Jump to content

Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)


Recommended Posts

26 minutes ago, Claymore said:

For my power goals I'll be using the "old favourite" Walbro 255lph with glanza 295cc's at stock fuel pressure. Might try and find a new glanza fpr (if they still make them) as my stock 4efe one is probably a bit tired by now. If nla I might add an adjustable fpr if I need more fuel. I've done a bit of reading up and it seems 300cc ish injectors are ok for 200 ish bhp at 85% duty.

Seems a bit odd that you need to run such a large injector (372cc) and increased fuel pressure with 2 fuel pumps? 

Not really., But the cheaper kemso fuel pump already fitted to the vehicle did have me worried at the time & still second guessing myself. 

keep me posted On what you get, I always like to compare.  I didn't take the 295cc 4efte over 80% for reliability reasons.  From the information out there I should see an improvement in duty with the 2xfuel pumps. Only time will tell, its been delivered I just need to rewire them in. 

If I remember correctly the 3sge 2ltr the 372cc light green injectors are off is 170-180hp factory. 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 296
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sam said: "Not really., But the cheaper kemso fuel pump already fitted to the vehicle did have me worried at the time & still second guessing myself. 

keep me posted On what you get, I always like to compare.  I didn't take the 295cc 4efte over 80% for reliability reasons.  From the information out there I should see an improvement in duty with the 2xfuel pumps. Only time will tell, its been delivered I just need to rewire them in. 

If I remember correctly the 3sge 2ltr the 372cc light green injectors are off is 170-180hp factory. "

 

I'll believe you on that, but what fuel pressure and duty cycle were they used at? As we know the larger the injector the more coarse the adjustments become where one click in the piggyback fuel table site might be the difference between rich and lean.

It just seems most people tuning the glanza's don't need such measures to make the same bhp. Not knocking what you've done or where you're at. :friends:. Your project has quite a lot of stipulations for max power with excellent fuel economy etc. so its not the usual build. (Don't forget to update your build thread! Lots of pics please)

Wouldn't want to run an injector over 80% either for safety reasons anyway. 

Yes, inherited uprated fuel pump may be a concern, not knocking them as a brand but it could be tired. Always one of the items to refresh for me. If you've got the Walbro (255lph?) why not just replace the kemso and see what happens? Could be done by this afternoon and at least you'll know.

I'll give it a go as planned and see the results. Can always go up in pressure or injectors at a later date. :thumbsup:

 

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Claymore said:

I'll believe you on that, but what fuel pressure and duty cycle were they used at? As we know the larger the injector the more coarse the adjustments become where one click in the piggyback fuel table site might be the difference between rich and lean.

It just seems most people tuning the glanza's don't need such measures to make the same bhp. Not knocking what you've done or where you're at. :friends: Your project has quite a lot of stipulations for max power with excellent fuel economy etc. so its not the usual build. (Don't forget to update your build thread! Lots of pics please)

Wouldn't want to run an injector over 80% either for safety reasons anyway. 

I'll give it a go as planned and see the results. Can always go up in pressure or injectors at a later date. :thumbsup:

Factory 3sge is 3bar at idle, the same pressure I've recorded on a stock GT ct9 at idle. It would be great if you could double check yours for an overall prospective for me\us.

I did run a second hand factory 4efte fpr and pump to see what I got and again 3bar, with a max presure of 3.2bar.

The injectors didn't measure any flow increase over 4bar, so my pressure is set at 3.6bar fixed because of the improvements seen on the afr table (closer figures) and on the spark plugs. The spark plugs and fuel pressure were mainly setup on egt and exhaust gas analyser co and hc were monitored closely with egt. Wide band figures become alittle unreliable on heat range 7 plugs and low fuel pressures (cylinder mixing & flame propergation) leading to a sharp and steady increase in egt and co (fuel burning in the exhaust and not in the cylinder) this could be seen on the kv spark duration times on the scope not being affected at all with the sharp increases in egt (cylinder temps in relation to exhaust temps) 

Yeh I was very surprised with all the figures I've seen. against what the standard template of tunning the 4efte is things like spark plugs, fuel pressures, and Crank pullys ext, but there have been some of the more experienced people with these helping guild things long. Unfortunately no longer active on here. 

