Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. as soon as im back in the uk, I will do just that. i think the c64 tops out at around 150mph. are you using your glanza to do quarter mile runs.
  3. hello there and welcome to the forum.
  4. You hardly still have the foha front splitter for sale?
  5. yep thanks. it does bolt in place of the distributor and seal the head.
  6. rather that it droping straight down it will have to bend back on itself by around 45 deg then drop straight down. this pipe is only a small diameter, some of these are quite a large diameter. with this pipe being quite small you might get away with just cutting away some of the cross member lip/edge. this is not the 4efte original pipe. the original pipe is a catalytic converter which will defiantly not fit in. this is the aftermarket decat pipe.
  7. If anyone knows of any being broken in the near future I’m looking for various parts including a reliably built engine
  8. Hi guys, picked up my non running glanza v about 5 years ago just getting round to working on it hope to find some help on here
  9. Yesterday
  10. Is the power steering pump bracket you mentioned part of the 4efte engine?
  11. Should I send you another picture for the corner or this is enough? Is the cap cover the plastic boxes on the side? i found this maybe it helps Starlet Glanza V 1998 4efte http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/jp/1998/starlet/ep91-agmqy/4_121150_006_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug Corolla E11 1998 4efe http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1999/corolla-hb-lb/ee111r-agmdkw/3_153540_038_/tool-engine-fuel/1901_ignition-coil-spark-plug
  12. This is the original 4efte pipe? How will I have to fabricate the modified pipe? Isn’t there any on the market? Any drawing or measures?
  13. Sound good sam! hit me up your details in PM im going to need an option i dont see this box lasting long> Cheers
  14. Thanks mate, really looking forward to seeing it once it’s back together with all the decals back on
  15. ill get into this c64/c63 power box next year. we will have to sort something out to get it tested in your 5e high power build, after ive sorted out the install into a ep91. cangrats josh.
  16. Update: So the build now is coming to an end I've finished all the jobs on my list now! I've been doing jobs non stop for 14 months now and I've finally come to the final step which is mapping... When your building these type of projects you will come across many issues, You will feel sad, annoyed, angry, frustrated you may even cry i did a few times! However never give up as when it comes to the end and your enjoyment starts coming into it, You will look back and think everything you have gone though has been worth it! Thanks for all the lads that gave me a hand on little jobs here and there. The next update will be either the car mapped or i will be building a new engine due to an unfortunate event on the dyno day! Take care of your self everyone and jobs listed below of whats been completed since last update. Peace out for now! Dyno update next saturday... Thanks for reading Josh Updates: 1) Sorted oil leak from the sump and resealed it 2) Re-torqued headbolts 3) Fitted AN6 water lines to turbo 4) Sorted coolant leak from water lines on turbo 5) Wired in boost gauge 6) Wired in ALS / Launch control switch 7) Sorted out ride height on BC's so tyres dont rub anymore 8.) Wired in Boost solinoid 9) Tidied up wiring in foot well
  17. Few more pictures now it’s off the truck. Really pleased with how it’s come out.
  18. Thanks mate, really looking forward to building it back up ready for next year.
  19. Haven't updated this in a little while, but taken the car off the road for winter now. Ideally need to get myself a garage space to keep it away from the elements but its tucked up on the driveway for now. Still I've had the chance to get a couple of small jobs done on the car recently. I wanted to remove the remaining part of the ac system and the two ugly pipes that are visible in the engine bay, so removed the glovebox and pulled out the ac condenser from inside the heater box. Was a bit fiddly but easily done, also picked up an non ac starlet grommit for the firewall . Very mucky in parts of the bay, the whole thing needs a good clean down at some point. Also had a go at refurbing the front glanza grill badge as mine had seen much better days and toyota have discontinued them completely. I seperated the front part of the badge from the backing plate and scraped out all the old lettering. I then painted the lettering white, waited for it to dry and gave the back a few coats of black. Came out pretty good, its not perfect but looks a lot better than it did. Ive also started to get some parts together for the car in preparation for next summer. An ignition overhaul kit including a new dizzy cap, rotor arm and some blue magnecor ignition leads . A selection of silicone blanking plugs, going to see what the car sounds like with the bov blanked and some 6mm and 8mm blanks for plugging holes on the intake manifold. Ive ordered a catch tank and breather set up from Dean at RW developments as my PCV valve looks rather tired. I figured instead of replacing the pcv valve id rather have a free flowing breather set up ready for when I turn the boost up. Hoping to get down to tuning developments for a map next year. I would like to turn the boost up to around a bar and see how the car goes, I feel like it has the right supporting modifications now and should make a decent power figure.
