Sam44 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) Good Morning all. Over the weekend I've removed the power steering rack and pump and installed a none power rack. I've also removed the water pump to install a closed back impeller to a new pump for better quality engine block pressure's. I've installed a egt sensor and boost gauge also. I'm loving Woking on this Toyota so easy and simple. Beats working on my clio sport by a long way. Does any 1 know if there has been a duel fuel starlet before. At work the latest tech is dual fuel (lng or cng) its run along side petrol and desile to reduce emissions and reduce the amount of petrol used. On vans and trucks we are seeing big gains in fuel economy and power. Edited May 6, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) WANTED: ROLLA INLET MANIFOLD. MONEY WAITING. Thanks. Also does any 1 have experience putting pressure threw 1 of these. Edited January 14, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) QUESTION: for any 200+hp runners. What's your mpg figures please and hp. Thanks in advance. Edited July 13, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) Has any one run one of these. I'm thinking of ordering it ASAP with the Honda listed sensor that will screw directly into the engine block were the 4efte knock sensor goes Nock gauge. Bellow picture and link. Other gauges I've installed Fuel pressure. Boost pressure Exhaust temp Wide band lamba All with peak and minimum alarms set. Analog and digital readout displays nock/det detection devices. https://www.fensport.co.uk/products/knocklink-g4-with-loom-sensor?_pos=1&_sid=33783d1db&_ss=r https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Knock-gauge-for-detonation-sensor-klopfsensor-NEW-with-output/183855557123?epid=570646800&hash=item2acea52a03:g:wmYAAOSw7aBVBEom Edited February 23, 2021 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maerijn Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 thats pretty cool, havent seen that before Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted January 23, 2020 Author Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) Yeh there very good. Also handy when road mapping. Which I always find better than dyno mapping. Real world environment. I'll put up a how to road map your car and what your looking for over the course of a year, running threw the four seasons as well as altitude change. Edited January 23, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Just picked up a 5e block and 2x cranks for £75 I've also got a V3 mega squirt with 4bar map sensor built in for peanuts. There's some bargains out there for these motors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) My gauges fitted for stealthy easy read. Just my nockgauge and wideband to fit. Edited February 4, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 10, 2020 Author Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) Any ideas. I'm after a front brake conversion, tell me what you know. I'm not after dual action calipers. singal action sliding calipers will do for the weight and target speeds I'm going for, but preferably twin pots so as to more evenly spread the braking force across the disc. Plus I'm wanting to keep rotational anertia to a minimal so only slightly bigger brake discs if possible or the same diameter would be amazing. I'm also after a brake bias valve so as I can remove the crappy Toyota pressure bias valve. I'm sick of how loose the rear end feels in the corners and how quick the fronts lock up it's all over wrong I need more in corner control. So what setups are out there???. I was out at Toyota breakers yesterday and I've found avencise twin pot calipers on bigger Corolla pad carriers and pads and MR2 MK1 discs. Also found a mitsubishi carisma bigger master cylinder on line to reduce pedal travel\stroke now I'm using larger callipers. But I'm interested in what everyone else has or knows about. So post up what you know. Edited February 11, 2020 by Sam44 More info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 12, 2020 Author Share Posted February 12, 2020 (edited) In the evolution of the design on the drawing board. I started to compose the ic circuitry that will control the antilag and fine tune the torque output. In this area of development I started to realise the true benefits of being able to alter fueling and control air intake flow for different driving conditions. A quick example is the mechanical fuel regulator working in a electronic fuel control environment raising fuel pressure by upto .5bar on only light traffic throttling. This has the added affect of delaying the engine control management's ability the quickly hit fueling targets affecting mpg and costing power delivery, and if your turbo delivers boost early under say 3krpm this will be more like 1bar of fuel increase totally unessersery for these driving conditions. This idea was handed to me by the previous owner ho called it a fuel pressure standoff valve and is used on the 3sge and gte engine along side the acis manifold. Truly amazed by the results of using a basic system. Spool time in reduced noticably. As I got with the lag control system and I start to affect boost pressure delivery rates as well as air intake velocity increases at lower rpm I quickly became aware that under certain driving conditions I could increase and equally decrease engine air intake volumes affecting fueling in a economical capacity. Then came the introduction of a rpm switch into to design because I'm running a close ratio six speed gearbox with short gears spreading the load more evenly threw the rpm as I increase road speeds, and the weight of the vehicle with the low rpm engine power (hp and torque) available. things started to come apparent that I could use three cylinders instead of four in low engine load driving conditions as well as at Cruz on motorways saving quite abit of fuel. Just at the present I find myself driving around on three cylinders testing this idea I've placed a relay in the injection wiring giving me the ability to turn off number 1 cylinder because this cylinder produces the least power and runs the hottest. Getting some very good mpg figures already. And I'm finding 1st and 2nd gear more usable and efficient at low road speeds. The idea of the rpm switch came from my research into the reliability areas of this engine uncovering the common engine failure of cylinder three and one pinpointed down the 4efte power manifold design unevenly delivering power across the four cylinders plus the already stretched fuel delivery system mainly the fuel injector rail. Other things like the basic coolant system becoming quickly over loaded at high engine loads and environment temperature. With most of the failures happening in August and September. Any thoughts about this. Edited March 25, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted February 23, 2020 Author Share Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) Update the new hyb turbo is built and back from being balanced. The design I've previously mentioned. Ive also ordered the ic logic chips. I'm using cmos 12v logic, opamps, sensors and switches. and looking at 240v tig weilders so I can start fabricating alloy parts mainly intake power box and front air filter box. Edited February 23, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChaseWheatley Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 