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James's 96 Glanza V


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Hi guys thought I would start a thread for my Glanza. Purchased it in October after searching for a clean one for a fair while, it was imported by dcy in 2017 and is very clean for its age. It is a White 96 spec on 150000km which is stock barring some Schneider wheels that were put on in japan and a optional extra mid spoiler. I previously owned a Yaris t sport for 2 years however I have always wanted a clean Glanza to build on and plan to keep this car for a long time.

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Edited by JamesG
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After getting the car home the following day me and a mate gave the car a quick service including an oil and filter change and new spark plugs. While doing this I noticed how tight it was at the front of the engine so a few weekends later I removed the air con and fitted a new alloy triple core civic half rad with fan and shroud to create more room to work. I had the air con system degassed and purchased a shorter belt to remove the pulley then it was just a case of removing the condenser and all of the pipework from the engine bay. I purchased a civic half rad mounting bracket kit from jd tuning on ebay to fit the rad and then just mounted the rad up to the standard starlet hoses with some new stainless hose clamps. I also found a Toyota fan plug connector on ebay which enabled me to wire the fan up to a stock plug which plugged straight into the car.

 

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Once the air con was removed I noticed I appear to have a small oil leak coming from where the sump meets the engine. I plan to try and reseal the sump to see if that solves it, if not im thinking it could be the crank seal or something else behind the timing belt cover.

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Over the next month or so I carried on making small improvements to the car. I removed the rear seats, fitted a new sunstrip, new gearknob, tinted the front fogs yellow, bought some custom mats for the car and gave the interior a good clean. DSC_0411.thumb.JPG.96eb1f7401999617650e3403268e1335.JPG

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Edited by JamesG
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Last week I was able to pick up a blitz super sound blow off valve for the Glanza and this weekend I was able to get it fitted to the car and working. I purchased a small silicone 45 degree joiner which I cut to size to fit the bov onto the stock boost pipe, I then used some 5mm vacuum hose to link the bov to the throttle body, replace the rubber actuator hose and bypass the high low boost solenoid. As the stock blow off setup vents the crankcase vapour into the intake pipe I had to fabricate a blank to sit where the stock bov goes into the intake pipe and put a 12mm engine breather on the top of the engine. In the future I plan to put on a front mount intercooler and integrate the bov into the intercooler piping but for now it looks okay and sounds great.

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  • 2 months later...

Started doing some work on my glanza recently as it has a small oil leak and I wanted to get to the bottom of it. Started gathering parts together and got the chance to get it up to my mates double garage to start tearing it down.

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I started on the gearbox side, removing the gearbox, replacing the rear crank seal, replacing the clutch for an exedy unit, replacing both gearbox mounts for polybushes, cleaning all the grime of the components and putting in back together.

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With that done and the box back on I moved onto the timing belt side of the engine and began to strip that side down. I unbolted the power steering pump and lifted it out of the way, removed the alternator, drive belts and top timing cover, turned the engine to TDC and removed the crank pulley using a harmonic balancer pulley puller which came in very useful to remove the pulley without damaging it. I was then able to double check timing marks and remove timing belt which allowed me to remove, replace and reseal the oil pump, replace the front crank seal, clean everything up and reseal the sump which was also leaking. I replaced the rubber seals that seal the oil pump to the block the top of the oil pickup and the dipstick seal and they were all like hard plastic on removal. The final engine mount was also polybushed while doing this.

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Now all i have to do is replace the water pump while im in there and put it all back together with a new timing kit, my JD tuning clear cam cover and fresh oil and coolant. Before running the car for the first time I plan to remove the efi fuse and crank the engine over to gain oil pressure before firing her up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some great progress on this james! Great to have some detailed description and plenty of photos too! So after all the replacement seals has the oil leak been fixed? Any future plans? 