  20. my approach for the best & cheapest 4efte swap into a e11 corolla. for good reliable power of around 190hp parts needed: complete 4efte engine out of a later glanza 98 model, with all attachments, inlet, exhaust+turbo, flywheel, and much better ct9b turbo. use all the engine mounts and bracket off the e11 4efe fitted to the 4efte (this should be only 1x engine mount on the right side chassis member all the others are attached to the e11 gearbox and will not need touching. 212mm gt turbo/glanza/toyota (original clutch unit will take around 200hp). new 4efe e11 oil pump and seals, including the crank front main oil seal fitted to the 4efte engine before install with new cam belt if required. crank rear main oil seal. (serviceable item, they go hard after a certain period of time) acl standard size big end bearing kit. (tuning developments sell these high load bearing that are a must for today's fast dyno ecu mappers ) 4efte decat pipe section of the exhaust. full aftermarket exhaust system. aftermarket fuel pump (walbro). aftermarket piggyback ecu. like the ecu master det3 or aem unit. some of these piggy backs are designed for N/A or turbo use, so make sure you get the correct 1, also some of these have an additional pwm control table (built in boost control) all you need is a pwm valve wired into the control unit. universal intercooler piping kit, intercooler core to fit the e11. hks ct9 adjustable turbo actuator. air filter and piping. parts i would get but not required: a good electronic boost controller, boost gauge, exhaust gas temp gauge. parts that will require fabrication: the piggy back control unit wires into the 4efe engine loom requiring around 6 wires. (no 4efte ecu or loom required). the dizless e11 system and ems is far better/faster than the 4efte distributor type. e11 4efe inlet manifold to house the 4efte inlet temp sensor or the 4efe original inlet temp sensor. (if the 4efte sensor is going to be used the plug for the sensor will be needed). keep the 4efe throttle body, this will hit the required 190hp. 4efte lower power steering bracket/mount to house the 4efe e11 power steering pump. 4efte decat pipe, to avoid the e11 front engine mount and front to rear engine mount support beam/cross-member. full exhaust system 2.5inch to 3inch with high-flow cat for the best performance. extended lamba sensor wiring to reach to the new decat pipe position. (use the e11 original lamba/o2 sensor). ill put up detailed info of how id carry out all of the above modes. there should be no other plug swaps required. all other 4efe sensors will just swap into the 4efte engine and work fine. i will also put up info of how to wire in the det3 piggy back. universal inter-cooler pipe kit cut to size and cleaned out before use. mount inter-cooler core. porting the exhaust manifold out. porting/opening up the ct9b waste gate port. air filter kit and piping. things ill have to look further into on this swap. the 4efte distributor/head mounting point, is there a cap/cover on the 4efe e11 to blank this off and mount the dizless coils in the distributors place. i could do with you having a look here on yours to answer this question please. EVERYTHING ELSE WILL SWAP OVER AND TAKE THE POWER. ecu master det3 tuner how to wire into the 4efe dizless system. wiring diagrams wire colours and ecu pin outs to come. how to install the 4efte intake sensor or the original 4efe e11 intake temp sensor into the corolla intake manifold. you can see the added 4efte intake air temp sensor and threaded mount that is wielded into the e11 intake manifolds plenum chamber. the sensor is a 2pin plug and can be wired in either using the toyota original plug or 2x small female spade terminals (speaker terminals) the original wire will need extending in order to reach the new sensor position. option 2: the original sensor mounted into the same point this picture is how ive mounted the original 4efe ep91 plastic air temp sensor into the ep91 intake manifold. thew the manifolds are different the same approach can be used just mount it in the e11 manifold in the same place as the previous picture of the 4efte sensor. use sealant or and a additional sealing Oring. inside photo picture of the difference between the 2x sensors, these sensors use the same resistance to temp operational scale. lamba sensor position in the 4efte decat pipe. this pipe is bolted to the turbos exhaust side outlet and drops down the front of the engine to the exhaust system. another option here is to cap/blank off this port and leave the lamba sensor unplugged leaving the ems ecu to run in open loop, but a de-cated exhaust system will be needed, also the engine warning light might be on permanently. . also this is the pipe that will require fabrication to avoid the corollas front engine mount that is positioned and attached to the gearbox bellhousings front edge. this will foul the down section of this 4efte decat pipe. the 4efte power steering modification. this normally will come with the 4efte engine. this bracket will foul the underside of the e11 4efe power steering pump, and the adjuster hole seen above does not line up with the e11 4efe pump bolt hole. the e11 pump bolt hole is around 1.5inch further in and also closer to the engine. the 4efte bracket above is required to be used because the 4efte oil filter housing steps off towards this bottom power steering bracket. this bracket gives the oil filter housing the additions room needed. now what i would do is to cut the bracket in the picture above so as to allow the e11 4efe pump to move freely and not catch this bracket allowing adjustment (it stops the pumps belt to be removed/replaced, so downwards movement). were the cut is required is at the tip of the adjustment hole you can see in the picture above. around 1inch from the tip of the adjustment hole (just anuff to remove/replace the belt). this allows the e11 pump anuff room to move to remove/replace the belt when required. now an additional bracket is needed to be made/fabricated (very simple) in order to line up the e11 4efe pump hole with this 4efte adjustment bracket hole. this is a 3inch in length peace of inch wide flat steel bar with 1x 12mm hole at either end (2xholes in total) now welde 2x 12mm nuts together, now wield them to the flat bar inline with 1 of the drilled 12mm holes (so when a bolt is fitted/screwed into the 12mm bolts it passes threw the hole in the flat bar) now bolt it all together the nut/nuts end of the flat bar bracket attaches to the rear face (oil filter side) of the 4efte bracket in the picture above, the 2x wielded nuts and the bar take up the space needed to alight the new flat bar bracket with the e11 4efe power steering pump. fit the belt, have the new bracket (flat bar) fitted, but loose, place a heal bar under the pump so as to pri it upwards and put tension onto the belt, now just tighten up the new bracket bolts at either end. IF YOU COULD GET PICTURES OF THIS PROCESS TAKEN IT WILL HELP THE LADS DOING 4EFE+T CONVERTIONS ON THERE UK EP91 EP80. THIS ALSO WORKS ON THESE 4EFE VEHICLES/FACTORY POWER STEERING PUMPS.
  21. 500 for rear callipers or spend 100 and have an as new NA drum axl, that's what I'm for doing
  22. Sam44

    GR Yaris

    im also interested. i could do with a 5 door for the kids. it does look mean.
  23. Last week
  24. When they finally get released here in Ireland they will just shy of €50k which is a bit steep
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...