Quick Question About Adjusting Boost

[Carl.]

ive recently bought my v and its boosting 0.8 or maybe 0.85 not sure at the moment as i havent drove it much yet but i know its something in that region...... anywayyyy

just wondering whether my actuator is likely to be standard with boost set at the above or wether it would be an aftermarket one?

[chr15_7_t_]

if its aftermarket its have a wee nut on it...to adjust it ... but before u adjust it higher make sure uve got a fcd

[Carl.]

if its aftermarket its have a wee nut on it...to adjust it ... but before u adjust it higher make sure uve got a fcd

so you cant adjust the standard one then? how is it that its boosting 0.8 bar then?

[Carl.]

so you cant adjust the standard one then? how is it that its boosting 0.8 bar then?

providing it is standard that is lol

[chr15_7_t_]

nope...hmm corect me if i am wrong sumone but could this be caused by a weak actuator?

have u got an fcd fitted? cause ul be dangerously close to fuel cut

[chriswoodfto]

it boost at 0.8 standard. id do abit of research before you just wack the boost up, theres other bits and peices you need first to turn it up safely, (im in the process of sourcing all these parts)

guys recomened me to get,

manifold,

de-cat,

uprated actuator,

fmic,

boost controller,

boost gauge,

decent bov,

then either fcd, (which was highly disputed)

or proper one was a emanage blue tos ort out the fueling.

u dont wana fry sumit by just winding up the boost.

[chr15_7_t_]

i thought 0.68 bar is standard boost :S

[Carl.]

nope...hmm corect me if i am wrong sumone but could this be caused by a weak actuator?

have u got an fcd fitted? cause ul be dangerously close to fuel cut

maybe its aftermarket actuator then because id imagine if it was a standard weak actuator then i would get boost creep which i dont think im getting tbh.

i havent hit fuel cut.. yet (fingers crossed) and as for fcd im not really sure but ive checked behind the glove box near ecu and cant see one.

[chr15_7_t_]

just look at the actuator and if ther is a wee nut then it wont be standard...

[chriswoodfto]

you could be right (0.68 bar) i was always told 0.8 but i havnt had it long.

youll be able to tell in second if its uprated, the metal shaft will have a long threaded peice on it and a nut on that at some point.

the eml would flash just before fuel cut..

[chr15_7_t_]

i think 0.8bar is just about fuel cut though...so if i was you id get a fuel cut defender

[Carl.]

i heard 0.85 is fuel cut if the engine can breathe good (relocated air intake, decat, full exhaust) either that or its 0.85 full stop

[chriswoodfto]

its gota apexi boost controller on mine, was boosting to 0.83- no fuel cut, changed the tmic to a rx7 tmic and it boosts 0.88 now, still no fuel cut. ive got everything to up boost now but the ecu.

to be honest mate id sort the other bits before you up the boost to much, its allright putting a fcd on it and upping the boost, but if it does fry summit itll be a lot bigger bill than getting the other bits together 1st.

[chr15_7_t_]

^^^^ good call

[chriswoodfto]

theres a thread on gtturbo site about it, ill try find u it and post it up mate.

[chriswoodfto]

here you go dude, the post from sticky section on gtturbo site.. all i would add to that is the last section on the fcd. i had a big discussion on here about them, yeah its better to have one than not, but to be 110% sure its fueling correctly you need to upgrade to a ecu, emanage blue etc, its abit more to fork out for it but like i said before, be alot cheaper to buy that than rebuild a knakerd engine.

So, you're hankering after some more power out of your EP eh? Here's a quick guide on what you need to do...

Service the car

Before you even consider buying any upgrades for your car, when was it last serviced? When was the timing belt changed? If you don't know, do it. It is fruitless spending money on upgrading parts and gleaning more power out of the 4E if your oil is like treacle and your timing belt is like the elastic in your favourite and well worn pair of shitcatchers. I'm sure you wouldn't want to run a marathon eating only dried bread and wearing a Borat Mankini, so your EP won't appreciate being asked to bang out ~30% above stock power on some shitty old oil and filters and a knackered timing belt.

-

Ok, so you've serviced the car. What's next?

Look at your suspension and brakes? Are they standard? Yes? Upgrade them. It is pointless having a blisteringly quick EP if it can't stop or go round corners. Not only is it embarrassing when your car dives off the road to chase hedgehogs, it is also dangerous and life threatening both for you, your passengers and other road users. Further guides on the basics of suspension and brake upgrades will be posted shortly.

-

Car serviced and handling/braking mods fitted? Excellent, now the fun begins.

Now that your EP is running nicely and actually goes round corners and stops, it's time to start releasing some of the potential out of the 4E. Despite the fact the 4E is essentially a Singer sewing machine with a Barbie hairdryer strapped to it, it is quite a potent little 4-banger. That combined with the EP's kitkat wrapper weight makes for a spicey little package.

The stock CT9 turbo on the GT Turbo and Glanza can be ran at 1.0 bar (14.5psi) all day long and, with the following supporting mods, will see 170-180bhp at the flywheel. Much more than 1 bar and the little CT9 starts to struggle and runs out of puff. An increase from 0.8 bar to 1.0 bar might see you gain 20 or so bhp, but an increase from 1.0 bar to 1.2 will not see a similar gain. This is because the CT9 is being run well beyond it's efficiency envelope and starts to just blow hotter and hotter air, which is not good.

Anyway, I'm sure you're all itching to get modding, so here's what you need.

Full exhaust system - 2.25" is recommended, although I run 2.5" with no issues.

De-cat pipe - Keep the Cat, you'll need it for MOT time. More on this later.

Exhaust Manifold - The stock one has a restriction in runner #3 that will cause you all manner of ball and wallet ache if ignored. This recent topic goes into a little detail on why.

Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) - Absolute minimum requirement to control your fueling. Running lean is bad. Very bad. SARD is the popular choice.

Adjustable actuator set to 1 bar (14.5psi) - Used to control the boost levels. HKS is the popular choice.

Plugs and leads - If you've not changed them yet, get some. I use NGK Iridium (Heat range 7) plugs and Magnecor 8.5mm leads (red), although having broken two sets, I'd avoid as they're a bit shit.

Intercooler - Whether you opt for Front mount (FMIC) or top mount (TMIC) is personally preference. FMIC is more and generally more expensive, although it is better at cooling and less prone to heat soak. RX7 top mounts are popular for those opting for TMIC's.

Fuel Cut Defender - You will also need to fit a Fuel Cut Defender (FCD) to bypass the stock ECU's fuel cut level to enable boosting to 1 bar. This should only be fitted once the rest of the fueling and support mods are on and ready to set up!

(Thanks to lingl9z for the reminder on this, I knew I had forgotten something! )

It is also recommended to change the fuel pump as the stock ones can be tired. The Walboro 255lph is the popular choice. I would also recommend purchasing some gauges to keep an eye on things. Boost, oil temp, oil pressure and water temps would be the best to have to keep an eye on the essentials.

Other additional mods can be used such as boost controllers, management and additional electronic trickery to make best use of the mods above, although they aren't essentials and are just preferential items.

That's about it. You should now have a Starlet that handles and stops reasonably well and surprises a good number of larger and more powerful cars. Just be sensible with it and drive carefully!

[Ryan-11]

theres no point just putting a fcd on you'll still need something to get the fueling sorted best to keep it at .8 or back to standard boost .65 i think