gazza g

which intake pipe did you take off?

does your idle seem okay as vacuum leaks will cause an increase in revs, this would give you an idea on where to start, if revs are okay the leak is before the throttle body.

i have a set of roose ones, the bottom rad hose fit no problem but the top i had to trim a bit off slightly, possibly due to my large radiator sitting closer than standard.

silicone wont crack/perish like rubber, will last a lot longer.

silicone is a harder than rubber, i had a couple of issues with slight weeping but used better quality jubilee clips and not had a leak since, just make sure the surfaces are clean before install.

it could be the fuel pressure regulator not holding pressure when cranking, could also be a dodgy idle control valve, possibly a coolant temp sensor?

does it idle okay once started?

any fault codes?

Hi lads and ladies,

I have got the dredded abs light light on, i got codes 31 32 41 which i cleared, after taking it for a spin i got code 31 back up. Removed osf sensor and cleared rust debris off and checked sensor for continuity (1.5kohms) cleared fault and light is still illuminated

The light is perminatly luminated after switching to ignition, pump doesnt prime, strange thing is when reading codes the light doesnt blink like the engine light it just dims slightly and you struggle to read the 31 code, could this point to abs module malfuntion?

Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for the abs system i cant seem to find anything now photobucket has screwed us over, i didnt want to remove the abs but this is an option, i would ideally want to keep the system regardless of how crap it is.

Cheers
 

hard to come by im afraid...

putting flanges and a removable section in place is the only option, as cars that are supposed to be fitted with a CAT must have one present for the purposes of an  MOT or you could have chanced it to see if it would pass.

faulty ignition components usually give a misfire not complete failure then spring back to life. could it be a safety feature of some sort with the unichip, like excess boost at higher loads and ignition is cut to prevent damage?

either a friendly Test station or performance CAT, could flange it so its removal? 

Have a look in breaking section

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Jordk has a set i think

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Press the piston on the caliper all the way back. Should sit flush.

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Carbon synchro's

1.Calum122

2.faiyaz.123

3.crispyeel

4.Grumglanza

5.Siwfc

6.Winspaa

7.Niko922

8.*Pete*

9. Kbond

10. Zoib_786

11. Socks

12. 5T4R7ET/NA

13. Gazza g

Gearset or 3rd & 4th gears?

1. Socks

2. Amjad

3. Faiyaz.123

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Replied

No previous work done, no bore work ext. Must come with caps.

Cheers

I'm wondering now guys if the whole speed sensor can be taken out & if I can use one from another gearbox I've got

Yes they can be taken out but they are a bastard to do once stuck, just take your time and don't be tempted to start butchering it with a hammer. Clean as much crap off as you can, screw the driveshaft nut on top and use something to leaver against the nut, this is how I got mine out.

Screw a drive shaft nut on and use that as purchase to get it out with a pry bar. Don't use too much force warm it up a little if it's pretty stick in.

its the cat over temperature sensor, could indicate its either blocking up or you have a lead right foot!

Sounds good mate, not seen you around. Only glanza I've seen is a silver one with a fuck off intercooler on the front aha ill have to keep and due out for you dude

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That's probably me!

Rear beam, front and rear arm, front anti roll bar bushes. Whilst you at it drop links. Id workz do all bushes and also do a compete kit if you take a look.

If it's a coolant leak to cylinders on boost wouldn't it blow the coolant out the radiator? It is running 1.4bar , I would see other issues surly like overheating or blowing the radiator popping a hose ext.

On the worst case it will fill the rear view mirror when stop start traffic, but 90% of the time it isn't as bad as that. Coolant system has been pressure tested on cold and hot with no issues. It is a very weird one that's why am asking you guys, am usually pretty good with cars but this is very strange. I'll mention the sniffer test to prove/disprove it's coolant.

When I top coolant up it's possibly around 100-200ml, when forged the head was rebuilt with new valves guides and valves. I had heard that toyota stem seals can be a little dodgy even when new so I gave him updated zisco ones to fit, I'll give him a ring and get some advise, makes sense when coasting you pulling high vacuum that oil will be sucked into the chamber, I do know it's a high compression build.

It uses oil but was told all forged engines use a bit, I do top coolant up once a month.

Would valve stems do this then Colin?

It's 1 million % not condensation it's been doing it months. I'll just take it back and be without it another few months I suppose.

Hi guys

I have an issue with the car smoking, colour wise it's greyish, engine is around 6k old after going forged, the smoking occurs when the engine is hot, never does it on idle or on boost(that I can see), it's when I coast then touch the throttle, in stop start traffic you can't see out there rear window.

I have had the car back at the garage the engine was built and they have done compression and leak down, bore scope, removed turbo chra and inspected and found nothing and suggested moisture in the exhaust but after the weather we have had this is now highly unlikely.

Would valve stems cause this to happen, as before now smoke on idle and no smoke on startup either. It's slowly getting worse.

Cheers

Forged silver v, never knew there was so many around this area