KPJUK

Thought as much - didn't want to push my luck. Ok then, lube and swearing it is. Thank you mate. KP

Ah I was hoping/dreading that was the case. So with the bolt and little plate remove the bugger should pull out after some lube and swearing. How safe is it for me to get an acetylene torch on it? Don't fancy cracking the casing or burnings the seals and oil up but I just don't know what this issue calls for! Thanks for your help dude. KP

Hi guys, My speedo stopped working recently - cable seems fine and the dials run up when I spin the cable up, so it appears the drive unit is buggered. From the looks of it all I need to remove is a 10mm bolt and then pull the unit from the diff casing, however when I attempted this on my old gearbox is just shattered the drive unit housing. Are these supposed to just pull out after removing the bolt but they seize up, or is there something I have missed? I have quite a rare 6-speed from a G6 Corolla so am keen not to damage the transmission or related components! KP

This is what I have currently: KP

Hi everyone, I have a 1991 Corolla with a 1999 Corolla G6 4E-FE but the camshaft cover was botched for a turbo conversion which never happened (previous owner). My engine bay is misting up nicely with oil and I have new seals for the camshaft cover but would rather fit a standard one with the proper PCV valve. Does anyone have on laying around for reasonable money? Doesn't matter if its painted so long as its undamaged and hasn't been fiddled with in any other way. I also need a PAS pump bracket with the correct tensioner, again mine has been botched and is preventing my from correctly tensioning the belt. Cheers, KP

No it was a Blueprint ADL which I personally find matches Toyota parts. Replaced it with another ADL along with the thermostat and its golden. I do seem to have an oily smell since setting up the breather though! Balls. What is the service interval for the pump? KP

Hi everyone, I'm keen to get a few opinions on a recent scenario I have experienced. Currently twiddling my thumbs until a new water pump arrives on Monday afternoon and then I can fit it and get back to Uni. But I am having a bit of a concerned moment at the minute regarding why it failed. The pump is relatively new in terms of age but has covered a considerable mileage (15k+) and I have to be honest - some of them have been pretty hard miles. Ok, very hard miles. The cooling system has always been filled with de-ionised water and antifreeze at a 30-70 mix, coolant to water. It is very clean in terms of debris and hasn't discoloured too badly. Yesterday when I hooked up my oil breather system at long last, I was warming up the engine to ensure it operated correctly at all stages of idle (which is another issue I could do with help on). It took longer than I had hoped to warm up and given I knew it shouldn't take so long, I went to check under the bonnet. Sure enough the water pump weep hole was dumping coolant at an alarming rate so I immediately keyed off the engine which was still barely up to temp. With the pump off, I have inspected it carefully and as far as I can tell, it isn't corroded. The bearing feels fine. It makes no strange noises. The coolant is in good condition. So what caused it to fail? My main worry is that something else may be wrong with the cooling system that actually caused the pump failure. I cannot identify any leaks anywhere although last week I had one odd moment - the temperature gauge suddenly shot up, and I mean within a fraction of a second (I'm very paranoid and keep an eye on the gauge every couple seconds). Keyed off immediately and fired up after 30 seconds and the temperature was fine and I didn't have any issues. When I got home the coolant level was low and I topped up and it has reached and held temperature nicely under all driving conditions. But of course now the pump has failed. As for the idle problem - the cold idle is very low and it steadily rises and settles for warm idle at approximately 1200-1350rpm (I have no tach for now so cannot confirm). I have no blink codes flashing up and the engine misfires very intermittently when accelerating hard from very very low speeds/throttle openings in 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. I suspect the Idle Control Valve. What do you guys think? The engine is a 1999 4E-FE from a G6 Corolla (E11) Sorry for the wall of text, but I do need a little guidance on this one. Thanks for any help! KP

Sure enough, I couldn't see the wood through the trees. After installing a new set of Spark Plugs and chucking some fuel system cleaner in the tank the misfire has disappeared. Runs spot on now! KP

Having reconnected the O2 sensor and checked its voltage, I can confirm that it is working between 0.1v and 0.9v which is as specified by Denso and Bosch - so I believe I am safe in assuming they both send the same signal and it shouldn't make a difference to the ECU which one I use. Annoyingly it didn't solve anything however I may try resetting the ECU tomorrow with it connected and see if it responds better. KP

This one looks about right - according to the Denso catalogue the direct fit to the original downpipe is the DOX-0225 (1997-1999) and the universal sensor is DOX-0111 which is £35 not £80! I need the universal one anyway, can someone take a look at this and confirm I'm not talking bollox? http://www.autodesignplus.because/editor/image/stranky3_soubory/d-denso-lambda-sensor-catalogue-2008-2009.pdf KP

Ok thanks mate will do. Yeah its the 4 wire heated sensor. I have a Bosch unit on there now but no clue if its sending the right signals. ] KP

Ah ok thanks for the advice, I was looking at this one but may rethink that: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-TOYOTA-MR2-CELICA-SUPRA-STARLET-W-GAUGE-RED-/271300630796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f2ac7190c The misfire is getting bad - anyone got a spare lambda sensor? I only have the one heated sensor and its Bosch not the genuine Denso so I think its giving duff readings. ECU hasn't whinged about it but it may be part of the issue. KP

There's no dizzy cap its a twin coil wasted spark ignition system But thank you - we did test the leads just today! We tested the HT leads and coils for resistance and they are absolutely spot on. The Spark Plugs could do with replacing but wouldn't cause this issue. What we did find using a Gunson Colour Tester is that the engine is running lean under full throttle = fuel supply issue. When we applied a positive pressure to the pressure regulator it appeared to ease the misfire, thus I will be fitting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to bring the pressure up to snuff. That should have it sorted. Does anyone know of a decent kit for not much money that bolts straight on? I want to raise it to 2.8Bar if possible. KP

Hi guys, After having much fun hooning time I am getting sick of an intermittent misfire (which is now getting worse and more regular) which is most noticeable pulling from low RPM in a high gear. It really sputters and craps out and backfires every now and then. I have a CEL and after checking the code I have only got Code 42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor. What sensor is this referring to exactly and could it have some effect on the engine management? It seemed to be fine all day today but after going out tonight it is as if the car is stopping the hooliganism. Sad times. If I accelerate smoothly I don't seem to have a misfire. If I plant the throttle it can hesitate sometimes. When revving in neutral from idle it can be very grumbly. Any ideas here? It will get me home for sure but I want to minimise damage to the engine if this is harming it in any way. KP

Thanks, I totally love the sound of it, it's properly savage Made it home today - 286 miles, first of four trips. Not a single hitch with it bar the CV chucking grease but that's not going to stop me getting home Runs well and rather economically considering there is no Lambda signal. Still misfires but it appears to be clearing as I go along with the whine from the camshaft gears. KP