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4efe SWAP to 4efte in Corolla E11 1998


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@JayCan someone help me figure out where these hoses go on the Starlet? The same ones in the 4efe Corolla go to the steering pump. The Starlet pump doesn’t have this double hose insert system in the pump. So what are they for?

 

here are the part number for the valve acid control valve

Corolla

17630-15080

 

Starlet

17630-11050

17630-11060

 

i need to knOe where they are and where they go. Thanks

D641E87D-078F-45B7-9244-F05624AE2F8D.thumb.jpeg.728c18852e0e156c3a791cb75692f1cc.jpeg

CD2F4DC6-9B53-48EA-A8CC-CB4A4F056ABA.thumb.jpeg.95c862b9e358695e6e1724b64a0f797c.jpegCC5917E5-2AD5-416A-A0BE-BEE0D32D9845.thumb.jpeg.c9bcd670dabf99e266828c5d558ab6c3.jpeg
 

 

Edited by Frankieflowers
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I stand by the sandwich plate option being the best just because you can mount both pressure and temp sensors.

Although another solution would be to place it in the sump but that requires removal drilling taping and then resealing.

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13 hours ago, candy_red said:

I stand by the sandwich plate option being the best just because you can mount both pressure and temp sensors.

Although another solution would be to place it in the sump but that requires removal drilling taping and then resealing.

I agree with you even though I bought the two adapters because someone told me there is a sump sensor for oil temp which is not true. I wasted €50. Now I bought the plate he suggested. Thanks

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Updating my swap. Although I will post everything when the job will be done, the hard process is still in progress. The wiring. I managed all the mechanical parts. Now I am struggling to adapt the FTE loom to the Corolla 4efe. The engine bay relays seem to be running the same signals as the FTE issues box. The ECU isn’t giving any signal even though it’s connected to the engine and should have it’s 12V power. I need help.

@Jay@Sam44@Claymore56736C67-208D-483E-A6CA-32519C5DD824.thumb.jpeg.4795aeece74066de73f8a4b23f6a6d4a.jpegB3F568A4-00E1-485B-A005-0C76323450A5.thumb.jpeg.0095f6fd06bda8dde8c90e201fcf51df.jpeg955C20FB-7BD7-4A2E-BB8A-4F3F37CB9B88.thumb.jpeg.7fe3fb520b147d13c6c5a8a7f4d855ea.jpeg74C2E1B9-8B35-4DED-BC8D-3B826A07EB2B.thumb.jpeg.202ab1509f9da759da47324f9a77beab.jpegB7CCBE71-FBDF-45DC-AE27-D6DD0061C212.thumb.jpeg.b05853711c5c075e42fe6ea8a9d8c3c1.jpeg

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Sorry frankie. I'm here. Since I've been back home and the UK has come out of lock down the family has had to isolate for 10day as there has been a case of the virous in the house hold. 

I've been busy building the back garden to how the misses wants it as well as all the house hold jobs that need doing. (Lots of them)

To answer your question on the pipes you can blank them off, there to affect starlet/most 4efe vehicles power steering pressure at the steering rack at very low rpm engine/power steering pump (car parks) to help provide good power steering aid and reduce engine load. 

Look at the top of your steering pump you should see the same valve as on the picture above they can also be routed to there (same valve going the same job). 

Edited by Sam44
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On 7/14/2021 at 1:33 AM, Frankieflowers said:

What can I use instead? The tip of the top hose n.5 is cracked. I need an alternative. Or maybe I can find a second hand one?

0A560DB6-E469-4EAF-9201-EE6EAE8E444E.jpeg

I'm looking into this now. It's best to remove the hot pipe and use a aftermarket silicone hose from the turbo (air filter relocation kit) going to an aftermarket air filter, placed were ever you decided in the engine bay. This pipe in the picture (hot pipe) is very restrictive to power output. The only issue here is if you remove this and also use a aftermarket  exhaust system (higher flow) you will get boost creep and hit fuel cut (not good for the engine at all). You have to enlarge the turbos waste gate hole (increase its diameter) so as to not get boost creep. as well as use a aftermarket bov (blow off valve) in place of the recirculation valve circled in the above picture. The proformance gains doing this are great. 

I'll be on the wiring tomorrow. 

Edited by Sam44
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On 7/14/2021 at 1:33 AM, Frankieflowers said:

What can I use instead? The tip of the top hose n.5 is cracked. I need an alternative. Or maybe I can find a second hand one?

0A560DB6-E469-4EAF-9201-EE6EAE8E444E.jpeg

 

9 hours ago, Sam44 said:

I'm looking into this now. It's best to remove the hot pipe and use a aftermarket silicone hose from the turbo (air filter relocation kit) going to an aftermarket air filter, placed were ever you decided in the engine bay. This pipe in the picture (hot pipe) is very restrictive to power output. The only issue here is if you remove this and also use a aftermarket  exhaust system (higher flow) you will get boost creep and hit fuel cut (not good for the engine at all). You have to enlarge the turbos waste gate hole (increase its diameter) so as to not get boost creep. as well as use a aftermarket bov (blow off valve) in place of the recirculation valve circled in the above picture. The proformance gains doing this are great. 