The fuel pumps I'm not sure if I'll photo because the piping is a figure of eight shape X2 to the "Y" joint, does not look the best. I've used 2xdifferent pumps because the kemso pressure relief valve does not seem to operate allowing crazy pressures from this pump. I'm having to try this dual pump setup because I'm reading a fuel pressure drop in the fuel rail at 5krpm and above. This does not seem to be caused by the kemso pump. I will firstly to the single walbro and test to see if the pressure drop is still present using this pump brand new from demon tweaks, as suggested I can increase fueling to mask this on the Map but this impacts mpg and egt

I'll get lots of pictures of all other mods the throttle and C4 external coil look good also the c64 box mods. 

 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

Factory 3sge is 3bar at idle, the same pressure I've recorded on a stock GT ct9 at idle. It would be great if you could double check yours for an overall prospective for me\us.

I did run a second hand factory 4efte fpr and pump to see what I got and again 3bar, with a max presure of 3.2bar.

The injectors didn't measure any flow increase over 4bar, so my pressure is set at 3.6bar fixed because of the improvements seen on the afr table (closer figures) and on the spark plugs. The spark plugs and fuel pressure were mainly setup on egt and exhaust gas analyser co and hp were monitored closely with egt. Wide band figures become alittle unreliable on heat range 7 plugs and low fuel pressures (cylinder mixing & flame propergation) leading to a sharp and steady increase in egt and co (fuel burning in the exhaust and not in the cylinder).

Yeh I was very surprised with all the figures I've seen. against what the standard template of tunning the 4efte is things like spark plugs, fuel pressures, and Crank pullys ext, but there have been some of the more experienced people with these helping guild things long. Unfortunately no longer active on here. 

The fuel pumps I'm not sure if I'll photo because the piping is a figure of eight shape X2 to the "Y" joint, does not look the best. I've used 2xdifferent pumps because the kemso pressure relief valve does not seem to operate allowing crazy pressures from this pump. 

I'll get lots of pictures of all other mods the throttle and C4 external coil look good also the c64 box mods. 

 

Wierd about the stock 4efte fuel pressure at idle.

Is the 3 bar recorded with the vac line connected or disconnected?

Most say idle pressure is 2.4 bar. If that's with vac connected it seems about right for 3 bar vac line disconnected.

And yes, I knew there was a point where the pressure increase has a detrimental effect on flow, also worries about the affect on pattern too. If I can figure out the gauge plumbing with extra banjo and twin feed bolt I'll let you know the pressure results.

Trying not to worry about it. Lol.

If the Kemso is questionable just bin it, twin Wally's for the win!

 

 

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites
45 minutes ago, Claymore said:

Wierd about the stock 4efte fuel pressure at idle.

Is the 3 bar recorded with the vac line connected or disconnected?

Most say idle pressure is 2.4 bar. If that's with vac connected it seems about right for 3 bar vac line disconnected.

And yes, I knew there was a point where the pressure increase has a detrimental effect on flow, also worries about the affect on pattern too. If I can figure out the gauge plumbing with extra banjo and twin feed bolt I'll let you know the pressure results.

Trying not to worry about it. Lol.

If the Kemso is questionable just bin it, twin Wally's for the win!

 

 

I was getting all kind of base figures from people so I decided to test it my self the lowest I've found is 2.8 bar on a 4efe fuel reg. I discounted this reading as the reading wasn't stable and I put this down to a faulty factory fpr. all the base figures are throttle closed vacume attached. Fuel atomisation/pattern only improves with higher pressures with 3.6bar a sweet spot. 

Only until I got more good reviews than bad on kemso did I decide to keep it. In all honesty its looking better than the walbro, but at least I've got both in there to help. I'm rewiring/wiring in high amp relay and cables with earth return to battery, controled off the standard fuel pump relay output. I'm also going to be running a higher capacity battery positioned at the passengers feet. 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, Claymore said:

Thanks for the info. 

The 2.8 bar base pressure adds up to quite a high fuel pressure if 1 bar of boost reference is added!

Interesting stuff.

Not when you realise the standard reg only hits 3.2bar increase. But definitely if you decide to run a 1:1 reference regulator (raising rate) you start realising how all these figures above play into each other. Also the corrola inlet charge Velocity should really improve low rpm fuel mixing so lower idle fuel pressures can be had. 

Most VW factory and other manufacturers common rail top feed injectors base pressure is 3bar. So I'm not surprised at the reading. 

On a tf035 on a 4efe with the average ukso setup, I estimate figures of 160hp to be had. Using your own aprouch (corrola inlet manifold and 4efte inlet cam, external gate) you could push this further. Bevery careful running anything above this level you need to monitor alot more than wide band readout. If you are aiming for more than 170hp I'd recommend running the td0413t higher or other equivalent turbo's should reach 190hp on the ukso setup. Alot of engines if not most fail!!! 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

But definitely if you decide to run a 1:1 reference regulator (raising rate) you start realising how all these figures above play into each other. 