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Thanks Its good to keep this forum active, I enjoy reading through peoples build threads and have learnt a lot from them. Unfortunatly due to the lockdown situation i have had to pause work on the glanza as its at my best mates house in his garage. Im dissapointed but i have very limited space to work on the car at my own house and we have a good setup in his garage to work on the cars. Hopefully we can get it finished and up and running again before too long. I am planning to keep the ct9 for now and do mods including a better exhaust manifold & exhaust, a boost gauge, a front mount intercooler, new leads and dizzy cap and a ct9 air filter kit. Then i am hoping to get some decent engine management along with a map and go from there. Love your red glanza by the way, stunning car you look very skilled with the bodywork and painting:thumbsup:

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14 hours ago, JamesG said:

Thanks Its good to keep this forum active, I enjoy reading through peoples build threads and have learnt a lot from them. Unfortunatly due to the lockdown situation i have had to pause work on the glanza as its at my best mates house in his garage. Im dissapointed but i have very limited space to work on the car at my own house and we have a good setup in his garage to work on the cars. Hopefully we can get it finished and up and running again before too long. I am planning to keep the ct9 for now and do mods including a better exhaust manifold & exhaust, a boost gauge, a front mount intercooler, new leads and dizzy cap and a ct9 air filter kit. Then i am hoping to get some decent engine management along with a map and go from there. Love your red glanza by the way, stunning car you look very skilled with the bodywork and painting:thumbsup:

Very disappointing, this whole covid situation has really put a weird spin on things. Maybe with everyone staying indoors and getting bored of facebook the forum might wake up again lol.
 

Some good plans lined up! Always good to see starlets getting some good treatment! 

Thanks James, alot of time into the car over the 5 years of ownership! Battery annoyingly keeps going flat at the minute lol.
 

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4 hours ago, BMX-RIG said:

Very disappointing, this whole covid situation has really put a weird spin on things. Maybe with everyone staying indoors and getting bored of facebook the forum might wake up again lol.
 

Some good plans lined up! Always good to see starlets getting some good treatment! 

Thanks James, alot of time into the car over the 5 years of ownership! Battery annoyingly keeps going flat at the minute lol.
 

yeah strange times, hopefully more people come back on here. Was hoping to get the car on stand at some of the shows later this year but will have to see which ones go ahead...

Batterys going flat is always frustrating haha, I try to get mine on trickle charge when possible if im not using the car seems to help them last.

Will get some more updates on here when im able to get the car back together and running again:thumbsup:

2 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Its bad this lockdown, so much could be getting done. 

Alot of mechanical skill on these cars\site. Lovely glanza v keep them updates coming. 

Thanks I know bad times, Hopefully the situation starts to impove soon. There are some great builds on here people put a lot of time and effort into these cars,  its great to be able to document your progress on here. Lots more to come:thumbsup:

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  • 1 month later...

I have managed to make some more progress on the car recently. I removed old water pump in order to fit the new one only to find when the new one was bolted up in place the pulley was stuck and wouldnt spin . Upon closer inspection i noticed the new pumps rotor appeared to be catching on the original toyota housing. Very strange anyway the old pump seemed in decent enough shape and spun freely so i bolted it back on with a new gasket. I have noticed some companies sell the full housing as a complete unit so I will probably buy one of those at some point.

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I then went about installing the new timing belt and tensioners which went fairly smoothly, Trick I used was to turn the top cam sprocket to the right very slightly. This meant when tension was put on the belt it pulled it over and both timing marks lined up perfectly, I was then able to build the timing side back up bottom timing cover, crank pulley and new alternator and power steering belts etc.

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Next i moved onto replacing the rocker cover gasket, spark plug seals and new washer seals for the nuts ontop.

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I did a few other small jobs including replacing the fuel filter, installing some polyurethane shifter bushings and installing a new silicone oil return pipe as the stock one snapped on removal.

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I then put everything from the top half of the bay back together with the addition of my jd tuning clear cam cover . I also replaced the stupid circlip thing that holds the efi pipe onto the turbo with a stainless hose clamp, made it a lot easier getting it back on properly.

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Yesterday I was able to get the car back up and running, after filling it up with oil and coolant i removed the efi fuse and cranked the engine over to gain oil pressure. This didnt work straight away so I had to remove the large banjo bolt from the oil filter housing and pour some oil down the housing into the pump. After doing this and reinstalling the bolt I cranked the engine over, the oil pressure light on the dash went out and oil started flowing out of the bottom of the turbo. I then put the front bumper back on, put the efi fuse back in and started it up leaving the rad cap off to bleed any air out of the coolant system, car is now running great with no more oil leaks.

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I was able to take the car out for a quick test run, taking it steady to bed the new clutch in. Feels great to drive and no more oil leaks. The clear cam cover also looks really good when the engine is running.

 

 

 

Edited by JamesG
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9 hours ago, stevie82 said:

Looking good man, how’s the vibration interior wise with those poly mounts ?

