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Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)


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4 hours ago, burty said:

All coming together nicely mate one of the best builds on here amongst some absolute belters aswell the bar seems to be set extremely high at the moment 

 

28 minutes ago, JamesG said:

Looks awesome Claymore, super clean. Keep it coming :thumbsup:.

Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to the next part of the build

 

Edited by Claymore
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4efte cast exhaust manifold porting.

Its no secret that the stock exhaust manifold has some "issues" regarding flow. In the interests of saving money I decided to go old school and port a cast manifold for the turbo install.

So.... included in the turbo bundle was a manifold. Using the double nut method (tightening one nut to another to lock them to the stud) I removed the turbo mounting studs. WD40 and some bravery got them out fine, was dreading a snapped stud but all good in the end. Had to remove them to allow access with the die grinder rather than being restricted by the 4 x studs.

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Decided to do the easy, clean up stuff first, so removed the seam from the inside of the turbo flange. (We'll all be ignoring the 2 x hairline cracks from now on please)

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Not much to remove so I opted for the grinding stone on the dremmel. It shows the different size and shapes of the runner exits quite well.

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Also de seamed the outside of it with an angle grinder and sanding disc to generally tidy it up.

Edited by Claymore
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Then I moved on to the main event, the obstructions in runners 2, 3 errrr 1 and 4!

Used an air die grinder with a long and short carbide burr to remove the majority of the material. Size was 10mm diameter x 20mm length round nose. Good size and the round nose is always useful in confined spaces. Grinder for stage 2 and sanding drum to finish.

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View of no. 3 runner restriction, I removed the green arrow restriction and left the red arrow lump as is because that section of the mani is only approx. 6mm thick.

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No. 1 runner had excess material here narrowing the runner. After removal.

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No. 2 runner had a lump where the stud is mounted, not as bad as 3 but still needed to be removed. Not easy as you can only see it from the turbo side so had to attack it from both ends. Using the long burr, my best judgment and lots of feeling around I managed to remove the other half of the lump from the head side of the mani. After removal.

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No. 3 largest lump under the stud. Easy to remove from both sides with the carbide burr. After removal.

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No. 4 runner same as no. 1. Excess material narrowing the runner. After removal.

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Edited by Claymore
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Turbo flange side after, grinding and sanding. Much more balanced for port size. Decided to leave the cross in, I know some people used to remove them for max. flow but not required on this build so I left it in for strength and to help prevent the exhaust pulses firing down the opposing runner.

Rounded off the sharp edges of the cross to remove stress risers and try and prevent new cracking.

Generally smoothed out inside runner exits to help flow.

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No.3 runner restriction removed.

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When removing the lump from runner 2 it always breaks through into the bottom of the threaded stud hole. Not very much though and the stud can be sealed in to prevent leakage which once tightened should be minimal anyway.

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Same for runner 3 but to a slightly larger amount.

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All in all pleased with the result. Once you start looking at the stock manifold it is quite easy to see where the work needs to be done. The Carbide burr was like a knife through butter and the whole process took about 3 hours max. and I was taking it slow to prevent mistakes. Using a grinding stone would have taken days. Just need to sand blast it and paint VHT black when we're allowed out to play again. Might also look at refinishing the mating surfaces of the flanges too.

:drinks:

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48 minutes ago, glanzadude said:

There is great information on this about the suspension, thanks for your time. Great work on the car coming along nicely 

Thanks mate :drinks:

The whiteline products are good on the whole but the instructions are vague at best and non existent in the case of the panhard rod.

If it helps prevent other people having problems it's all worth the effort to write up my experiences. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well its been a while since I updated the thread. I've been quite busy with other projects, mainly DIY. The problem was the power supply to my garage crapped out a few months ago and with the coming winter temps. and lack of light it became top priority to work in a warm, well lit environment over the coming months. Long story short after digging a 20m trench from the house to garage with a spade so the conduit and armoured cable could be laid, wiring it in and then the immense fun of filling the same fucking trench back in I have restored the power situation. 💪🤨

Been gathering parts / information still for the turbo install and thought in the concept of completeness that I would buy a glanza 4efte inlet manifold to investigate.

