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Josh's forged 5E Massive spec forged build! 370BHP!!


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27 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

What are you using for your water pump. Fantastic build this is the first build I've seen deel with the water pump problems affecting block pressures. 

I have the stock oe water pump mate, whats the issue your speaking of with block pressures?  Cheers josh 

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Oh sorry there I thought it was yours I've been digging threw loads of builds recently, the stock water pump is a really poor design. I've seen block pressure test were 4x pressure sensors sensors are drilled and fitted to the block 4x corners and in the 2x sides of the head cam belt end and thermostats end and the engine was put threw its paces the sensors were 30psi (2bar) sensors attached to led lights on the dash. The results were shocking with pressure dropping off after around 4krpm with the water pump end the worst. I run a closed back impeller pumper this helps but cylinder 1 still runs the hottest due to flow affecting pressure were the pump delivers water to the block. There are other things that can be done also. The main issue is high speed for long periods cooking the engine internals. There's lots of high Hp melted Pistons on here. Lots and lots. Look at taggeys 5e build. Is just 1 example  

 

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22 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Oh sorry there I thought it was yours I've been digging threw loads of builds recently, the stock water pump is a really poor design. I've seen block pressure test were 4x pressure sensors sensors are drilled and fitted to the block 4x corners and in the 2x sides of the head cam belt end and thermostats end and the engine was put threw its paces the sensors were 30psi (2bar) sensors attached to led lights on the dash. The results were shocking with pressure dropping off after around 4krpm with the water pump end the worst. I run a closed back impeller pumper this helps but cylinder 1 still runs the hottest due to flow affecting pressure were the pump delivers water to the block. There are other things that can be done also. The main issue is high speed for long periods cooking the engine internals. There's lots of high Hp melted Pistons on here. Lots and lots. Look at taggeys 5e build. Is just 1 example  

 

Can you share where the results to this test are and who did it? 
I’d be interested to compare this to the data I’ve got off the dyno. 
I don’t think taggy’s problem was the water pump..plus he wasn’t high power all things considered 

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On 13 March 2020 at 6:08 PM, RobSR said:

Can you share where the results to this test are and who did it? 
I’d be interested to compare this to the data I’ve got off the dyno. 
I don’t think taggy’s problem was the water pump..plus he wasn’t high power all things considered 

Yeh I'll dig them out, the lad that had the starlet I bought did the tests and I believe tuned starlets for like 15 year+ his work is comprehensive and impressive highlighting many areas of improvement on this vehicle. The book he has handed me is like a tuning guild to the starlet. The only things I'm waiting for off him is the dyno graphs he's got, which I need so bad. He's a busy guy. Like us all. 

A fast way to show you the heat/cylinder difference is to do a plug read you can clearly see cylinder temp difference is large with cylinder 1 running the hottest threw to 4 getting progressively colder, almost needing 2x different heat range of plugs to be run its that bad. In fact the lad did exactly that. Remember the plugs are a direct way to read or tell what is going on in that perticular cylinder directly. 

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On 3/14/2020 at 8:16 PM, Sam44 said:

Yeh I'll dig them out, the lad that had the starlet I bought did the tests and I believe tuned starlets for like 15 year+ his work is comprehensive and impressive highlighting many areas of improvement on this vehicle. The book he has handed me is like a tuning guild to the starlet. The only things I'm waiting for off him is the dyno graphs he's got, which I need so bad. He's a busy guy. Like us all. 

A fast way to show you the heat/cylinder difference is to do a plug read you can clearly see cylinder temp difference is large with cylinder 1 running the hottest threw to 4 getting progressively colder, almost needing 2x different heat range of plugs to be run its that bad. In fact the lad did exactly that. Remember the plugs are a direct way to read or tell what is going on in that perticular cylinder directly. 

could you give us number diffrance on each chamber

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Yeh will do because of the coolant flow paths around 1and 2 and the pump on this end also this area was the lowest pressure point, around cylinders 3&4 were the highest and more stable threw the rpm if you look at the head gasket design and coolant flow control holes you will see why and the pattern to flow improvements in this area the block around 3&4 cylinders is a water trap area. 1 thing he didn't do and wanted to was measure block temp in this area he predicted an increase in temp but never got round to it. he repaired these cars also and has noted a lot of internal and external failures linked to this giving some compelling evidence.

If you picture flow paths from the pump up threw the head gasket control holes threw the head to the thermostate you can see the water trap around 3&4 cylinders this leads to good block pressure in this area, and all kinds of problems for the very poor water pump design.

A lad called Chris from Manchester. I believe he tunned on here for awhile around 2010. Hes moved onto more modern engines now but past all his work on these onto me. Really very in depth engine development. A lot of my info comes from his work.

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14 hours ago, JxckGlanza said:

Looking sick Josh, Joey was keeping me informed on your build to be honest. I just bought my EP91 back on with a money pit 😂.Keep us posed👍

Cheers jack glad to hear you have a glanza back again!  get a build thread up and log your progression.  

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Update:

Been a little while since i have updated this but work has been going on..  Car has not started on the link ecu yet just does not want to fire up.  We was having initial issues witht the starter not turning fast enough to get a strong start,  we was also having huge voltage drops causing the ecu to turn off after 7-10 cranks.  Looked over the car with my mates and found a few main earths were on paint with poor connections so added a HKS earth kit and cleaned up the surfaces now the starter is turing over twice as fast.  The battery that was in the car was knackered so i also bought a new battery from euros as i get trade discount at work.   

