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Patches V - Link G4+ Standalone


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Small update

My stored gearbox is at a local rebuilder to get stripped down and inspected and have the open diff removed to swap into the box that's currently on the car. I've ordered seal kits for the 2 gearboxes from Nengun (Toyota - Gasket Kit, Transaxle Overhaul (mtm) Part number 04331-12080 for anyone interested) as its £42 for 2 shipped from Japan instead of £38 each here in the UK.

Once he has the box opened up and he's happy with the condition of gears and synchros etc I think I'm just going to have all new bearings fitted, I think the bearings are marked with the part numbers from Koyo/NSK etc so it should save a lot of cash rather than getting them from Toyota. Once the box is ready I will take the gearbox off my car and bring that down so he can open it up and swap the diff over. Ideally I want the other box repaired and probably sold but the issue is the synchro's changed in the C56 (it might even be a C52) at some point and you really need the VIN number for the car the box came from to identify the correct parts you need. Tim at TB developments reckons he could probably rebuild it and source the parts but I would have to send it down via a pallet and it could be a lot of £££ lost if he can't get parts.

I got my Exedy Stage 1 clutch but thought it was the wrong friction disc in the box as it only had 4 springs in it. Turns out after a lot of back and forth and speaking to Exedy UK that they changed the friction disc form a 6 to a 4 spring model, I'm assured it's the same material and will hold the same power but should be nicer to use. We will find out soon enough.

Other than that I've got a Supra clutch switch (Part number 88280-14030) for enabling launch control. Hopefully this will fit onto the clutch pedal instead of the adjustment bolt that's there now, I haven't even measured it haha. I've also spent ages trying to source the connector housing for it which looks like its Toyota part number 90980-10906. This uses Yazaki 090 II female terminals I will report back if this fits

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So it turns out you can store a gearbox in a garage for 9 years without oil or sealing the driveshafts and it will be fine 😃 no rust at all inside the box which I was a little worried about!

Gearbox rebuilder has sent over some pics of an interesting bit of damage at the 5th gear synchro hub, its broke a wire semi circular clip at some point and the hub finger, these were stuck to the magnet. Because of this there is a little bit of damage to the gearbox casing which is a shame but all these parts are replaceable so I've to pop over and have a chat to see what it needs.

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  • 2 months later...

Removed my current gearbox and it was the clutch release bearing which was totally destroyed! Didn't get any photos of it. Taking the gearbox off was a total nightmare, would have been easier removing the whole engine and box then splitting but I sold my crane ages ago.

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The gearbox builder got some pictures of my diff which I had never seen before so it's a plate diff, think it's a TRD but no markings on it. At least I know I need the friction modifier LSD oil so got 2 litres of Millers Nanodrive CRX LS 75w90 NT+

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In the meantime I've been remaking parts of my loom and doing it properly by measuring correctly and making it in the house rather than on the car which is much much easier. Starting with and injector subloom as I swapped from RX8 injectors to Bosch EV14 550cc (0280158117), I was using clip on adapters but the loom was a mess and needed redone anyway. I accidentally wrecked on of the terminals on the denso connectors I had and instead of waiting a few days for a replacement I just reused a pigtails from the original loom! Looks awful! i also used 14AWG wire for the power feed which was overkill. New injector loom is 20AWG Spec55 wire, DR-25 heat shrink, Raychem SCL for the splices and booting with DTM 6 way connector using 2 terminals for the power which I will splice into a single 18AWG power supply wire.

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I also picked up a set of K20 coils for £48 delivered as I need to reseal my rocker cover anyway so might as well get bosses welded on at the same time. I've struggled to find good quality K20 coil connectors so in the end had to buy genuine Sumitomo ones from KVS Looms in America which wasn't cheap but at least they should last.

Here are the cheap shite K20 coil connectors which broke on the first test fit.

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  • 3 weeks later...

While the gearbox was off I got the flywheel skimmed by the gearbox rebuilder, can't recommend Craig at D. Gilmour Engineering in Glasgow enough, he's been great for all the gearbox work and machining I've had done so far.

