aaddzz123

Reviving a post from the past here, but did anyone actually make any hybrid boxes in the end or find something that could work? I just bought a mk1 mr2 c52 and put my starlet bell housing on and fitted my diff no problem but ran into some..... rough noises 5 minutes into a drive. Need to take it apart to see what's wrong but it's left me wondering if anyone actually went down this route of mixing boxes and found anything that works or doesn't work etc.

Strange. I don't want to make a pot if it's just masking an issue that should be fixed. Guess I can start by taking the pump out and seeing if it sits right or whatever. 

Does anyone else experience any fuel starvation when cornering a little hard? If my GT has 1/4 tank of fuel or less, it doesn't like to be thrown about. I went into a roundabout earlier today and had a little bit of lift off oversteer and lost all power, AFRs read off the scale lean so I know it's starvation. I just didn't expect it to starve at 1/4 tank lol. Does anyone else have this issue? Wondering if it could be due to something else or if I should consider fabricating a swirl pot.

Just an update guys. I solved the issue by getting a genuine emanage serial cable (actually came with an emanage I bought for another car) and a RS-232 (serial) to USB adaptor. Plugged them together, connected to the ECU and it logged straight up on the emanage support tool.

Cheers for the replies guys. I've seen it working in videos on Windows 7 and after researching it, apparently EMU won't work on later operating systems but EMB will? I feel like the issue is probably due to the ttl converter I'm using so I've ordered a different one which I think will be more likely to work. Any other ideas whilst I'm waiting for that to arrive is highly appreciated lol.

Windows 7. Software itself installs and opens up fine, just won't connect.

Hiya guys and girls.
I'm trying to gain access to my emanage blue unit to check the map and make some adjustments if required but I cannot get it to connect to my laptop for shit. I'm using a USB - TTL adaptor and understand that the original method was to use a serial cable etc. I've tried all variations of software and made sure I had the correct COM port initiated and selected on the software but nothing. I'm also a little unsure on how exactly the TTL USB adaptor is supposed to work. It has 3 lights on there to display power, and I'm assuming that the other two are data sent and data received however the only light to show up when the cables are in the suggested positions, is the main red light for power. If I switch the TX and RX cables around and remove the power cable, all lights will show when plugged into the emanage but turned off. I've tried different drivers too, different launch sequences of the unit and software etc but it always remains offline.

I could basically do with a dummy guide on what the lights mean, where the cables go, how to connect this cable properly or check it to make sure it works and the cables are in the right positions and any other advice on getting it connected and working. 

Any help grateful, cheers.
Adam.

Flat head and a hammer. Really that easy? Lol! Tried and tested? Yeah I know it's not ideal asking here but really there's no way of asking anywhere without it being inconvenient and people are welcome to PM instead like I mentioned .

I know I know I know. I've never lost a key before so it's never even crossed my mind to get spares. I'll check his thread cheers.

As title says. For an 80 and an 82 although don't think it matters if 91.

I know fuck off lol! No spares either complete dick move

I've asked the local police, asked a company that have a simulator because I had a few go's on that and sent the organisers a message because they didn't answer. Nothing yet

Not sure how I managed it but I lost my car keys today at a show which had my gt keys, ep80 keys and mx5 keys. I've broken into the 80 and can get into my gt too because I'm a sly sneaky snake.

What are my best options for changing the ignition barrels? I know they come out by turning the key to ignition and pressing the pin but obviously I have no keys. I've heard of drilling them but I'm not sure how well that really works lol.

All help appreciated. Pm me if you don't want to share your dodgy car stealing advice with the Internet lol

Also to mention your gas flow will vary with what size cup you use. My best results have been with a bigger cup.

From what I remember I think around 15psi for tig welding? I could be completely wrong so don't hold me to that haha! Usually you'll know if the gas is too low or high if it spits or bubbles. Remember to bevel the ends of your joints to make sure there's a nice area to sit the weld in ! Also the main problem I had with welding mild with tig was due to contamination. With mig you can pretty much go over anything and it'll be alright. Tig needs to be clean. Make sure you key all the areas you're welding and give them a wipe off with panel wipe too.

Bringing back an old topic here. I didn't realise that you had to be so specific with the tolerances on bearings. I thought it was a case of they're stock, or they're oversized by 0.25mm.

I've just measured my crank with a caliper because it's all I have, and they're around 46.90 on the mains and 39.90 on the biggies so I presume it's standard size.

I'm willing to buy a gauge that goes into the thousands to check them properly, but then when I have a look for replacement bearings, the only options are stock, or .25 oversize lol! Example...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JDM-TAIHO-MAIN-CON-ROD-ENGINE-BEARING-SET-STARLET-GT-TURBO-EP82-EP91-4E-FTE-STD-/291716267889?hash=item43eba4ff71:g:JGwAAOSwnDxUkG9B

And the oversized, with no specific options

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAIN-CON-ROD-ENGINE-BEARING-SET-Toyota-Corolla-Starlet-1E-2E-4E-Taiho-0-25-/252228971897?hash=item3aba04ad79:g:xoIAAOSwPcVVwLrB

So.... Is it really no use buying the "standard" size bearings listed above because they might be out? Or realistically is that thousand of a mm going to make any difference, and generally a standard size replacement will be fine?