I have also been cleaning up the wiring behind the centre console and behind the steering colum I have managed to remove loads of old shit wiring that was honestly a fire hazard who ever put this wiring is did not tape up anything... exposed wires everywhere this is how much I have removed in just over an hour half of it was not even connected. 
 

I also sniped an absolute bargain and got a WEPR inlet mani with throttle body for £275! so that is expected to arrive tomorrow.  

here are a few pics of the engine bay and one of the car how it looks as it stands,  Im on lock down for 3 weeks from work so will be installing new fuel pump, intalling a new AEM wideband considering my old one burnt out.  I will also be making a new centre console section with it holding my new gauge and switches for anti lag switches and what ever else i decide.  

 

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Edited by wakeabby14
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10 hours ago, Socks said:

Some serious coin going into this dude!
Keep us all posted and I hope you get it fired up soon!

Yeah just a bit! Getting to the point now of slowing down the cash flow into it not much more i want to do and really cant afford much more haha!
Thanks mate appreciated will hopefully have videos up soon of it starting and also dyno vids. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update! 

Been a little while but not too long since my last update so here we go! 

Recently i have been a little burnt out with the car after it not starting etc so had a little break but I have started working on it again! so...

I have received my WEPR inlet manifold which i stole for a bargain price of £270 posted with throttle body and also a honda TPS sensor could not be happier with the deal i got! So i have got around to fitting that and luckily i have a few friends with honda's so managed to steal a TPS loom plug connector off my mate Jack so i can run the honda TPS with the link ECU so cheers for that mate! 

I have also been doing a bit of wire tidying up in the bay and tucked everything as best as i can, I have also fitted AN fittings to the fuel rail and removed the stock filter for an inline one.  Just need to make up the braided fuel line to finish it off on that side of things.   I have also ordered a 90' silicone elbow to sort my piping out in the bay with the change of route with the new intake manifold. 

I also decided to clean the underside of the bonnet and front main crash/support bar that folds the latch for the bonnet as it was filthy and in a bit of a bad state and letting the bay down due to years of dirt and muck clinging to it.  I have also decided to gold tape the underside of the bonnet to make it pop a bit more unfortunately I have ran out of gold tape to finish the last bits off but have ordered more just waiting on it to arrive.  

Future plans now to finish the car is...

1) Checking all timing related stuff! Cams, Cam belt etc ready for first start on the link
2) Fit walbro 255 fuel pump
3) Make new centre console panel for AEM wideband gauge and toggle switches for anti lag and other features
4) Wide in AEM wideband into Link ECU for data logging
5) Sort intercooler piping
6) Vac and clean the car
7) once garages are open again get my local exhaust specialist to modify my TD 3inch exhaust to suit my down pipe!
.8 Finally get my car rebooked for mapping with racecal will hopefully make 400+bhp! and get the running in miles done. 

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Edited by wakeabby14
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9 hours ago, mycars12 said:

Deleting the heater core? Didnt see any hoses connected to it.

 

Yeah the car has no heater controls anyway and half the airbox is missing inside the car so i have just looped the hoses on the block, plus the hoses were in the way of the new inlet mani anyway so win win! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update! 

Hello everyone again have an update to share some good news and some bad bit i will sort the bad out! 

So the engine bay is fully finished now not really anything else i want to do with it it looks amazing now that the WEPR inlet manifold is fully fitted and all the wiring is all tidied up.

So what i have done over the last week or so is i have made up a proper AN6 fuel line witha built in AN6 filter and got rid of the stock OEM fuel filter to remove clutter and also make space for the intake manifold. 

I have also wired in a new AEM wideband gauge and sensor and linked it into the linkECU and also wired up an antilag switch ready for mapping, I have also tucked the LINK ecu behind the main center console and secured the ECU mount in there by 4 screws and cut a hold in the side of the glove box for easy access for USB connection to the laptop for mapping/diag. 
Also made a switch panel for it all to go in! 

Ok so the bad bit.. 
I have been having voltage issues as stated in my last post and weird electrical bugs where the car would only crank over 5-10 times before cutting off.  SO to rule out an immobliser fault i have cut out my TOAD alarm system but now the car wont turn over and the fuel pump wont prime. I have all dash lights but nothing happens when you turn the key.  Which really sucks as i cut out over 15 wires that the alarm was connected to and now i need to trace wires around to find the fix.  I ahve my brother coming down on monday and he is an auto electrician so hopefully we find the issue.  I have been informed by a few members on here when alarms are installed the fuel pump wires and ignition wires are usually cut and bypassed to the aftermarket alarm system so fingers crossed i just need to find the 2 cut wires and route them back to the original location and it should start! Time will tell here are some photos to enjoy in the meantime of the bay LOOKS BLOODY AMAZING!  cant wait for meets this year and show it off. 

Old alarm removed

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New AN6 fuel line made with AN6 inline filter

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New center console panel made up with switches and AEM wideband! 

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Link ECU tucked behind dash and glove box USB route made

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Juicy engine bay pics!

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  • wakeabby14 changed the title to Josh's forged 5E Massive spec forged build! 370BHP!!

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