This was the scenario I was describing. 

1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

On a tf035 on a 4efe with the average ukso setup, I estimate figures of 160hp to be had. Using your own aprouch (corrola inlet manifold and 4efte inlet cam, external gate) you could push this further. Bevery careful running anything above this level you need to monitor alot more than wide band readout. If you are aiming for more than 170hp I'd recommend running the td0413t higher or other equivalent turbo's should reach 190hp on the ukso setup. Alot of engines if not most fail!!! 

I've been set on the TF + corolla mani combo for a while now as I feel it will provide the power delivery and level I want. Power figures are what I was aiming for (and spoke to Tuning developments about it and they say that 160 ish with the TD04 was what they achieved on an fe + t). I do have a TD04l 13t as well and they both fit the same manifold so could easily be trialled. As said I can always add fuel pressure (within limits) or increase injector size if necessary and I will be data logging and monitoring AFR's for setup. 

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Claymore said:

This was the scenario I was describing. 

I've been set on the TF + corolla mani combo for a while now as I feel it will provide the power delivery and level I want. Power figures are what I was aiming for (and spoke to Tuning developments about it and they say that 160 ish with the TD04 was what they achieved on an fe + t). I do have a TD04l 13t as well and they both fit the same manifold so could easily be trialled. As said I can always add fuel pressure (within limits) or increase injector size if necessary and I will be data logging and monitoring AFR's for setup. 

 

I would love to see the corrola inlet tfo35 using the speed vision cams. I recon this setup will produce equal if not more power levels than the td04l and equally beat it in mph/rpm figures. Have a very impressive torque graph.

On standard td04l and tfo35 any more power than 160hp lsd really starts be become a necessity other wise mph times just start to slide backwards. This is another reason why I'm spreading out the boost/power for control. 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites

Of course it was C 😱

4efte Cam cover baffle removal:

First had to remove the baffle plates, centre punched the riveted aluminium posts on the cam cover to prevent the drill bit slipping.

20200704_110520.jpg

When the parts arrived the PCV valve showed clear evidence of sand blasting erosion, first sign of trouble. The second was the rattling sound when you moved the cam cover and sand fell out!

20200603_143540.jpg

All rivets punched ready to drill

20200704_110527.jpg

Drilled the heads off the centre 2 first with an 8mm bit as these hold a mini drip tray onto the cam cover. (Note the 3 holes in the upper baffle plate that release oil onto the "trays" of the mini baffle.)

20200704_111025.jpg

Drilled the remaining rivets off, had to use a small drum sander and burr to help out but eventually freed the baffle plate, thankfully virtually unmarked. Note the card gasket from the factory install.

20200704_114716.jpg

Mystery item turned out to be the tip of a previous PCV valve. Obviously had been replaced and snapped off in the process, left for me to find. Thanks :shok:. Large enough not to be able to escape into engine but may have impeded the flow around the PCV area.

20200704_114730.jpg

Deffo been sand blasted then.

20200704_114816.jpg

Plenty of it stuck to the oil residue on the cover.

20200704_114835.jpg

Plenty of it stuck to the oil residue on the baffle plate too.

20200704_114919.jpg

20200704_114935.jpg

Cut the old PCV grommet out with the Stanley.

20200704_125358.jpg

Snapped the central rings out of the seals and then carefully levered out the rest of the spark plug hole seals a few mm at a time, kept moving the "lever" round the hole. Was careful not to score the walls of the cover with the lever end.

20200704_131904.jpg

Greeted by yet more sand blasting media under the seals. Thankfully these would have only fallen directly into the bores at spark plug change time :crazy:

20200704_131950.jpg

Pile of unwanted-ness

20200704_130858.jpg

Stanley for scale

20200704_130911.jpg

All in all I would say I removed over a table spoon of just sand from the baffle (after taking into account the alu swarf from drilling and the sand that was already removed from vacuuming / falling out). I had thoroughly vacuumed the ports before investigation to see if it would have any effect. There's no way that parts washing would have been able to remove all the particles from the cover with the item assembled. 

20200704_130925.jpg

Cleanup / reassemble to follow.

YouTube video of the latest cover I've refurbishedhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0tlJcCMhP4

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites

4efte cam cover re baffle.

