the rear suspension and geo, I think if you're getting to that point you might as well go for something a bit newer that already has independent rear suspension from the factory.

I really like the way mine handles, bags of grip and very predictable at the limit and beyond, I'm in no rush to change it, and all I have are meister-r coilovers and whiteline ARBs.

[Gilly]

I am using a cusco in my daily and its an amazing bit of kit.

It is noisy and clunky but you get used to that part when you feel adventurous around some corners, i have never used on the track but i would imagine it would perform very well!

[Dingo Del]

Hey ...

Sorry for late response ... Been building cage which is worse than a bottle of sleeping tablets, and never seems to end, but it will be what I want soon.

I'm running a cusco lad on my v and although it makes some soise while using on the road, overall it's an effective bit of kit when you fancy doing some enthusiastic driving. Best mod I've done by far.

Thanks for your input

TRD or Cusco never had neither but I'm sure they both work well can't go wrong.

Agreed .... Probably go the TRD as I prefer the centre set up. But if money was no problem the ATS Carbon.

I run a KAZZ diff in mine, pretty certain it needs a refresh in the not too distant future, works well despite that.

I would tend to disagree with altering the rear suspension and geo, I think if you're getting to that point you might as well go for something a bit newer that already has independent rear suspension from the factory.

I really like the way mine handles, bags of grip and very predictable at the limit and beyond, I'm in no rush to change it, and all I have are meister-r coilovers and whiteline ARBs.

My build thread has our Motorsport Governing Body ( CAMS ) rules ...

>http://docs.cams.com...p-3J-2015-1.pdf

To run a car in IP ... One can't change the suspension design.

MUST use original LCA and ALL rear end parts with the exception of suspension struts and hubs.

One can add some strengthening / roll centre adjustment also to pick up points on chassis / LCA's ( But this can easily wreck bump steer etc )

Allowed to make fancy roll bars, which are free. ( If you have serious shocks you need serious roll bars ...

Mine will be pretty girly ;)

Can extend the ball joint pick up off the LCA for scrub radius, ( KPI ) but can't weld anything to the LCA. Must be bolted only.

Can make provisions for bump steer though with either hubs or spacers etc.

by the way .... Who wants newer cars with all the good gear ! ... I chose the EP70 as it has homologation pre- 1986 which all cars not manufactured here or sold here commercially must have. It will also be a challenge. Plus it's very light to start.

We run on Yokies AO50R's now for two years and med compound.

I am using a cusco in my daily and its an amazing bit of kit.

It is noisy and clunky but you get used to that part when you feel adventurous around some corners, i have never used on the track but i would imagine it would perform very well!

Thanks ... Know what you mean Huh.

I used to drive a RB version Sunny, with three Nismo LSD's and a dog box.

Couldn't hear yourself talk when turning in or starting off with lock on at low speed Used to enjoy driving it just listening to the box whine and diffs do their stuff.