Zafar

I am planning on making a hybrid engine from a 5e-fe dis bottom end and a 4e-fe head(1st gen 5e-fe very rare). I have found the difference in compression between the engines is the amount of crown on the pistons. roughly 2mm crown=9.8:1, 1.5mm=9.6:1 and 1mm=9.4:1 I want to use the normal head gasket(TRD difficult to import). I will be using the 4e-fe pistons as the crown is 3.5mm which i can then shave to get the desired compression.

If running the 4e-fe ecu which is mapped for 9.6:1 can i run this compression without any fuelling mods?

Would 10.0:1 be too high?

What is the highest compression ratio you can run on a 1st gen 4e-fe/5e-fe engine without causing detonation or damage on normal pump gas?

How can you check your normal unleaded gas octane level?

So here is the guide:

1) Run your engine until normal operating temperature.

2) Bridge TE1 and E1 on the diagnostics module.

3) Depending on your strobe (connect Tach signal to IG- on diagnostics module) , positive and negative to your battery.

4) Connect the receiver to Spark Plug lead No.1(It just hooks on top).

5) with the engine at idle (900 Rpms) shine the strobe down on the crank shaft pulley.

6) There will be a mark on the pulley lining up to a plate with degrees.

7) Ensure its on 10.

If it is no probelm.

9) If it isnt open the two bolts on the distributor and gently turn it until the mark lines up with the 10 degree mark.

10) Switch off engine, Tighten up the distributor bolts.

11) Start engine again and re-check the timing.

Hope this was helpful.

N.B:-I highly suggest cleaning your throttle body before doing the timing as it sticks giving you a wrong reading. The response after is totally worth it.

After alot of digging have some Info:

4E-FE - High compression pistons followed by 5E-FE then 5E-FE DIS

4E-FE & 5E-FE Have the same heads 5E-FE DIS has oval shaped ports

4E-FE & 5E-FE Have same TB (50mm)but 5E-FE DIS Has a smaller TB (45mm)

Head gasket size 4E-FE = ?mm 5E-FE = 1mm 5E-FE = 0.5mm

(Fensport sell TRD Head gasket for 4E-FE which is 0.6mm so original must be bigger than that)

Other Info 5E-FE DIS(Sorry if this is copyright but cant find that site again to ask permission):

It incorperates smaller diameter and longer runners along with a smaller plenum. And, while it shares the same intake manifold bolt pattern the port shape of the intake ports on the head and manifold are much more oval shaped than the 1st gen 5E-FE. Oddly enough the cross sectional area of the two intake port shapes are nearly identical. The exhaust ports and bolt pattern remained the same.

The 2nd gen 5E-FE is also more technically advanced than its older brother. It utilizes knock sensing and a distributorless ignition system. It is also OBDII compliant.

In 1997 there was a small redesign done to the 2nd gen 5E-FE. Toyota was able to pass emissions without the use of an EGR valve and instead used an advanced charcoal canister system. Along with this change they altered the fuel system to be a returnless type.

In my knowledge these are the compression ratios for:

5E-FE - 9.4:1(100hp)

5E-FE DIS - 9.4:1(94hp)

4E-FE - 9.6:1(100hp)

5E-FHE - 9.8:1(110hp)

Questions:

1) Where is the difference coming from? i.e:- Pistons,head gaskets,heads?

2) By putting the 4E-FE head on the 5E-FE will i get a compression ratio of 9.4:1 and lose power?

3) Is it possible to have the 4E/5E hybrid at a compression of 9.8:1 safely?

Thanks for all the help guys. As for ading the FHE parts, the FHE engine is very rare here meaning very high$ so no point in that. Will just use the 4E head and 5E ECU if i can get it and increase compression if i can. Any place in UK that sells the TRD head gasket? How much is it? I have a relative coming over soon(no postage charge!! ).

EDIT: Just got a quote from Fensport of 62.21 pounds (Within UK postage). Sound reasonable? Any other places i can try?

Really i thought Port and Polish needed a bench flow thingamajigie or something like that. Could it be done with some elbow grease? Maybe just polish properly and not mess too much with the flow properties?

Exactly now you got what i was after. As the 5e-fe DIS are available with little milage. Anything i can do to improve power while the engine is open? Port and Polish is out os the question no one trustable with the right equipment. Is it possible to re-bore and use 4a-fe (1.6lt) pistons and rings?