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I've got the gearbox back on which was also a nightmare as I really struggled to get my drivers side front wheel off as it had corroded onto the hub. Ended up loosening off the bolts a tiny bit and kicking it while under the car, once I got the wheel off it wasn't too bad.

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Took the loom off the car to give it a proper inspection as I knew there was some bodged bits the first time I wired the car, I also want to split the chassis loom, charge harness and the engine loom so I can easily remove one at a time.

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Found some right dodgy crimps! This is what happens when you rush a job, have to do it twice haha! I've got decent RS Pro uninsulated ring terminals and a pressmaster crimp tool to do my own grounds so no more red plastic insulated terminals.

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Having a problem with washer pumps failing, found the issue... corroded terminals so ordered a new connector with terminals and seals from auto-click but cancelled the order as after a full week they still hadn't posted it. In the end just cleaned the connector and seals up and used new Sumitomo terminals which I could source from automotiveconnectors.com

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Also found the reason why my car struggles to start when the engine is hot, this cable has seen better days

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This is the starter terminal so ordered a new custom made 25mm2 cable of 800mm with M-8 terminals at each end to replace this section from the battery positive to the starter.

While the loom is out I bought some rope to mock up a loom so I can make it in the house which is 100X easier than hunched over in the car.

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Also made a start on the K20 coil harness, this it the mocked up version made using the leftover twin core shielded wire from the Link ECU Loom A

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Edited by Patches
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  • 2 months later...

Still working away on the wiring loom. I've completed repairing and tidying up the chassis so that's ready to go back in now.

 

As a side note I have been trying to import a Alphard or Vellfire as a family car and found this site myauctionsheet.com where I was able to verify the auction sheets for cars already imported. Costs about £7 per search so I decided to have a look to see if I could find my original starlet I bought in 2012 from DCY Europe (the shady cunts they are) It was a grade R and using google translate it says all over it "cross member bend" etc. At the time I paid £5k for it which was a lot and it was really clean aside from the smash but they made me sign sheets of paper saying it had no accident history in Japan etc 🤣 absolute wankers

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  • 3 weeks later...

I made a mockup of my engine loom using rope

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Found this hidden gem in the oem harness, not sure what it was originally for but the wires could have been touching each other so I've cut them at staggered lengths, covered with heatshrink and taped it up so at least its safe now

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Here is the alternator, starter, windscreen wiper, reverse light switch and brake level sensor wiring fed into the AC blanking grommet, still need to terminate fan relay and a few other things on a dtm connector in the car

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Repaired washer wiring, new terminals, heat shrink and cleaned the connector body as couldn't source a replacement

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Remade my horn wiring, it will do the job. Ideally I would seal the terminals onto the horn and use new connectors but this should be fine.

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New ground for the horn wiring

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Knock sensor wiring, terminating the shield and one of the wires to a new wire for the sensor ground

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/3/2022 at 4:26 PM, Patches said:

I made a mockup of my engine loom using rope

f564f4a2b97aca9b4f9bb606f1f8cde7.jpg

Found this hidden gem in the oem harness, not sure what it was originally for but the wires could have been touching each other so I've cut them at staggered lengths, covered with heatshrink and taped it up so at least its safe now

8d0f19354340497f562b4c68a7b47648.jpg

7e5993dcab2c2e4ab831ef5cf3b8a237.jpg

5b9680cc04e1a8596509ca96732d1a2d.jpg

Here is the alternator, starter, windscreen wiper, reverse light switch and brake level sensor wiring fed into the AC blanking grommet, still need to terminate fan relay and a few other things on a dtm connector in the car

54d8b010a7dc815e91435472571374e9.jpg

Repaired washer wiring, new terminals, heat shrink and cleaned the connector body as couldn't source a replacement

3ce8e46b5b4728cbcec10c4caa46f87d.jpg

Remade my horn wiring, it will do the job. Ideally I would seal the terminals onto the horn and use new connectors but this should be fine.