I'll be on the wiring tomorrow. 

That's not a "hot pipe" it's the "EFI" pipe and it's the intake tube for the turbo. A "hot pipe" is the pipe carrying hot compressed air from the compressor housing of the turbo to the intercooler. "Cold Pipe" is the pipe carrying cooled air from the intercooler to the throttle body.

You can leave the EFI pipe in place and blank off the mounting hole whilst fitting a breather to the rocker cover and an atmospheric dump valve to the hot pipe. 

http://jamesdrake13.blogspot.com/2012/03/how-to-install-monza-ssqv-blow-off.html

This way no boost creep by removing the EFi pipe, fixed problem.

Or: 

 

I would get the car running with as close to standard setup for now and then look at modifying and improving slowly over time. It becomes a spiralling project where you end up changing everything as you go along and it takes a long time and costs alot of money. Its up to you as its your car. The cheapest way would be to just fit a standard dump valve to replace the broken one.

Wiring, I hate to state the obvious but are these wires important (green circle)?

1705050616_frankiewires.thumb.jpeg.f8acf774ba809b69f008dddff67f29ec.jpeg

Also when using an Automatic ECU and wiring loom I think you have to bridge some wires relating to the gear selector position wiring? Something about sending a signal to the ECU to tell it the gearbox is in Park or neutral or it won't let the car start? I think you have already found this information in an earlier post but did you do it?

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agreed on that point, but if you want some tips on very cheap great options to mod it to take a aftermarket air filter and bov valve give me a shout the power gains here are some of the best on standard boost pressure (pulling power, puts you and the passenger right back in your seat). i recon you could do it for an extra £100 British pounds, also good to port the waste gate at the point your at now. taking the turbo off after this point is biggish job. 

itg sock air filters come in different sizes and are pro used. around £20.

the hot pipe is one of the biggest power restrictions on the 4efte engine. it limits air flow into the turbo. 

the wires in the picture are for the auto ecu/vehicle abs. not needed, also not found on the manual 4efte ems/ecu. 

 

  

Edited by Sam44
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i just nick named it the hot pipe as it sits right above the exhaust manifold and is black it gets silly hot, another reason to move it. i was not even aware the starlet lads have a hot pipe. efi stands for electronic fuel injection?. is this because of the sticker found on some?. 

i normally call the pipes you talk about as low/high pressure pipes or inlet/outlet.   

Edited by Sam44
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36 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

agreed on that point, but if you want some tips on very cheap great options to mod it to take a aftermarket air filter and bov valve give me a shout the power gains here are some of the best on standard boost pressure (pulling power, puts you and the passenger right back in your seat). i recon you could do it for an extra £100 British pounds, also good to port the waste gate at the point your at now. taking the turbo off after this point is biggish job. 

itg sock air filters come in different sizes and are pro used. around £20.

the hot pipe is one of the biggest power restrictions on the 4efte engine. it limits air flow into the turbo. 

the wires in the picture are for the auto ecu/vehicle abs. not needed, also not found on the manual 4efte ems/ecu.   

I am already aware of the gains from removing the restrictive "EFI" pipe, airbox and piping to reduce the upstream pressure drop created by them (as are most people on the forum by now I think?)

Sock filters are best left to itb trumpets in my opinion and the amount of oil used by ITG on the panel filter I had on a previous car was ridiculous and it dripped out coating the bottom of the airbox (not good for a turbo to ingest).

It is important for a cone filter to have a trumpet base also to help gather more air than a straight pipe, good performance gains here. Element / filter area of significant size to reduce the pressure drop of filter and also to choose the correct media (stainless gauze, foam or cotton.) The bigger the better as far as I'm concerned, more surface = less restriction and balance the size of filter against the material to get the correct flow depending on room in the bay.

Also be careful the silicone pipes and couplers don't suck flat, it is often best to use aluminium pipe as much as possible with minimal silicone to prevent this. Not usually a problem until the Turbo is larger and sucking hard but worth considering.

33 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

i just nick named it the hot pipe as it sits right above the exhaust manifold and is black it gets silly hot, another reason to move it. i was not even aware the starlet lads have a hot pipe. efi stands for electronic fuel injection?. is this because of the sticker found on some?. 

i normally call the pipes you talk about as low/high pressure pipes or inlet/outlet.   

Yes, the Turbo intake pipe (TIP as commonly referred to in other circles) is nicknamed the EFI pipe as some models had 16 valve EFI sticker on them.