Thanks, there is some extra vibration inside however i dont find it that bad. It is worst when idling so I have raised the idle rpm slightly which has reduced the vibrations. My old mounts were pretty shot so it was worthwhile upgrading however i dont use the car daily. Your td04 setups looking good by the way, have made some impressive power:thumbsup:.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got some tein lowering springs fitted to the car this weekend. The front springs had seen better days but all of the shocks looked in decent condition so just replaced the springs for now.

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Pleased with the springs, the rear sits a lot better now. Planning on getting an adjustable rear panhard bar to bring the axle back into line soon. Might get some uprated shocks in the future or possibly get some coilovers.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Small update on the car, I picked up a whiteline adjustable rear panhard rod recently. I have seen that when you lower a starlet it pushes the axle over slightly to one side and thourght it was worth getting one of these to allow adjustment left and right. It was fairly simple to remove the original one from the car. I then adjusted the whiteline to the same length of the stock bar and got it bolted on, it seems a lot more sturdy than the stock bar which is quite light in comparison.

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I then lowered the car back down and measured the distance between the wheel and arch on both sides as best i could. I figured it was around about 10mm further out on the passenger side, So i shortened the bar by 5mm and lowered it again. It now seems to measure up okay and if you look down the line of the car the wheels look even on each side. I know this needs doing properly on a wheel allignment machine but looking to get a decent wheel allignment when im finished with the suspension. The car feels a lot better already with the springs and panhard bar, feels more stable and planted.

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Also painted my brake calipers to freshen them up as they were looking a bit tired. Decided to go red as thourght it would look good against the grey wheels. Started on the fronts, wanted to do a decent job so dissasambled the brakes removing the pads, clips and carriers. I gave the calipers and carriers a good clean and sanded them down before giving them a few coats of k2 brake caliper paint. The car has had a set of pagid disks and pads recently so no need to change them just yet.

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Pleased with how they came out I did the rear calipers the following weekend.

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Really pleased with how they came out, spent quite a bit of time prepping and masking etc but was worth it for a good job. Noticed I am missing two of the metal clips that hold the brake pads in place on the rear calipers but found a replacement full set on amayama for fairly cheap https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/0494816010. Thanks for reading

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Edited by JamesG
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  • 3 weeks later...

Been working on getting my new front mount intercooler on the glanza over the last couple of weeks, I picked up a short route hot side pipe off glanzadude and bought the long route japspeed front mount intercooler kit. I was able to make up my own short route hot side piping by combining the hot pipe I purchased and some of the japspeed long route pipes. I also had to have a blow off valve fitting welded onto the cold side piping by a local welder, so I can run my blitz BOV.

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I then went about getting the intercooler mounted to the car. The brackets were provided in the kit, the top one bolted to the bonnet latch and the bottom two had to be fixed to the front cross member. To do this I used some rivinut fixings as i could not get in to put a nut on the other side of the box section. I was then able to drop the intercooler on and bolt it up.

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Next I pieced together all of the intercooler pipework on the car and tightened all the clamps up. I had to buy an air filter relocation kit as the standard efi pipe would not fit with the hot side pipework, so I got that installed and attached my blow off valve to the pipework. Some longer studs were also required to bolt the new hot pipe to the turbo, as it had a slighly thicker flange.

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Now everything was bolted up it was time to try my front bumper back on, I was worried about having to cut a lot of the bumper away to fit the cooler behind, however it was not as bad as expected. I had to trim the bottom of the bumper for the pipework and cooler. Only a small amount of trimming was required either side of the plate for the endtanks.

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Really pleased with how it has turned out, the bay is a lot more decluttered, I think it looks a lot cleaner and there is a lot more access to the top of the engine. The car now sounds amazing, you can hear the turbo spool up with the relocation kit and the blow off valve seems to sound better being located closer to the throttle body. I am conscious i need to replace the stock exhaust manifold as soon as I can, because of the restriction in the third runner. The boost will probably have crept up with these mods so taking it easy untill i get my boost gauge plumbed in and a better flowing manifold.

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I also replaced the silicone oil return hose with a genuine one, as oil was starting to seep through the silicone. It seems silicone dosent work well with oil. Crazy how much more flexible the new genuine hose was to the original one that snapped in half when I tried to remove it.

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Edited by JamesG
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