As delivered, covered in old oil and dirt, did include the air transfer pipe for the IACV and about 200mm of the throttle cable outer which had been cut through rather than unbolted 😏.

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You've seen me clean plenty of stuff before, but this time I opted for gunk spray degreaser, foam type and normal. It seems to have done an adequate job at removing the dirt and grime but the only word of warning is it smells like paraffin so the overspray on my fleece and other clothing is still present after 2 washes in the machine! 

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Much more presentable, matches the rest of the engine. The plated steel fittings were in excellent condition also.

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The corolla manifold came in for some more attention, the VHT paint I had used required approx. 200 deg C to cure (always read the label!) otherwise the paint never fully adheres / cures and wipes off at the first hint of oil or petrol etc. I didn't fancy ravaging it with the heat gun so.... I stripped the paint off with brake cleaner and a rag (very easily) and the repainted using acid etch primer onto the bare metal and regular rattle can satin black for the top coat. Also stripped the injectors and the manifold mounting brackets of VHT paint too. Lesson learned, VHT for exhaust manifolds only.

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Half painted during the summer when temps. were suitable for spraying.

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Edited by Claymore
More dimensions / manifold info added
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Also have been looking into the wiring side of things for the piggyback. Long story short, I managed to get hold of the Toyota wiring manual for the 96/97 EP91 and comparing it to the ecu pinouts available on line it became apparent that there were some errors on the ones available for both wire position and its intended purpose.

Made this version which I am confident to use for my build. If I didn't know the purpose of the wire I used the description detailing where the wire went to, so as not to guess and continue the bullshit as found in other online versions (some have descriptions relating to 4efte ignition setup etc.)!

Although the manual says that some wires are for automatic transmission vehicles the wire was present on my loom at the ECU even though its a manual. The A/C wiring is also present even though mine doesn't have A/C. I believe Toyota decided to use a loom with all the harness features to make provision for all the options available.

The ECU part number is: 211000-4550

 

Starlet EP91 4efe MT 211000-4550 pinout.jpg

Might be of use to some.

Edited by Claymore
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  • 3 weeks later...

Catch can time.

Decided to use one catch can between the turbo inlet pipe and non PCV outlet on the rocker cover. I'm not worried about oil vapours being drawn into the combustion process at cruise and idle, however not keen on them entering the turbo / intercooler. Also wanted to keep the crankcase under vac on boost.

So obviously chose the cheapest can I could find on eBay to use / modify. I chose the 15mm nozzle version and the bore is 10mm which matches up with the rocker cover outlet bore more closely. The obvious let down was the piece of garden hose supplied with it didn't fit over the nozzles, oh well!

First needed to tidy up the existing machining work, mainly deburring the fixing holes for the screws and nozzles:

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Pretty rough on the nozzle entries to the lid.

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De burred the entry to the screw counterbores, entry to the nozzle ports. Cleaned the loose swarf out of the nozzles and deburred the bores.

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Used a combination of dremel drum sander and a stanley knife for the majority of the work. Aluminium is quite soft and cuts easily.

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Edited by Claymore
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Catch can baffle

As the can was completely devoid of any baffling I decided to separate the can in half with a central divider baffle, with some lower horizontal baffles. Didn't fancy using stainless scourers (too much chance of shrapnel) and as the flow through the can will have to change direction it needs to be able to flow both ways. Also needs to produce as little pressure drop along the way as possible.

Off boost, clean air is drawn from the intake pipe pre turbo, through the can and into the the crankcase and onto the intake manifold; on boost the PCV shuts and crankcase vapours are drawn out through the can (where the oil and water droplets are separated from the air) and into the intake pipe pre turbo. Same as stock setup with the addition of catch can.

Made a paper template on graph paper and cut a blank from a piece of scrap alu I had lying around with tin snips.

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Marked out an drilled the lower holes, these will be used in the lower 3rd of the can to reduce the liquids captured from sloshing around under cornering and accel / decel. Marked out some more holes.

