TBDevelopments

no we have them made for us, just a straight sump bolt replacement with the magnet in the middle, but had alot of issues with the typical alloy ones on the market with people overtightening them and stripping the threads out so I've had these made in steel, zinc coated with a high strength magnet fitted in the middle. Tim TB Developments

its ok mate my numbers were really rough as well, as didn't know the full information but it'll get him close enough. the stock knock sensor can read a noise level based on its feedback, like when you connect the power fc to it it'll show a numerical figure for background noise and knock. But the stock ecu doesn't do much until it fails and then goes into a safemode. The experience i've had with these is the ecu will obviously have a figure for safemode activation, i've seen this trigger a few times and the sensor be ok but 9/10 the sensor fails, engine goes into safemode and protects itse

numbers and thickness's on the first page mate. Valve relief won't make a huge different 0.1 point at most Tim TB Developments

ringlands only normally go on these engines because of leaning out or detonation... This basically points to it not been setup up correctly i'm afraid buddy right i'm off to bed, have some fun with those numbers, you have my number if you need me

that was just machining specs of the angle of the valve cut etc doesn't really give me piston relief CC Personally i'd just go with the 9.0:1 and stick an emanage on there. If you've cracked 3 pistons on your old engine then there was something seriously something wrong with your setup. Like i said i've run my blitz K1 at 1.1bar at 200bhp for the last 70,000miles and its never missed a beat, this is because its all setup properly on bog standard engine internals.

ok going on some really rough numbers nere. guessing on alot of things Bore 74mm Stroke 77.4mm Head Gasket - Variable Head Gasket Diameter 76mm Piston to Head Depression 0cc Combustion Chamber 39cc Piston Dome CC (set at 0cc because i don't know valve relief so this will give a lower reading once i know this) 1.0mm Gives 9.00:1 1.2mm Gives 8.83:1 1.4mm Gives 8.68:1 1.7mm Gives 8.45:1 1.9mm Gives 8.31:1 Remember these will drop once i know the CC of the piston dome and valve relief. like i said some really rough numbers Tim TB Developments

well not as much as if you get this wrong and then have to rebuild it again ;) engine building to a proper level isn't just spanners and screwing things together. Alot of people don't realise that

not always mate, 3sgte for example are 86mm piston bore and the gaskets come in 88mm

again mate should have said could have had a nice cometic one added to the piston order ;)

well you know i'm here to help if i can. Wish you'd have let me build the engine properly from the start ;) would have used the 74.5mm and then used the torque block to correct for the factory relaxed block bore and honing. Tim TB Developments

i'm speaking my wiesco contact at the moment in america and trying to find out the manufacturing specifications used when they were built. From that i can work out a rough compression ratio and then change the gasket thickness around to get something. what i do need is a bore diameter from you of the head gasket your going to be using Tim TB Developments

on first fire up raise the revs to 2500-3000rpm and run for 20mins. Check for leaks and issues the entire time. Don't let it settle below this or it'll start to glaze the rings. god tip about the metal filings produced by running in an engine, but this is why i supply and fit a high strength magnetic sump plug on all my engine builds i do. Something i highly recommend to all engines rebuilt or not Tim TB Developments

could have got you your scat rods with the pistons and everything else mate ;) Yes there is a correct orientation. If you look on journal the notches that locate the bearings on a clockwise rotational engine these go on the exhaust side of the engine. Its all to do with bearing loading on rotational thrust Tim TB Developments

not yet, there is alot more to calculating CR that just punching in numbers. Really the parts want CC'ing to work out correctly. Bore and stroke we know. But the head gasket thickness is a variable But need to know head gasket bore (as there bigger than the 74mm piston bore) Need to know exactly the CC of the cylinder head (these do change between engines,and even seen differences from one side of the engine to the other) Need to know exactly CC of the piston valve recess Need to know exactly the piston face below the deck height from a dial gauge information I can't really

you do realise the knock sensor in standard form doesn't actually do alot it doesn't detect little bits of knock and retard the timing. In standard form it almost acts like a fuse, that will blow when it detects large numbers and this throws the ecu into a safe mode. So don't feel its "working overtime" by adjusting the timing to suit because it just doesn't I do agree with adam that this engine should be setup with a proper ecu, but i also believe this on all starlets that reach there fuel cut level because this FPR, and fuel cut defender is just bodge tuning. I wouldn't take your current