Also is there any real benefit of using an ACL bearing over a standard one?

Cheers guys!

Remove the rubber bung on the top of the body. Be a flat blade screw which adjusts the idle... Before you do that though, with the car running put your hand over the throttle body. If it continues to run then you have a vac leak which is going to be what's causing the high idle. If it cuts out then just adjust the screw.

Lol quite a funny video and i'm sure the guy filming is Seth Rogen...

However just to clarify, yes you can chsnge the stem seals with the head still on. I suppose there is quite a bit to explain so I'll brush over it.

Firstly if you zip tie the cam belt to the cam pulley and remove the bolt into the cam, not lowering it so you don't disturb the timing, but gently slide the pulley off the cam, this will save you a lot of time. You can just pull it back onto the cam later and bolt it back up. Secondly the hardest part is going to be putting the retainers and keepers back in place if you don't have the correct tools.

But basically...

Remove top cam cover.

Remove rocker cover.

Zip tie belt to cam pulley and remove to side.

Remove cams by evenly and gradually removing caps in a spiral motion from the middle.

Remove buckets with shims.

Now either pressurise the cylinder you're working on with a leak down tester, or if that sounds like gobildy gook, you can put some rope down the spark plug hole and put the piston up, however this will disturb the cam belt and timing.

Once valves are wedged up with air or rope, remove springs and seals as in video, pliers are fine to use also, when putting new seals in just use a right sized socket on an extension to push the seals into place. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Work backwards to build back up...

I'm giving that as a guide on the asumption you have an idea what you're doing... If you don't understand a lot of it, just take it to a garage and save yourself a massive headache.

Skiiiiiids! Gave it a good old limiter bash around the industrial estate to celebrate.

All sorted now guys. I changed the knock sensor for another and it's all fine again. Thanks for the help!

All fuel, boost, timing etc are the same. I've checked the continuity and it's fine all the way from the plug to the Ecu. I tried unscrewing it and clamped it to the inlet so that it had a vibration, to check if it was actually detecting a knock but it's exactly the same. Soooo I'm hoping it's the sensor, which I'm going to change tomorrow.

I've fixed alot of these and from my experience the causes are:

(in order of likelihood)

1- Break in wire or damaged wire causing no connectivity or abnormal resistance readings from end to end

2- (Related to the repair of above) Incorrectly joined shielding around the signal wire.

Either earth shield connected at the knock sensor end (it shouldn't be)

Or the earth shield not rejoined from break point (usually by injectors) and the wire picking up inductive electrical noise (alternator etc)

3 - Knock sensor plug wire end terminal not clamping the knock sensor terminal correctly causing a poor connection

De-pin, clean and tighten

4 - The knock sensor is faulty and needs replacing.

I've only seen this half a dozen times in the last 10 years.

Re AFR's and running like a bag of dicks - yep I'm certain the ecu pulls a chunk of timing out when it falsely detects knock (this is generally what happens with aftermarket ecu's) and possibly throws some more fuel in to slow the flame front although im guessing on the last part.

For the poster above, skimming the head will raise the compression and dependant on how close to peak timing your original tune was it may cause some knock? Bit hard to gauge without knowing what ecu your using and the state of tune etc. You could try to knock a few degrees of timing out of the whole map and see what happens?

Hope this helps

Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm confident that the head skim wouldn't causes enough difference in compression to cause a problem. I could be wrong, but I have ran the car for a while since putting it all back together without any issues. I have a feeling it's more than likely going to be a broken wire after disturbing it.

I'll check it all out and report back !

Cheers mate.

Also, AFRs are around 10 or lower, so rich... I presume the ecu thinks there is knock so making it run rich, but see no reason for there to actually be knock. Running the same map it's had for over a year and nothing changed apart from a head skim which I've been running since for a while.

Did you ever come to a solution with this? Randomly got the code 52 today. Only symptoms I have is sluggish lower end around 4.5k to 5.5k it picks up again. And obviously the light comes on.

I went to the ring a few months back and it was probably the best bit of my euro trip. We went in a £130 diesel 406 and still had a right laugh. Managed a 10:36.

My advice would be to play loads of Gt6 before you go. Properly learn the track because it's surprisingly accurate I found. Also I didn't realise before we went but it was only open to public for a few hours in the evening and we only just managed to fit 4 laps in with breaks for cooling down etc.

We stopped in the official campsite on the outskirts of Nurburg and it was pretty dead with no official races on. Wasn't that expensive either.

Well its a pretty personal thing to post in the first place. I didn't make the topic, just asked for an elaboration. Don't agree with any of it and think the posts should be removed tbh.