GP82

The top two are washers for the bolt on the oil filter housing feeding oil to turbo. The biggest one looks like washer that goes on oil filter housing, centre large bolt. The smallest ones look like injector nozzle seals and three and four from the top look injector collar seals.

It shouldn't need much more force then what is required when rotating without the pistons and rods. The extra resistance will be the rings, main thing it should feel consistently smooth after initial force applied. If you feel its too much you will have to bactrack. using the arp studs with higher torque value in comparison to factory spec can put your mainline out of roundness. The cylinder block would require align honing with the arp fastners to get it back concentric. Wd40 the bores and see if feels better. Good luck.

yah but 3 cylinders?! 😕 nah man 4e still rules

chuffin' 'ell Rob... WoW!!

Got any fault codes?

I leave the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe off the engine as well as the alternator, all the cast iron brackets that stick out timing belt side (I think powersteering bracket etc) and just anything that sticks out too much, I remove and fit after engine installation. (I also like to install the crank pulley after engine goes in) I find it easiest to drop the engine and gearbox in together, shimmy it down trajectory towards the mounting points then give it a little pirouette to clear gearbox side end to sweep under where the battery sits. Get the timing belt side of engine mount and

They are amazing What size are Your wheels? Last time I had a look at the dimensions on them, I think they would fit inside 14's. Super packaging for really good stopping power!

That looks awesome! Really good work! Regarding cylinder head, it's ported, exhaust ports have been enlarged, intake cleaned up, small changes to the combustion chambers, intake and exhaust ports matched to their manifolds, studs, mild camshafts (not yet fitted), Cruise valve springs, durex stem seals. I were gonna go with uprate stainless steel valves, not bigger ones thou, but for strength to fight heat generated as I've seen stock valves bend, worse case just break on high hp output race cars. The cause it's inspected to be the stem diameter is very small and taking into a

Ah I see, You mentioned time attack, do You have any plans regarding aero for this car as I have seen that is a big factor in these competition events. Yeah built the motor meself, I try to do everything myself. Love motorsport. All types, enjoy all aspects of tuning. My current set-up feels like 250 ~ 260 hp @ wheels. I'm aiming for 500 ~ 600 with big turbo set-up and ecu (I've got Haltech in my mind, but we will see) and a big overhaul of the fuel system. This build You are creating sound's really good and looking forward to seeing it progress!

Hi Rob, WoW! Looks like great chassis work in progress! You removing weight and I guess weld in cage?! Top stuff as always!! This is the area I want to concentrate on after getting the power. Cached in the background, I have noticed there are some EP veterans out there not willing to retire just yet and moving onto the next level haha, Great stuff! Engine wise CP pistons, solid wrist pins, Carillo rods, currently running on the old Vf29 setup 20+ psi boost pressure, until I get all the bits for the big turbo setup. Just got the engine up and running not so long ago, I'm sti

Nice!

OEM all the time! There are 1000+ HP Toyota E series race engines running Toyota bearings! These motors are stripped for inspection after every other race and put back together with the same bearings!

It's quite common or at least I've seen it a lot on many EP's, but your engine cutting out, this seems the issue is more apparent. I've always thought the voltage is not compensating for the extra power that gets drawn from other sources like headlights, heater, hazards and relays. Then one friend put a earthing kit on his car which seemed to have made it better. So I had a look at the earths and what I observed was all the chassis grounds only connect/ touch the metal body through the threads of the bolt that clamp that respective ground down. So the ground to chassis touches the under h

Hi I'm looking for the part number for the dash coolant temp sensor for a M3 EP82. It's the one pin sensor no:9 on the list. It sits directly below the ecu temp sensor on the housing. Mine's came apart when i tried removing it. Checked toyodiy for part no with no luck! Or if anyone knows where I can get one. Thanks!