First I coloured the areas around the remains of the alu rivet posts with a sharpie (so I could see when I had removed all the post)

20200711_085517.jpg

Sanded down the posts with a sanding wheel on the grinder and had to get the last 2 in the corners with the dremmel and drum sander. Also cleaned up the rougher parts of the casting while I was at it.

20200711_092445.jpg

Decided that as my pillar drill bearings are totally boolaxed (leading to a nasty "wandering chuck"), I'd stand more of a chance using a cordless hand drill, so I clamped the cover to my workmate. I then carefully drilled 3mm pilot holes in the required locations.

20200711_094224.jpg

Next I had to open the holes out to 5mm (drill size to tap M6).  First hole, broke my 5mm bit off.🤬

Note to self, don't buy cheap eBay drill bits, HSS means high speed (not slow speed because your scared of punting a hole right through) and there's always time for lubricant.

20200711_101035.jpg

Thankfully the bit came out by hand, found a spare 5mm bit and the rest of the holes were no problem lubed up at speed.

20200711_103827.jpg

M6 taper tap with grease (only another 12 holes to go) followed by modified plug tap (ground down tip to make into bottoming tap) to send the threads to bottom of the blind hole.

20200711_105142.jpg

All done, ready for paint stripping.

20200711_133608.jpg

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites

Paint stripping / internal de grease.

Bought some Power Strip paint stripper (saw it on another build thread). Pretty evil stuff, two coats had turned 90% of the paint to jelly.

20200711_141723.jpg

Third coat did the rest.

20200711_145615.jpg

After scraping off some remaining flakes, I rinsed it out with water and scrubbed it with a stiff brush to remove the remains of the paint stripper and paint. Its only 3 photos but it took about 3 hours and was not pleasant working with chemicals like these.

20200711_161647.jpg

Needed to clean the varnish / oil residue off the inside. Decided to use alloy wheel cleaner this time and it worked a treat. Wire brush was used to scrub the residue while the cleaner fizzed the rest away. 3 rounds later I was happy.

20200712_114622.jpg

Cleaned out ready to re assemble. Might get the baffle plates re plated before hand so its all fresh.

20200712_134008.jpg

Took a total of 12hrs from start to this point. A labour of love but better than chucking it.

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

Nice work as always.

It's an all to common cause of engine failure shot/sand getting into the engine. 

 

Thanks Sam,

After investigating this one, just looking at the painted cam covers on eBay makes me shudder at what could be inside!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Front KYB Excel g shocks and Tein springs install.

The suspension was pretty tired and both front shocks were weeping slightly, upon inspection they were branded Toyota so I believe they are most likely the original shocks. Got some new top mounts (didn't fit but more on this later), Monroe bump stops (PK054), spring pads, lower bolts and nuts and dust seals and KYB shocks (333209, 333210).

20200628_084744.jpg

Firstly I loosened the 3 x top shock mount nuts in the engine bay and then removed the bolt holding the brake line to the bottom of the shock. After letting the 2 x lower shock nuts soak for a while in WD40 I loosened and removed them with the help of 2 x large breaker bars. Removed the 3 x top mount nuts and the shock assembly was all mine. Easy Peasy.

20200628_090110.jpg

As removed, rusty leaky mess, bump stop bellows were perished, lower spring pad was shagged too.

20200628_093345.jpg

Used the spring compressors to compress the spring which took the tension off the top mount, I removed the dust cover to reveal the top shock nut which I removed.

20200628_094109.jpg

The laid out components below are: dust cover, top shock nut, top mount, sponge dust shield (to protect top mount bearing), upper spring perch (with upper spring pad fitted), spring.

20200628_094116.jpg

Old shocks were so knackered they couldn't even push out their own piston rod.

20200628_121151.jpg

Just a note, there are 2 different types of upper spring perch, the internal and external. These are the external type which wrap over the outside of the spring. There are 2 x flats on the inner hole and these line up with...

20200628_095621.jpg

the 2 x flats on the sides of the shock shaft. 

20200628_095632.jpg

New and old parts prepared for assembly. Had to use the old top shock mounts as the new KYB ones specified for the vehicle on eBay don't fit. 🤬. the new mounts had a 15mm hole in the centre and the shock is only 14mm so it rattled like a dick in a bowler hat. Thankfully the old mounts were serviceable so I had to use those instead. The sponge dust shield goes on top of the spring perch (not in it as shown below). Tidied up the old components with rust treatment and painted them.

20200628_101727.jpg

20200628_101731.jpg

So, I replaced the lower spring pad, fitted the new bump stop and bellows, compressed the new spring and fitted it, added the upper spring perch with new spring pad, new dust seal, shitty old top mount 🙄 and new nut and dust cover.