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New ground for the horn wiring

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Knock sensor wiring, terminating the shield and one of the wires to a new wire for the sensor ground

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Just an FYI, on the knock you do not want to connect the shield and sensor ground together and then to the sensor ground pin. 
 

conductors to Knock input and sensor ground, the shield should then be terminated on its own one end only to a chassis/power ground 

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On 8/16/2022 at 11:22 PM, RobSR said:

Just an FYI, on the knock you do not want to connect the shield and sensor ground together and then to the sensor ground pin. 
 

conductors to Knock input and sensor ground, the shield should then be terminated on its own one end only to a chassis/power ground 

That's interesting Rob, according to Link in their documentation that's exactly what I should do 😆image.png.beaf39965765f2dac5c72267376e8626.png

Haltech also recommend doing the same as I've just checked their documentation too

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Yes I’m really not sure why they recommend doing it this way, as you’re putting shield noise onto a pin all the other sensors are connected too. 
 

All the big professional harness builders I’ve worked with who do stuff upto F1 level, put them to ECU/Power ground so I’ve always done it this way as I’ve had more consistent results. 
 

Just my experience so thought I’d point it out :) 

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20 hours ago, RobSR said:

Yes I’m really not sure why they recommend doing it this way, as you’re putting shield noise onto a pin all the other sensors are connected too. 
 

All the big professional harness builders I’ve worked with who do stuff upto F1 level, put them to ECU/Power ground so I’ve always done it this way as I’ve had more consistent results. 
 

Just my experience so thought I’d point it out :) 

Well sort of, technically it has its own pin. All my sensor grounds (apart from the knock sensor and trigger grounds) are in the A connector Gnd Out and the ground and shield for the knock will go to Sheild/Gnd on the B connector.

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Either way it can't present too many issues as MaxxECU also recommend this method

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Agreed that you can use the shield ground pin for that, but IMO you shouldn't be connecting any sensor grounds there. Hopefully Link have tied it into the PCB away from sensitive IC grounds and closer to power grounds but who knows. I probably over analyse but its good to have an understanding if you're really interested in it and reviewing/making your own decisions. Just because a couple of ECU manufactures do it a certain way, doesn't necessarily mean its correct.

If you're interested and have spare time, i can recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySuUZEjARPY

Ricks whole career has been EMI problem solving and discusses exactly what we were talking about above. In short, his recommendation is don't connect your shield to your sensor ground lol.

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On 8/25/2022 at 1:00 PM, RobSR said:

Agreed that you can use the shield ground pin for that, but IMO you shouldn't be connecting any sensor grounds there. Hopefully Link have tied it into the PCB away from sensitive IC grounds and closer to power grounds but who knows. I probably over analyse but its good to have an understanding if you're really interested in it and reviewing/making your own decisions. Just because a couple of ECU manufactures do it a certain way, doesn't necessarily mean its correct.

If you're interested and have spare time, i can recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySuUZEjARPY

Ricks whole career has been EMI problem solving and discusses exactly what we were talking about above. In short, his recommendation is don't connect your shield to your sensor ground lol.

Nah man I definitely appreciate it. Always open to hearing other ideas and suggestions but equally if several ECU manufacturers are suggesting it as a solution it surely can't pose too many issues?

I'll definitely watch that video when I get some time.

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On 8/25/2022 at 1:00 PM, RobSR said:

Agreed that you can use the shield ground pin for that, but IMO you shouldn't be connecting any sensor grounds there. Hopefully Link have tied it into the PCB away from sensitive IC grounds and closer to power grounds but who knows. I probably over analyse but its good to have an understanding if you're really interested in it and reviewing/making your own decisions. Just because a couple of ECU manufactures do it a certain way, doesn't necessarily mean its correct.

If you're interested and have spare time, i can recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySuUZEjARPY

Ricks whole career has been EMI problem solving and discusses exactly what we were talking about above. In short, his recommendation is don't connect your shield to your sensor ground lol.

Adam from Link ECU has addressed this question on the HP Academy forum 

https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-wiring-fundamentals/show/knock-sensor-shield-grounding

I will continue to wire the way the ECU manufacturers documentation recommends

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