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candy_red

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About candy_red

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  1. The numbers you get when compression testing are higher than what you state due to all kinds of real world factors like heat valve opening and closing times etc. Not important in your case. Selecting the right shim is really as easy as you said and as the text you have circled yellow in your previous post. First step is to measure the gap 2nd is identify the existing shims thickness 3rd do the math to figure out new shim's thickness considering 0,2 gap on intake and 0,3mm on exhaust side. I had a very hard time getting hold of all the shims when i built mine due to ove
  2. Permatex Supra Grey will do the job. Haven't had it fail on me neither oil nor coolant. Also if your are doing it with the engine in the car you need to be extra careful how you place it on the gearbox side over the rear seal cover. I ve found it tricky as its narrow and space around it is really tight between the gearbox and no.5 main cap. A second person to help you keep it aligned will make it much easier.
  3. Oil pressure gauge will work excellent with a remote adapter and tbh its the most vital of the two. I have never had oil temp issues back when on ct9 even with light track duty and 1 bar of boost. Anything involving road driving wont cause oil temps above 110 degrees which is what i'd call excessive. If you MUST see oil temp as i said before sandwich adapter is the best bet. I remember i shaved mine just barely on the seal and never leaked over the 6-7 years i was using it. Relocation kits will give you the advantage of easy filter changes multiple sensor locations to choose fro
  4. Guys, dont bother fitting a temp sensor on the remote standoff. Its not accurate at all as there is no circulation of oil. It will be extremely slow to react to any changes in temp and will never ultimately show correct value. So its not worth all the brainstorming to make this work in order to only find out that your oil only "warms to about 50-60 C " and never past that, no matter what you do or how you drive. I m just saying this because i have tried it and eventually went the sandwich plate way before changing to cooler and remote filter location. It is possible to only sha
  5. I wouldn't know as i installed it with the 1.5mm banjo right away. Did have some smoke issues but was from a slightly kinked return. When i fixed that everything was fine. But there goes to show you, that even with a 1.5mm feed hole there will easily be flooding in the cartridge. I imagine that it would be much worse with a full size banjo. Turbos dont need that much oil as we'd like to think. Play it safe and go with 1.5mm. The spot weld idea sounds good as you would only need to drill the weld and not through the whole damn bolt. Its an easy swap at the end of the day if it do
  6. I remember back when i fitted the TD04 reading somewhere that it needed some kind of restriction and 1.5mm feed hole would be appropriate. Long story short as i couldnt find a 1.5mm banjo anywhere i got a bolt and drilled a hole along the thread axis and one horizontally essentially creating the banjo i wanted. Never had a problem with oil consumption and turbo was mint and clean when i removed it after 6 years. Id imagine a regular banjo with a big opening would certainly flood it and create smoke.
  7. I stand by the sandwich plate option being the best just because you can mount both pressure and temp sensors. Although another solution would be to place it in the sump but that requires removal drilling taping and then resealing.
  8. WIll you be running AC? If not then a sandwich plate is the best and cleanest solution. Just grab one and grind away the material needed to clear the power steering tensioner bracket. I have my old one that i used before adding the oil cooler and filter relocation, i can snap some pics for you to see what it looked like when i get home.
  9. wow so much room in the corolla!!! Good progress man, keep it coming.
  10. 1 liter should be enough to fill the system with some to spare.
  11. This looks like the 5efe TB. The inlet is identical to the turbo one, but necks down to 45mm towards the plate. It also has the variable TPS. I also believe this tubular manifold will provide massive gains up to 4-5k rpm. It will be a restriction though in the upper rev range compared to the turbo manifold. Dyno testing is your best friend on these things.
  12. JDM cars usually dont have immobilizers. You probably wont need to do any of these things
  13. Also make sure the igniter is well grounded . That can cause lack of spark.
  14. You ll be surprised how much better spool you ll get just by that tighter spring. I remember way back when i installed mine even though initial setting turned out to be 0.4 bar instead of the irregular 0.6-0.8 i was getting with the sloppy old oem actuator, i was caught in surprise by how much more responsive the car felt. Excellent work. Wouldnt have looked this good even when it was new in the factory!!!
  15. i ll also confirm that for bearing clearance as mentioned you need to torque the mains with the bearings installed. Measure the crank lobe with the mic and then the bore 90 degrees to the parting line using the dial bore gauge. Substract accordingly Your method seems logical on first thought but the bearing shells kinda distort to their apropriate shape once they are inside the bore Keep us posted on the results! 0.133 would be way off
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