9105028-1990-toyota-starlet-thumb.jpg.60b5d38b7edaa09270de6e86e7183cec.jpg

I also don't think the cover on the intercooler is the Turbo because it has a sticker that says turbo 😉.

 

Hope your family member is recovering well.

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alot of itg sock filters are not oiled, and because of this should not be placed in a way that water/weather can get to them directly.  

right i see, another member on here messaged me about your earlier reply, i didnt see the post earlier. 

yeh i was informing our friend ho's build it is. the gains in this area are some of the best for a standard 4efte looking for best power gain

you should not take things so personal, or it could be just to show you know either way i hope you and the family are well, and your mood is good.  

attention of frankie: i have seen efi pipe to re circulation valve blanking plates to remove the standard plastic valve and install a aftermarket bov (blow off valve).  

every body loves the sound of a Blow off valve.   

  

Edited by Sam44
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7 hours ago, Claymore said:

I am already aware of the gains from removing the restrictive "EFI" pipe, airbox and piping to reduce the upstream pressure drop created by them (as are most people on the forum by now I think?)

Sock filters are best left to itb trumpets in my opinion and the amount of oil used by ITG on the panel filter I had on a previous car was ridiculous and it dripped out coating the bottom of the airbox (not good for a turbo to ingest).

It is important for a cone filter to have a trumpet base also to help gather more air than a straight pipe, good performance gains here. Element / filter area of significant size to reduce the pressure drop of filter and also to choose the correct media (stainless gauze, foam or cotton.) The bigger the better as far as I'm concerned, more surface = less restriction and balance the size of filter against the material to get the correct flow depending on room in the bay.

Also be careful the silicone pipes and couplers don't suck flat, it is often best to use aluminium pipe as much as possible with minimal silicone to prevent this. Not usually a problem until the Turbo is larger and sucking hard but worth considering.

Yes, the Turbo intake pipe (TIP as commonly referred to in other circles) is nicknamed the EFI pipe as some models had 16 valve EFI sticker on them.

9105028-1990-toyota-starlet-thumb.jpg.60b5d38b7edaa09270de6e86e7183cec.jpg

I also don't think the cover on the intercooler is the Turbo because it has a sticker that says turbo 😉.

 

Hope your family member is recovering well.

An easy filter to get in Europe and other places is the Injen nanoweb dry filter. No oil used and made of pretty good material. It was made in collab with Amsoil so can't fault it. Also using one myself.

X1015BB_angle2_500x500.png

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On 7/25/2021 at 4:50 PM, Sam44 said:

attention of frankie: i have seen efi pipe to re circulation valve blanking plates to remove the standard plastic valve and install a aftermarket bov (blow off valve).

Thank you Sam. I need some pics of how the air hoses are connected to the blow pff valve.

my issue now is that the 2 free air hoses that normally go tocthe vaccumm pump on a Starlet, on a Corolla go to the steering pump. So how am I gonna fix this? Thank you all :)

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87DA9172-30CC-4B88-81B8-A14F61FE5185.thumb.png.15c63932751204ac00c3a4a3e18a7884.png

Corolla

CF0C7ED3-E43C-49E8-8BFF-5F05C25FAC13.thumb.png.5c82b670ffc9799fd233e289f2130c0e.png

Edited by Frankieflowers
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On 7/21/2021 at 2:25 AM, Frankieflowers said:

I agree with you even though I bought the two adapters because someone told me there is a sump sensor for oil temp which is not true. I wasted €50. Now I bought the plate he suggested. Thanks

Funny story the sandwich doesn’t fit. I went to research and I found out none of them fit if you don’t forge some space in the steering bracket. Not gonna docthat. I’ll try to adapt the filter adapter instead. 

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On 7/25/2021 at 4:35 AM, Sam44 said:

I'm looking into this now. It's best to remove the hot pipe and use a aftermarket silicone hose from the turbo (air filter relocation kit) going to an aftermarket air filter, placed were ever you decided in the engine bay. This pipe in the picture (hot pipe) is very restrictive to power output. The only issue here is if you remove this and also use a aftermarket  exhaust system (higher flow) you will get boost creep and hit fuel cut (not good for the engine at all). You have to enlarge the turbos waste gate hole (increase its diameter) so as to not get boost creep. as well as use a aftermarket bov (blow off valve) in place of the recirculation valve circled in the above picture. The proformance gains doing this are great. 

I'll be on the wiring tomorrow. 

This is interesting. Will discuss it with mp partner tomorrow. In the meantime we fixed the cracked peace. It holds so far. But I do wanna plan upgrade using all this info as soon as the engine will rune with all its sensors and wiring. We are at 70%. 
We did

crank

alternator

fuel pump

vent sensor

water temp sensor

Consider that all the extra loom parts has been cut from the Starlet fusbox loom to be integrated in the Corolla fusebox loom. Not an easy task. 

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