I am finding it hard to get a distributor type low milage 5E-FE so i was thinking why not get a 5E-FE DIS rip the head off and use the current 4e-fe head with the rolla manifold? Is it advisable to use a thinner gasket and up the compression like using the TRD one? Dont want a turbo just a nice nippy starlet. The 4e-fe lacks that.

Can a 4E-FE head fit on a 5E-FE dis(No distributor) block? Considering that this can be done what else would you suggest when the engine is open to increase power after the normal engine re-build?

How do you set the timing(on dizzy) when the car is on idling? Using a strobe light where do you connect it and which mark do you look at? I heard it helps to put some paint on the mark so its easier to see?

Finally does your environment (outside temps)affect your idling timing?

Does anyone have the corolla g6 (1.3 4e-fe 6 speed) gearbox code?

OK RESULTS:

After testing with 3 full tanks(1,2,3 Oz per 10 gals):

1) Fuel Ecomony = same

2) Power = Terrible lag

Changes:

After reseting the ECU and advancing the timing the silly lag is still there. Very annoying. Waiting for the third tank to clear then can resume using normal gas.

Fuel:

Dont have any 92 0r 96 or any of that stuff. We just have Unleaded Super.

Acetone:

100% pure from paint manufacturers.

Damage:

No damage to any parts. Acetone was supplied in plastic container, Used the small cups you get with medicine for measurement they didnt melt as well. Any part made to be resistant to fuel can handle this stuff.It's used as nail polish remover.

Ill go with Mythbusters - Acetone as fuel additive = Totally Busted!!

Same here with the light coming on at 1/4 tank. Got fed up one day so kept some fuel in the car and tested how many kms the car would give me from the time the light first comes on. Clocked 97kms before i ran out. I have an ep82 with no tach still has a fuel light though.

Dont know if anyone has tried this on their EP.

http://www.fuelsaving.info/acetone.htm

And

http://www.industrialnewsupdate.com/news/o...one_in_fuel.php

I am going to try it as soon as the Acetone is delivered. Will post up results for anyone who is interested.

First Test = 1.5ml to liter (2 ounces per 10 Gals)

Second Test = 2.5ml to Liter (3 Ounces per 10 Gals)

Sorry forgot to mention i have 1991 N/A ep82 with 4E-FE engine. Nope we use the same oil 10/40 no one here uses anything lighter as the temp never falls below 12 celsius. Mostly its between 22-30 all year round. I guess starlets just burn oil. i drive 25kms to work and back everyday and having a 4 speed the engine revolutions are higher when cruising than in a 5 speed.

My jig died. So i used a hot knife!! Easy as its plastic. Just be careful to steer clear of the supports.

A week ago i checked my oil level as i always do and everything was normal. The oil level was below the full mark when the engine was cold. So yesterday my oil light suddenly flickers and comes on. I checked and oil and nothing no indication of oil at all on the dip stick!! had to put in 2 and a half liters to get it up again. I park in the same spot at home and at work day in, day out so if there was a leak i would have seen it. The car does not under any circumstances remove blue smoke so i know its not being burnt.

So where did the Oil go? Will go and drain the coolant today to check that and check the engine area on a ramp. Im seriously baffled.

OK This is is really weird, checked the coolant no oil, the whole engine bay no leaks!!! Well strike one more for the Twilight Zone.

Excellent Info! Excellent links. Thanks Joz. Enzo i will post pics of both cars when i can get some time.

4E-FE Engine 4 speed manual gearbox. Claims to be 100bhp but i dont think it is. I have a toyota sprinter as well 5a-fe engine excellent engine.

I drive an EP-82 n/a starlet dont have any pictures yet. Ill post it up when i can get some pics. ACIS sounds cool. If i was to get a complete 5e-fhe engine complete with wiring harness and ECU the swap shouldnt be too hard.

I say this because japanese parts are available in the plenty here.

If i am not wrong enzo, you tried a 5e-fhe conversion what part did you get stuck? What is ACIS?

What is the difference between the 5e-fe and 5e-fhe? Can a head from a 5e-fhe be put on a 5e-fe?

I had the same problem. cleaned the rotor inside the distributor and voila problem gone. Sorry dont have any pics but the rotor had lots of corrosion on it. before that i had done a diagnostics - no codes which led me to check all physical aspects.

I also de-cat the exhaust but no noticable change at all, if at all i felt like the car lost some power.