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Hi all, what sump sealant have people used?

I'm having trouble with a leaky sump. I've resealed it twice- both times I've completely removed all sealant and made sure all surfaces are clean.

Neither crank seals are leaking, it's definitely the sump seal.

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Permatex Supra Grey will do the job. Haven't had it fail on me neither oil nor coolant.

Also if your are doing it with the engine in the car you need to be extra careful how you place it on the gearbox side over the rear seal cover. I ve found it tricky as its narrow and space around it is really tight between the gearbox and no.5 main cap.

A second person to help you keep it aligned will make it much easier. 

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1 hour ago, Sam44 said:

Yeh super gray is very good. 

Also becarful not to block the oil pump bearing return journal it's on the under side of the oil pump a little round port were the oil returns to the sump after passing feeding the pump bearing. 

this is extremely important to remember

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Morning.

There are 2 other common points on the engine for oil leaks. People often think that it is the sump leaking (this is were the oil comes out/collects). These are the two main leaking points. 

The left hand back corner of the rocker cover gasket leaks (near the oil filler cap) normally into and down the cam belt covers coming out of the sump. This point of the head were the rocker leaks is a place were engine oil gathers in the head when the engine is running. I put sealant on this corner as well as on the points of the rocker gasket that is required. 

The other is the oil pump seal. This is the main large "O" ring that seals the oil pump to the engine block. 

Other points to look at are, front crank main seal, rear crank main seal, top cam shaft seals, but if these are found to keep leaking after replacing them you need to check the engine crankcase pressure. Chances are you have exesive piston ring blow by or (ring flutter), normally on these engines this is due to age/bore glaze. A good cylinder hone and a 500 to 600 miles ring cut in process to follow.

Also the dipstick seal can look like a sump leaking.  

If you replace the oil pump "O"ring seal replace the front crank main seal. This is because it's easy to do with the oil pump off. 

Remember to follow instructions of how to apply instant gasket. Silicon sealant. The idea is to allow the sealant to form a seal between two surfaces. Not squashing and breaking the sealant whilst still wet. 

Edited by Sam44
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Cheers mate, i've thoroughly checked for other leaks a number of times and all seems good. I've got an RW-D catch can set up and sealed the rocker at the time of fitting that. The front crank seal was done recently when I did the timing kit too.

The first time I re-sealed the sump only the gearbox side was weeping. Since doing it again, both ends are leaking. I just don't rate the sealant which is odd as TD use it all the time and recommended it. They are a bit of a pig to seal though and I did have a friend help me put the sump on last time so I could make sure it went on evenly without blocking anything up. Its not pissing out but just weeps which after all my efforts is bloody annoying.

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