That’s a lot to take in there buddy...Note to self.. Don’t read your stuff when I’m sleepy 🤣 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) On 3/23/2020 at 11:34 AM, ChaseWheatley said: That’s a lot to take in there buddy...Note to self.. Don’t read your stuff when I’m sleepy 🤣 Yeh sorry chase. it's all because of what I do. there's a lot of things I forget others will struggle with. im going to document the starlets development, comfortably predicting step by step the results that will be seen. it's just the level of the results which will determine the clear development path. Speed and fuel efficency. As soon as the good weather is here I will start to get dyno results up and plot this path with targets on power, efficiency and mph times. Developing every area of the vehicle keeping it as simple as possible with a cap on budget and topend speed, and keep the starlet looking as close to original as I can (sleeper). Ive recently bourght another starlet and have a 5efe engine I'm thinking about developing for a little track (fun) amateur competionen. Because of the age of the vehicle there's a lot of documented evidence on two main websites. With a great range of turbo and setup data/info. The level of engine failure is alarming with all 250+Hp builds. I've not read a single one yet that didn't seem to have not finished in engine failure. From track cars to competion, strip and fast road. Linking builds on hear with you tube videos. Edited April 13, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 (edited) Over the past two weeks I've been busy putting some ideas into action? This involves improving the base to mid range power levels on the setup I'm running. Smoothening out the power graph. Also giving great throttle control. I've made a adaptor plate to fit this the Audi 80 sport twin plate throttle body to the 5efe inlet manifold I'm currently running. This has a 45deg angle introduced into the adaptor plate so as to ramp the intake air charge across the manifolds back chamber wall so as to feed cylinders 1 & 2 better improving cylinder power balance. I have had to switch back to the ae101 gen1 4e ECU because the Audi throttle tps works with this ecu. At a later date I will convert the Audi tps to the ep 91 UK tps and switch back the ECU this has a better fueling map. Edited April 13, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 (edited) I've also fitted the map sensors directly to the inlet manifold this has improved the fueling response to throttle position to a near 1:1 response time. Because of this I'm now running a fixed fuel pressure of 3.6bar giving great fuel atomisation but working them injectorsn a little harder, I really need to cool them down. I've also ordered a fuel cooler and high flow fuel filter to fit under the chassis. 40 degc tank temps recorded and 58deg fuel filter temps recorded. I'm also going to get a inlet manifold gasket that's made of a material that will insulate the inlet from engine heat (heat soak) if any one can point me in the right direction for 1 of these gaskets. I've just hit .9bar of boost pressure and also fitted a set of glanza 295cc denso gray injectors that have come back from cleaning and testing. I've just sent a set of 370cc light green 3sge injectors off to be cleaned and tested they will be fitted next. At around 1.1bar of boost pressure I predict. The heat range 6 plugs are still looking good\cool for 1bar of boost. After a recent long test run and read. I'll fit the C4 64kv coil at 1bar of boost also and swap the platinum tip heat range 6 plugs for a set of standard domed head heat range 6 plugs. Edited April 13, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzagee Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 http://www.ferriday.co.uk/thermal-products/ his made them in the past.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 14, 2020 Author Share Posted April 14, 2020 I have these install to the front edge of my roof and at the tte spoiler edge. I'm playing with the idea of making some for inside the inlet manifold. Positioned at the straight section aiming at the injectors. This should increase air speed and help mix the fuel charge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glanzagee Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 flaps directing air ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 Yeh F1 cars use directional slits and winglets to stop air spilling out of the sides trapping it under the car and forcing it threw the rear defuser. They also use chassis rake as way of helping the diffuser and using the underside of the flat chassis as a diffuser. Great videos and the starlet needs these items there shape is a big problem especially the ep82. Speeds over 100mph are affected the most. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) This explains the shape of the diffuser and how increasing air volume and Velocity increases its effects. Mainly from the front feeding the underside so splitter and air dam design a key area. Touches on the video you posted above (air spillage) in the video above as soon as the water starts to spill over the spoons edges it's hit its peak point this is mainly down to the effects of the spill areas. Because of the hydrogen in the water the water has a property called surface tension. Which has a greater affect. So every effort must be made to maximize areo dynamics Edited April 18, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) Edited April 18, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) The picture above shows how we use flaps to direct more air from the front under the chassis to increase the diffuser effectiveness. Look at the flaps in the center of the picture running length ways on the bottom of the nose cone. Look how they direct air under and threw the chassis. From the center of the front wing this also helps lesson air spill from the sides of the chassis. I should not really be talking about this. So I'm going to stop here. Edited April 18, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BurtEP82 Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 All interesting stuff sam but let us see the progress on your car! I’ve been watching with anticipation 👍🏻 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sam44 Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 (edited) I'll get some pictures up very soon I've just ordered side skirts a turbo spoiler and number plate surround for rear. I've cleaned up the body also and put some 15 inch alloys I had in the garage on. looks a different car I've also lowwered it alittle on the vw coilover conversion following Colin's advice on the topic. As soon as the side skirts go on and afew other bits done I'll get pictures up. And it's booked in for a Dyno run the first week of June. This will be with a stock td04l 13t on a basic setup. Then I'll put the mods on and hybrid turbo and start to show the gains on further Dyno runs. I just ripped my back gearbox mount off today. I've been working on my standing launch all week. How's yours coming on. You where really starting to progress on. Edited April 19, 2020 by Sam44 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChaseWheatley Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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