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I witnessed a near standard glanza running .5psi under standard boost, hks actuator, a fuel pressure reg ported exhaust manifold and head, a blitz Access ecu, 2.5inch straight threw exhaust system/gutted factory cat hit 168hp. It even had the standard top mount intercooler. Mighty gains. Gives you an idea of the gains a ported head brings. 

 

Edited by Sam44
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Yep, exactly that, but be carefull on the exhaust bridge in-between the exhaust valves, there's a water jacket around 3-4mm down into the material (were the arrows are in the picture above) its thinnest point is smack bang in-between the exhaust valves so just round off the edges like in the picture above. The additional flow gains are mighty. Sorry about late reply.

  You can use a slightly thinner aftermarket head gasket to bring back any lost compression ratio. Only work the areas around the valves (all valves) the rest is much needed cylinder squish zones.

the area/lip I originally highlighted can be completely removed. This is a unfinished cast lip left behind (a production line product).

the thinner head gasket also improves cylinder squish/turbulence/mixing. 

Edited by Sam44
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I did find this while over in the states. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32661534632.html

.3mm thickness. Whilst the original is dinner plate 1.2mm 

The thing to remember here is the valve to piston clearance. These gaskets quote 5efe, but if you run the higher lift 5ehfe cams I'd be tempted to check the clearance. From what I can see on you tube videos it will clear ok. 

Cylinder mixing on the e series engine is poor at best due to the very thick head gasket and combustion chamber shape/design. 

This gasket will help in afew different ways. 

Also use the factory head bracing. These always get left off. 

Edited by Sam44
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@Sam44 nice one buddy! Some real good info here, thank you! I shall go about making these changes at some stage

Already got the 0.3mm (although its sold as a 0.5mm? 🤔) headgasket ready to rock, plus the 0.15mm head skim. When I get round to building it I shall check the piston to valve clearances, as well as the overall CC and compression ratio

And good note about the bracing, everything that comes off during the rebuild I shall put back on 👍🏻 thanks again! 

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Your welcome. 

Here to help if I can. With what you have done and are doing I was thinking it would be best to tell you so you can extract the full potential. The valve head restrictions are the 2nd biggest problem area after the 1st which is the unfinished machine lip of the valve seat, on the port throat (inside the port directly behind the valve).  

It's real easy to check the valve to piston clearance. Use an old headgasket, head bolts, and some putty on the piston crown them measure the depth of the valve indentation after a few reverlutions of the engine. 

The lost compression ratio with the head/combustion chamber work is only slight. But the additional mixing/squish impact that a thinner head gasket brings is also mighty. The two go together like peas and carrots, bringing engine optimization and power. 

 

 

Edited by Sam44
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6 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Your welcome. 

Here to help if I can. With what you have done and are doing I was thinking it would be best to tell you so you can extract the full potential

 

Much appreciated!

Especially since I'm staying naturally asperated I need to squeeze out as much as I possibly can of it, so everything I'm doing that has even the smallest of benefits will all add up (at least I'm hoping it will!) 

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You can port match the inlet manifold to the head ports. Use the gasket as a guild.

Do not port match the exhaust side, these need to have a lip to reduce the affect of the back pressure waves. 

Also the paseo 1.5ltr Toyota e series engine runs a lower temp thermostate targeting engine power against in cab comfort/heat from memory I think it's 78deg. Use this it's a great mod for the 4efte lads. It's stamped on the thermostat. You can use the 68 deg aftermarket unit for more power but you will suffer to deforst the screen in winter.

I've also been very surprised with these E3 spark plugs in mine I'm on the heat range 6. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Wire-Set-E3-Racing-Spark-Plugs-For-95-98-Toyota-Paseo-Tercel-1-5L-/324210949520?redirect=mobile

Edited by Sam44
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8/04/2021

So lately I got the driver seat out to paint the rails. Did that, and re-fitted them and the seat.

However the threads on one of the bolt holes decided to shit itself, so out of frustration I decided to re-tap them and fitted some nice beefy M12 stainless steel bolts

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So a few weeks ago I had taken my cylinder head to have the exterior coated with cerakote (ceramic coating) to reduce engine bay temps by reducing radiating heat.

At the same time I was going to have the combustion chambers coated with a ceramic piston coating but after hours of reading/research I've kinda decided against it. No one seems to have any clear answers on whether it would be beneficial or not for a naturally aspirated, high compression, street driven engine, but from what I've read i get the feeling that it might not be that beneficial in my case. 

This is because the coating retains the heat and reflects it rather than allow it to pass through the piston, keeping the piston cool & the heat in the cylinder. There are quite a few pros to ceramic piston coatings, but there's no such thing as a free lunch, and in my case I have concerns over the retained heat in the cylinder actually adding to the possibility of causing knock that high compression engines are susceptible to. I will try to do some further digging and try to actually ask some experts, but for now I may only have the valves done to keep them cooler. 