20200628_105634.jpg

Back in it went, top mount nuts attached loosely first, then bottom bolts (bought new bolts and nuts as its quite likely the old ones will be rusty and may well damage the threads upon removal.) Fully tightened the top nuts, then bottom bolts. Finally bolted the brake line back on as well.

20200628_112029.jpg

Repeated for other side. Rears next...

Edited by Claymore
Part numbers added
Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear KYB Excel g shocks and Tein springs install.

Again both rear shocks were branded Toyota so I believe they are most likely the original shocks. Got some new top mounts (didn't fit AGAIN but more on this later) and KYB shock absorbers (341191). The bump stop had rotted and was disintegrating.

Firstly I loosened the 2 x outer top shock mount nuts in the boot under the plastic covers (not the middle nut).

20200627_090440.jpg

After letting the lower shock mount nut soak for a while in WD40 I loosened and removed it. Removed the 2 x upper mount nuts and the strut was out.

20200627_090456.jpg

Used the spring compressors to compress the spring which took the tension off the top mount, I removed the top shock nut  using a ring spanner with an open ended spanner on the flats on the end of the shock shaft.

20200627_092753.jpg

Components shown below: Top shock nut, mount washer, top shock mount, metal cup washer for bump stop, knackered bump stop, dust shield.

20200627_092759.jpg

Turns out the rear top mounts listed on eBay don't fit either! This time the spring perch was too small for the internal diameter of the spring so this time it was the mounts turn to be the dick in the bowler hat!

Treated the rusty parts and painted them.

20200627_114803.jpg

Decided also to cut approx. 12mm off the bump stop as there was less travel with the shorter springs and the stops were pretty hard. I left the fronts at full length as they were quite soft and could be compressed with reasonable force by hand.

20200627_101930.jpg

So, I fitted the new bump stop and dust shield, compressed the new spring and fitted it, added the metal cup washer, shitty old top mount with integral spring pad 😤, mount washer and new nut. I set the top mounting bolts at a 45 degree angle to the lower mount hole as rotating it with the spring pressure on is impossible.

20200627_104912.jpg

Back in it went, top mount nuts attached loosely first, then bottom bolt and nut. Fully tightened the top nuts, then set the car at ride height before tightening the bottom bolt. 

20200627_111453.jpg

Rinse and repeat for other side.

It sits about 40mm lower all round, I think its just right for a sleeper and may settle a bit more after driving it a bit.

20200628_150739.jpg

20200628_150756.jpg

Edited by Claymore
Part number added
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wrong mount detail:

The fronts were KYB SM5089, they were listed on eBay as fitting the EP91. I even sent the vehicle details to the seller to confirm.

The shock mount hole is 15mm and the top mount has 3 x studs and a nut insert making 4 mounting fasteners where the EP91 only uses 3.

20200629_085920.jpg

Both original Toyota and KYB Excel g replacement shock absorbers were 14mm shaft.

20200629_090006.jpg

Gap shown with arrow, deffo not suitable for the car / shock.

20200629_090126.jpg

I have done some quick research into the possible fitments and they might be the mounts for an EP82. Can't confirm physically unless someone out there has measured up an EP82? Sent back now for a refund anyhow. I have also informed KYB who said they will investigate.

The rears were Magnum A72015MT also listed for the EP91 and Again confirmed with seller before purchase.

Spring seat diameter 69mm.

20200629_085213.jpg

Inner spring diameter 73mm.

20200629_085312.jpg

Spring was loose on the mount by 4mm. Wouldn't seat correctly.

20200629_085525.jpg

Hopefully this will save others wasting their time.

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites

A few random purchases:

Been looking for information regarding ECU pinouts for the upcoming piggy back fitment and found several different versions online that vary in accuracy and also most contradict each other! Some refer to wires for the gtt or glanza and some have their intended purposes mixed up. I also couldn't find one that was for the particular ECU part number and we know that the 96/97 car wiring is different to the 98/99 wiring.

In all fairness the 4 important wires for the piggy back are almost correctly listed but curiosity got the better of me so I managed to find and purchase this. Although it is the European/German version there are English equivalent diagrams and explanations, plus it easier to translate German than Japanese.

20200702_123101.jpg

Also purchased a spare ECU to play with, they're only cheap and I've had ECU's crap out on me before.

20200705_100753.jpg

Upon opening the ECU to check its condition I was happy to see that the board is also labelled with the connectors pins intended purpose! So if you need to know which wire does what you can always remove your ECU and check under the cover.

