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29 minutes ago, Rikardo77 said:

Thanks guys im having some idle issues after fitting cone air filter but she’s driving well? Any thoughts on this? 

IMG_3696.MOV

Can't see the video. What did you do with the intake air temperature sensor? It's in the top half of the original airbox with the wires going to it.

Photos of the engine bay may help.

Edited by Claymore
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11 hours ago, Rikardo77 said:

Hi guys yes I’ve fixed the MAF sensor into the air flow tube behind the cone filter. Left it out first and just idled high, now I’ve fixed it into the tube this has started. 

Can you describe what's happening to the idle? The movie doesn't play so we can't see or hear the problem. Some photos of the engine bay might show an obvious problem.

Have you disconnected anything else like pipes or electrical connectors?

Probably best to double check that everything that's been moved / added is fitted correctly and connected properly as a start. If weird things happen directly after a change is made, then its the first place to start looking.

Edited by Claymore
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3 hours ago, Rikardo77 said:

I think my idle control valve is goosed, took my filter off and when running i cover the wax stat hole in the TB up with my finger and revs go right down.. JUST NEED TO FIND A REPLACEMENT NOW!! 

The 4efe in the EP91 doesn't have a wax stat only the Glanza. The Idle control valve is adjusted by coolant temp. though and this affects idle speed.

If your talking about covering the small square / triangle hole in the TB before the throttle plate, then that's the air bypass hole to the icv and if covered at idle there is no path for air to get into the manifold and the engine stumbles and revs drop. This is normal.

Is the engine idling high? low? hunting?

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Hi thanks for the reply i am still learning and getting confused haha. 
yeah idling really high and then drops suddenly and back up to high in regular sequence. I’m thinking my ICV Is goosed but ??? 
now revving around 3000 

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it sounds like you have a split pipe, check the pipes directly under the throttle body they go to your power steering rack. there should be 2x pipes. one goes to a pipe that's port is pre throttle flap this 1 should not affect idle the other connects to a pipe that's port is after/post throttle flap this is the culprit and will cause this issue you are explaining.

there are 2x other pipes on the under side also these are coolant pipes to heat up the throttle to lean out the intake air density to achieve better mpg. you can remove these pipes from the throttle body and join them together using a joining pipe this does give performance gains. the throttle body operates at thermostatic temp 89deg you can imagine the affect on the incoming air charge. after a run pop the bonnet and try to place your hand on the throttle body WARNING!!! its hot. 

in this you can see how easy it is to free off the common issue of a seized idle control valve all it takes is wd40 

Edited by Sam44
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53 minutes ago, Sam44 said:

there are 2x other pipes on the under side also these are coolant pipes to heat up the throttle to lean out the intake air density to achieve better mpg. you can remove these pipes from the throttle body and join them together using a joining pipe this does give performance gains. the throttle body operates at thermostatic temp 89deg you can imagine the affect on the incoming air charge. after a run pop the bonnet and try to place your hand on the throttle body WARNING!!! its hot. 

As far as I know the coolant pipes are to heat the icv as there is a bi metallic clock spring inside that contracts to move a tube that restricts the bypass air flow when up to operating temperature lowering the idle speed. Removing the coolant pipes would mean the idle would remain high.

It is also debatable how much heat would be absorbed by the air flowing through the throttle body as it spends such little time passing through and air is a poor conductor of heat.

Sounds like an air leak is most likely.

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Thanks guys. Have you any suggestions on the best hose replacements? 
i was thinking of taking the TB off to clean properly whilst changing the hoses. 
I am abit ocd and the build up of dirt from over the years is doing my nut in haha. 

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diesel works well then carb/brake cleaner to finish off and remove the diesel. the card and brake cleaner evaporate very fast so it can require 2 tins if you only use these. before you start up the engine after cleaning make sure there is no cleaner left in there. 

Edited by Sam44
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9 hours ago, Rikardo77 said:

Thanks guys. Have you any suggestions on the best hose replacements? 
i was thinking of taking the TB off to clean properly whilst changing the hoses. 
I am abit ocd and the build up of dirt from over the years is doing my nut in haha. 

I would start at the beginning, did the car idle ok before you changed the air filter assembly?

Check that the changes you have made are all good, pipes connected correctly, electrical connectors plugged in etc.

Make sure the throttle cable isn't too tight and that the throttle plate is returning to the fully closed position and is free to move without sticking.

Then clean the throttle body / throttle plate with carb cleaner. spray a small amount down the bypass hole to clean the ICV.

Run car to clear out cleaner.

See if this changes anything.

 

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12 hours ago, Sam44 said:

what about radiation. just feel the throttle body then the adjoining manifold and make your own mind up. its hard to touch becarful, you will see a 2 to 3 drop in mpg if removed. 

Imo the heat supplied by what ever mode to the intake air from throttle body is insignificant compared to the heat supplied by the intake ports / tract of the head that will be at operating temperature also (larger surface area). Unless the mpg test was conducted under lab conditions I'm filing it under Internet BS.

I have already said why I wouldn't remove the coolant hoses. Therefore, this argument is moot anyway lol.

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file it were ever you like. 

try it you will see until then keep up the guessing games. its very easy to monitor mpg down to a small margin. 

here is alittle food for thought,fuel injection type early batch firing (could this heat also be used to help evaporate the fuel in the inlet that helps cool the valve head, like on most early single point injection and carb manifolds). The heat is there for a reason, and it might turn out to be an array of reasons. 

What we do know is heat affects air density, which in turn affects proformance, if it turns out this heat also affects fuel vapour in the inlet the balance becomes more again to extract proformance. What would be good is some testing on inlet charge temps and proformance. Which you might find on here. 

This is were good fuel pressure helps fuel atomisation (alot better then fuel vapour). This is were the latest efi/ems come into there own and 1 of the reasons I'm running 4bar constant fuel pressure on my build utilizing the 4efe efi. At the point inlet temps went down fuel pressure went up.

 

Edited by Sam44
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If I remember correctly it's a fairly large diameter pipe for a vacuum pipe. I'd just get some tubing/piping from the local parts shop. They normally sell it per meter. Take the old 1 along for a sample. You might want to put some jubilee clips on there 

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