 

But big thanks to @Sam44 for his advice on improving the flow of the chambers, I went and collected the head just before they started so that I can make the changes suggested by Sam and then take it back to be coated. 

Started with the lip on the intake side:

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And below is all lips on all 4 Chambers removed:

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After that was done I turn focused to the portion of material between the 2 exhaust valves. Only done the one chamber today, but I will continue tomorrow, but you can compare the one I've done to the one next to it:

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This should hopefully help exhaust gasses flow a little better around and out the exhaust valves

 

I also got myself a brand new JDM led road flare from DJR Imports, so many thanks to him for that! You can check him out on Instagram HERE, he's often got some decent goodies for sale

Just need to order myself some clips

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Edited by Trevstar
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lovely job. the gains here are some of the best. you can cleaerly see now as the valve head lifts off the seat it flows across 80 to 90% of the inlet valve circumference. there is only 1 place/person i know does this to these heads and now you. keep up the great work. this is very similar to the head im running with the exception that my valve guilds have not been ground back. 

have you port matched the inlet manifold to head?. you can use the gasket as a guild.    

Edited by Sam44
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27 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

lovely job. the gains here are some of the best. you can cleaerly see now as the valve head lifts off the seat it flows across 80 to 90% of the inlet valve circumference. there is only 1 place/person i know does this to these heads and now you. keep up the great work. this is very similar to the head im running with the exception that my valve guilds have not been ground back. 

have you port matched the inlet manifold to head?. you can use the gasket as a guild.    

Thanks again for your advise, if it weren't for you it would never have been done! :thumbsup:

Was scared to touch the chambers first time round as I didn't have the knowledge of what to remove. Do wonder about my valve guides now though from what we talked about

I haven't gasket matched the inlet ports as of yet as I didn't have a gasket so I was going to revisit that once I had a gasket to match it to, but I found an old one the other day so I shall get on and do that once I finish sorting the chambers! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

26/4/2021

So ive finished the work inside the combustion chambers and measured their volume. They were all within 0.5cc of each other but I wanted to try to bring this closer, so I did a little more trimming inside two of the chambers and re-measured them

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I also done the gasket matching on the inlet side 

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The final result:

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I measured the chambers several times and on average (taking into account any measurement errors) they're all within 0.3cc of each other 😎 not bad for a back garden combustion chamber re-profiling 

I used the dokuro valves I had previously bought to make the measurements as I only wanted to check they were all the same size, but I have decided not to use these valves for my build because these have a deeper dish in the valve face than the standard valves which lowers the compression slightly and I have removed quite a bit of material from the combustion chambers which will have reduced compression by a fair amount already, plus when I get the valve seats cut that will further drop compression by a tiny bit more. So to combat the loss in compression I will have to get the head skimmed even further but I need to check piston to valve clearances etc.

In addition to the head skimming, I have been looking to into some custom flat faced stainless steel valves from a company called G&S Valves which used to manufacture valves for cosworth and some British F1 teams, so they should know their shit! They already have the technical drawings for 4e-fte valves, so they already have something to work from and I was on the phone with them for over half an hour and had a very good & informative chat

They said that a flat faced valve will allow for a more complete burn whilst upping the compression slightly and they reckon they can design the back of the valve faces to suit the downdraft of the intake ports to have better flow characteristics to suit my needs (being n/a) which will compliment all the cylinder head work and they reckon they can design them in such a way that they'll still be almost, or as light as a standard valve

This however, is fucking expensive. Like over £800 expensive 😐 but again, as I'm in the pursuit of trying to squeeze the absolute most out of it as possible for the sake of curiosity, so for that reason, I am considering it. 

For now though, I have taken the cylinder head back to be ceramic coated. 

 

If you've been reading you'll probably remember the 'ECT' button I was gonna turn into a mode/map switch? 

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Well, it's finished and ready to go! And I have to say I'm well pleased with it! 

After very carefully sanding away the 'ECT' text and letting it sit there for ages, I finally made myself a stencil with the word 'MODE', masked up 'PWR' & 'NORM' and airbrushed matte black over it which left me with this

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The final product: (off) 

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On with backlight off

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Off with backlight on

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On with backlight

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Edited by Trevstar
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@snails ep91 @Sam44  Cheers guys!

The cylinder head probably has a couple weeks worth of hours put into it, even the dremel I bought specifically to do the job is starting to act up and make strange noises so I don't think it can take much more 😂

But if something is gonna be done, it's got to be done properly! Especially when most of the time people give up tuning n/a's.