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Drilled the holes I marked out and hole swaged some of the lower holes for added strength to the relatively thin plate of alu. 

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Drilled and tapped the lid to accept the central baffle fixing screw. Needed all the thickness available hence the thru hole. Also allows the use of a longer screw to attach a lock nut on the outside (belt and braces).

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Test fitted to lid.

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Made some lower baffles using the card gasket as a template.

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Marked and drilled said baffles. Then went onto fold the tabs in the vice and swage the larger holes for strength.

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Assembled the lower baffles to the central baffle.

The idea is that oil vapours enter the can on one side of the central divider flowing down and have to turn 180 degrees whilst travelling through the holes and exit the can on the other side. During the turn some larger contaminants will be thrown from the air (centrifugal force) and the remaining vapours will condense on the can / plates and baffles. The horizontal baffles are more to keep the liquids restrained but also offer additional surface area to condense upon. These baffles can be mounted higher up towards the solid baffle section if needs be.

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Test fit no. 47 into can, finally filed to shape with minimal clearance all round.

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Ready to be cleaned, before final assembly. Should perform better than the empty can I started with. Can always add more baffles if required.

Edited by Claymore
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  • 2 weeks later...

I added more baffles......

Treated myself to a new toy for the workshop. It's the generic Chinese disc / belt sander combo that is for sale under many different brands. Deffo not industrial strength but more than capable for hobby level machining. 370w motor, 150mm disc and 100mm wide belt with a usable 100 x 300mm area. (tilts too). Will be a great replacement for the man powered files I've been using for the past 20 odd years!

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So with the new capabilities bolted to the bench and the Claymore industries patented dangle poise lamp temporarily installed, I set about making some pieces of metal smaller. 

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Bought some perforated sheet to save the additional work of drilling the holes myself. 1.1mm alu sheet with 3mm holes and 1.5mm alu with 10mm holes.

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Not so many photos this time, but I chose the central hole on one row of the mesh disc as the fixing point and used this as my datum to mark out the shape. Cut out roughly with tin snips, sanded close to shape and finished off by hand. Folded in the vice. Bolted to top row of central baffle holes.

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Did the same with the 3mm perforated disc. The only problem that arose was when drilling the mounting hole it breaks through into the existing holes making a "petal" shape, easily covered by a large washer but I don't really like bits that small.

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Once mounted in the can it provides another surface to condense vapours upon without impeding flow.

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May try the 3mm baffle version instead or as well as depending on how this version performs.

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Deffo quicker to make the parts this time around. :drinks:

Edited by Claymore
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  • 2 weeks later...

4efte inlet manifold throttle body plate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnosFMkKSOk

The throttle body mounting surface of the 4efte and 4efe / corolla manifold differ in shape to correspond to the shape of the throttle body. So to fit a 4efe throttle body to a fte manifold requires an adapter plate making. Essentially it is the same outer size as the gasket with holes as required.

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Linished to 81mm square, I drew round the gasket for the lower edge detail and linished the corner features and also rounded the edges to approx. 3mm. Mounting holes drilled to 8.5mm

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Don't have the correct hole saw size available so old school chain drilling was the order of the day. Drew round an appropriate size socket for the drill hole PCD. Centre punched the drill points.

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Chain drilled the holes to 10mm and then scribed the throttle body hole onto the plate. Decided on 47(ish)mm as the manifold is 50mm and the throttle body is 45mm. Wrapped the edges in masking tape to prevent the vice marking the sealing surfaces.

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Sawed out the centre of the hole (this appears to have angered it!)

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Filed out to 48mm (ish).

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Smoothed the cut edges with wet n dry, and finished the sealing faces also to remove any deeper scratches it had picked up. Test fit to manifold, hole centres line up as does central hole.

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Gasket on, paper disc is 45mm to simulate throttle body hole. Plenty of clearance in the plate.20210119_101245.jpg

Pleased with the results. All dimensions were within 0.5mm of requirement which is good for a hand made piece.

Edited by Claymore
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  • Claymore changed the title to Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (aka the Nanza)
  • Claymore changed the title to Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)

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