20200705_101052.jpg

I have checked and the ECU board pinout matches the wiring diagram in the book 😃. I'm looking into making an ECU pinout table for this ECU part number.

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a 200mm helix friction plate, (can be seen on the fensport website ae86 parts) here never run, and a brand new very low milage Asin 4age pressure plate no marks on it at all. If your interested. This is the same pressure plate as the exedy stage 2. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Sam44 said:

I've got a 200mm helix friction plate here never run, and a brand new very low milage Asin 4age pressure plate no marks on it at all. If your interested. This is the same pressure plate as the exedy stage 2. 

Hi Sam, 

Thanks for the offer, but I'm sorted for a clutch.

You've picked up some interesting parts recently, any hints as to where you're finding them? 

I am still looking for a TD04 manifold and downpipe though: ideally WEPR, Race tech, Zisco or Tuning developments.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll ask around I'm on about 10 different Toyota site's, with the corrola owners being outstanding on parts as well as knowledge of interchangeable Toyota parts, and tuning these engines. Some exceptional Toyota know how people. 

As well networking the hell out of the NW and Midlands areas for Toyota breaks and car meets. Takes time but well worth the effort. 

The only thing I can't get is a corolla inlet haha. 

Edited by Sam44
Link to post
Share on other sites

Door sill paint:

When I bought the car i noticed the sill area under the kick plate was rusty and needed investigation.

First I removed the kick plate, un-clipped the front end from the foot well trim, pulled straight up to un-clip the sill fasteners and unhooked the other end from the lower B-pillar trim. Cleaned up the rusty edge.

20200606_091909.jpg

Thankfully only a thin line of surface rust.

20200606_091834.jpg

20200606_091840.jpg

Cleaned off carefully with an abrasive filament wheel.

20200606_093705.jpg

Hydrate 80 rust treatment just in case.

20200606_094557.jpg

Masked up, primed, sanded ready for top coat.

20200614_092712.jpg

Nice warm day for spraying so 3 x layers of top coat (10 mins. between coats), then 2 x layers clear lacquer (10 mins. wait also).

20200614_111100.jpg

Kick plate back on after 7 days drying. 

20200630_104921.jpg

Good as new.

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites

Door hinge replacement.

Noticed that the drivers door dropped when you opened it, so it was time to address this. Looking at the old hinge there was approx. 1.5mm of slack in it which caused the door to drop almost 10mm.

Bought a new drivers side, front, upper hinge from Toyota (68710-12101), worked out at about £50. 

20200623_112901.jpg

Keyed the surface for primer, then 3 x top coat and 2 x lacquer as per the usual method.

20200623_140030.jpg

To get at the hinge, first I had to remove the wheel arch liner (a mixture of hex head screws and push fit fasteners which have a circular button to pry open to remove and then the legs usually shatter off the clip) you can't remove the liner completely as the lower 3 x plastic push in fasteners that have a hole in the middle are one way fitment only. 

Removed the indicator (one screw at top and pull forward) disconnected bulb holder. Loosened the front bumper (removed the screw at top of grill, next to number plate  and 2 x underneath on front cross member). Disconnected side repeater bulb holder (1/4 turn).

20200630_095627.jpg

Unscrewed the bolts holding the wing on, 7 in total (three on the top in engine bay).

20200630_095634.jpg

One bolt in front corner behind bumper

20200630_095641.jpg

Rear view of arch showing the lower 3 x one way fasteners

20200630_101034.jpg

One screw under car to attach bottom of arch to sill, one screw behind arch liner.

20200630_100206.jpg

Final screw was in the door hinge area accessed with door open. Closed the door and removed the hinge as I was doing this job on my own. Replaced hinge and bolted it loosely to the car and door, then gradually tightened all 4 screws, then opened the door carefully and supporting the weight I loosened the 2 x car side screws and lifted the door slightly too high and re-tightened the bolts to the car side again. When I released the door it took out the slack in the new hinge and sat well. It will bed in and probably need adjusting but its a huge improvement.

20200630_100308.jpg

Put car back together paying attention to panel gaps before fully tightening any mounting bolts, new hinge in place (note the 7th wheel arch bolt above)

20200701_111002.jpg

Tightened the lock keep to the B- pillar and I no longer have to slam my door shut. :drinks:

Edited by Claymore
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Claymore changed the title to Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (aka the Nanza)
  • Claymore changed the title to Claymore's sleeper 4efe+t-t+t build (R.I.P. the Nanza)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...