JDMfreak Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 the crank has definitely scored them luckily there not through to copper coating Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted October 31, 2015 Author Share Posted October 31, 2015 So what do we think just install some new prob genuine shells or still need get crank out? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akyakapotter Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Full rebuild that's what id prsonaly do. Wouldn't even chance just putting new shells in think of the tiny bits of metal that's gone through the pump ect by now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Did you lubricant all the bearings big and main when first fitted mate? This is a big shame but hold your head up high and don't give up :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Whip crank out, take it a machine shop and get it measured, polished or reground and polished if it's out of tolerance. Genuine Toyota bearings and some engine assembly lube. Exactly what I did with the advance engine (after it melted the Pistons courtesy of TD)Done 40000 mile in it since the overhaul and it's sweet as a nut. Ended up with 0.25 oversize big ends. Mains and thrusts were fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Yeh everything lubed and torqued up.so looks like engine out job then... nightmare Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funny onion Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 It's fighting back! As I would say haha. Don't be beaten, you'll get it sorted. Cleanliness and thoroughness is the key. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 It's time vs being arsed that's my drawback lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 Yeh everything lubed and torqued up.so looks like engine out job then... nightmare i think the damage was done the 1st time when you over tightened her with the caps wrong way round when the crank was really hard to move Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 1, 2015 Author Share Posted November 1, 2015 Yuh i did say I've probably just added 50k miles to them by doing that. Annoying thing now is its not a simple shell replace and that it will need further stripping then what it had before! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 well you can drop the crank out you just need to pull box out or if ya really want pull engine out and pull the crank out either way its a set back but any crank you get have it checked first Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Who do people rate as competent machinists (mainland based) for the work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 right so ive had the crank out and had it looked over by a local engineer and he does not think there is any damage to the crank. we measured the journals with a micrometer and the results were: big 1 - 39.95big 2 - 39.97big 3 - 39.97big 4 - 39.94 mains - all 46.99 main 1 main 2 main 3 main 4 main 5 this is the condition of the no.1 big journal in question from the above videos: under engine shots: sorry about the picture heaviness so what do we think now? crank polish and a new set of genuine bearings and thrust washers all round? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 looks like your using the wrong micrometer i want to see 0.000 check the crank lobes urselve with your micrometer 0.000 1 not 0.00 micro there to ruff that loube looks ruff to me mate try polishing it up before you measure it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 looks like your using the wrong micrometer was one of these - http://www.thespectruminternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Mitutoyo-Outside-micrometer-Mechanical-1.jpg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlancEP82 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Acl butter bearings imo there shite Quote Link to post Share on other sites
turbominicooper Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Yuh agreed but who sticks genuine stuff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlancEP82 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Dont know but next time im going toyota bearings,built two engines with acl didnt last to long Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JDMfreak Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Toyota stock the oem shell bearings part numbers are these are for pistons 13041-11030 these are for crank bearings 11701-10012 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 was one of these - http://www.thespectruminternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Mitutoyo-Outside-micrometer-Mechanical-1.jpg not good enough mate it only does 0.00 no wonder it failed on you ( thent and 100th ) you need the 1000th measurements Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 about the bearings use thes for standard size same but cheaper then mr toyo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JDM-TAIHO-MAIN-CON-ROD-ENGINE-BEARING-SET-STARLET-GT-TURBO-EP82-EP91-4E-FTE-STD-/301458536571?hash=item463054387b:g:JGwAAOSwnDxUkG9B if it needs a grind it will be main dealer and 20e per chel 2 on a conrod so 40euros plus vat ontop so you get an idea of pricing 200/220euros Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Ok I see where this is going now Colin is absolutely right what his saying (remember the shit I went through mate with this) when you ring up toyota they will ask you was size bearings you need, I actually have a micrometer in 000.0 cost me 50 quid aswell as the engineer I took my crank too decided to measure it in 000 not 000.0 dumbass and turned around and said we don't do 000.0 here and measured the crank to 40mm on each journal instead of the actual size it should of been in thousands of an inch, where are you located mate and don't worry it's a lot to take in at the moment but step by step we can help (especially Colin, that bloke eats, sleeps and shits these engines I swear it haha) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) A few links here mate please do readhttp://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?27569-4EFTE-Torque-Specshttp://www.autotechl.com/MATChapters/EngineMeasurementsBottomEnd2.pdfhttp://mearcatmini.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/tutorial-bottom-end-bearings-main-seals.html?m=1http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?61865-engine-bearing-info-needed-please!&highlight=22222Now I know they mention ACL bearings in this but my own opinion I would go genuine TOYOTA bearings Edited November 8, 2015 by patman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5e colin Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 thats 2nd link is really handy for some !!! great explanation there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
patman Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 A lot of info I read mate when building mine, what a nightmare though, only thing I can think of here when reading about his bottom end build wrong size bearings I never did like the acl route but that's just my opinion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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