And I think it's good to document everything to share information for others that might want to do something similar, or even if (and thats a very strong if) the car ended up in someone else's hands one day, they can easily look back through a more much more detailed history than just some stamps & a pile of receipts

Edited by Trevstar
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Just a little update where we're at:

- I'm still waiting on the cylinder head to come back from being cerakote'd. Its been a long while now, but they've explained why, which I fully understand (fortunately I'm not in a rush) 

- I haven't yet decided whether or not to go with the flat faced valves due to the cost, but if I did it might also be better to go further and get Colsibro valve guides to suit, then I would need to get them fitted & valve seats cut (which would need doing either way), but as I say this would be further added cost

- I also think I have come to the decision not to go ahead with the emanage ultimate, and instead go down a standalone route as this will give me better control to suit my requirements. Mainly a standalone unit will provide more accurate adjustments, slightly better features, and it enable me to use knock control, whereas the EMU only monitors knock, not manage it, which is important when running a high compression like I plan to

- Both the of the front Recaro seats have had all the bolsters replaced with brand new genuine Recaro foam, and I padded out the support bars on the frames to add a little bit more rigidity. I also had some material replaced where it was wearing thin

Here's what the old bolsters looked like:

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And here's what they were replaced with:

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Whilst the seats were apart I noticed one of the upper seat frames had some cracks in it, so I took one to be welded which he struggled with because they were made of 'crap' metal (bit disappointing for a Recaro seat if I'm honest).

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Having already left with one repaired, I then noticed the other one was actually worse, and rather than go back and pay him again, I thought I would try TIG weld it myself with a recent mma & tig welder I had acquired from someone I did some work for. I'm not gonna lie, the welds are pretty shit. Excuses being: frames made of thin pot metal, cheap welder, shit tungsten, welding outside, and lack of experience. That said, the welds should hold as the didn't break when I tried, plus I did add some reinforcement. 

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With these cracks welded up it immediately made the seats noticeably more ridged than before. Obviously I gave them a spray of self etch primer and some black paint before reassembling

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- I have also decided that I'm not happy with the paint I used on the seat rails because its become apparent that it easily chips off. So I am having the entire rails blackened (which is what I think they were originally), which is a metal surface treatment rather than a coating and will be more durable and resistant to corrosion. Also the stripped mounting point threads that I re-tapped to M12 make it difficult to get the rails mounted properly, so I am going to weld up the holes and re-tap them again back to the original M10 size

Now for the big news, unfortunately this progress thread will be having a bit of another go slow for a while. But this isn't a bad thing! Because I am actually moving house soon to another location which has considerably more space where I have the opportunity to build my own garage/workshop, which will enable me to take on bigger jobs such as engine removal etc. and actually make some real progress, so stay tuned! 

In other news, if your interested, I finally completed my replica model of my late friend Shahid's car that I made as a tribute to him, and I have to say I'm pretty chuffed with it

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I've enjoyed making it soo much I bought more :lol:

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Edited by Trevstar
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Hello mate. Nice work as always! 

You decided which standalone you're going with yet? The Link? 

Good shout on getting the seats blackened, that paint went far too easily when moving her outside, can't even see how that happened!? 

Looking forward to seeing your new place in the flesh, not going to lie I'm pretty jealous of the space you'll have for activities! 😉 Just need yourself a pair of wellys and a tweed jacket now! 😉 

The models looking great, it's a really nice thing you did for him and I hope his family get to see it and appreciate it all the work that went in. 

Once settled on my house move I'll be ordering myself up and R32 model I reckon, closest I'll be getting to the real thing i expect 🙄😂

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On 7/20/2021 at 8:15 AM, Goldie said:

Hello mate. Nice work as always! 

You decided which standalone you're going with yet? The Link? 

Good shout on getting the seats blackened, that paint went far too easily when moving her outside, can't even see how that happened!? 

Looking forward to seeing your new place in the flesh, not going to lie I'm pretty jealous of the space you'll have for activities! 😉 Just need yourself a pair of wellys and a tweed jacket now! 😉 

The models looking great, it's a really nice thing you did for him and I hope his family get to see it and appreciate it all the work that went in. 

Once settled on my house move I'll be ordering myself up and R32 model I reckon, closest I'll be getting to the real thing i expect 🙄😂

Cheers mate! Considering either a ME442 so that it fits in the original casing, if not that, then a Link G4X monsoon sounds like it would fit the bill 

Ohh that paint I used on the rails only gave false expectations, won't be using that again

Tweed jacket!? 🤣 noo way you'll be seeing me in one of those, not for a very long time at least! I'm too young and 'one of those city boys' 👨🏻‍🌾😂 I'm looking forward for you to come see it as well, naturally you're more than welcome to come up! Plus I'll probably need you and burty's help at some stage 😎

And thank you mate, that means a lot! 🙏🏻

And you're probably right, these models are the closest either of us are gonna get to owning the real thing now 😅😭

 

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