kotbehemot

Theoretically ebc solenoid is new ... but who knows. I still have few months of warranty. If i will have time, i will connect additional MAP sensor to vacum line that powers the actuator and check what is the pressure there while i have that overboost. If i wont have time, i will just make a claim and let "them" to check it (or most probably change to new one). thx I still have my MBC but for me it was pain in the ... I was not able to have the right setup for cold and warm weather, boost spike after gear drop was occurring, etc (planned boost level ~0.8 bar). Thats why i have "inve

Strange thing is happening when i am accelerating: - 2nd gear / ~40 km/h - then full acceleration - boost gauge is showing steady 0.65 bar (not rising) - ... suddenly ~0.9 bar and fuel cut This "overboost" is not happening everytime. Do anybody have idea why it can happen? Where should i look for the reason of this situation? Westgate or actuator is jamming?? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Car spec (EP82 with 4E-FTE): - standard CT9 - standard fuel pressure - exhaust 2.5" with end muffler - standard TMIC + standard DV (as blow off now) - Apexi air filter mounted

Thanks for the info I have bought that set (it's almost as new - less then 5.000 miles).

Yes , they are from EP91. So those should fit , rigrht? I am worried because according to OEM part number shocks for EP82 and EP91 are different. Somebody has swapped suspension from EP91 to EP82 (or from EP82 to EP91) ?

I can buy in good price set of used 4 shocks + springs, to be exact: - front ones are KAYABA, rear are MONROE - all have MTS lowering springs -35mm Set is from '97 Starlet. Question is: will above set fit into EP82 (as P&P set) ?

After shutting engine off , fuel pressure was droping slowly. But i didn't wait to see what value it will drop to. Is it good idea to buy AFR gauge for 1V lambda sensor? I know that reading wont be accurate , but at least i would know if its runnig rich or lean.

Problem is that i don't have wideband. Only standard lambda sensor with single wire. I have checked fuel pressure becuse during cold start: if i try to start the engine right away i have hesitating. But when i wait a while with fuel pump on, then it starts faster. So my shot was that pump dies , because it seems that it needs more time to build the pressure. Also pump is whining all the time. Something like Walbro does. I have pulled out the pump today and .. i have no idea what it is. There is written (see picture): 4124E 12V MADE IN JAPAN It doesnt look like original be

Hi, I have measured fuel pressure with stock FPR and standard fuel pump. Results (@ inlet preasure -> fuel pressure): @ 0 bar (engine off, fuel pump running) -> ~3 bar @ -0.7 bar (idlling) -> ~2.4 bar @ +0.7 bar (on boost) -> ~3.3 bar I am afraid that fuel pressure on boost is too low. Shouldnt it be around 3.7 bar? What is stock fuel pressure? Engine is standard 4E-FTE with standard pump, standard FPR, standard turbo CT9, 2.5" exhaust.

Those are quite fine for a track but for daily usage are to stiff. I was rather thinking to have 2 sets and change them if needed. I was looking for OEM suspension on ebay but i didnt found any set that is p&p. Without difficulties i can only buy suspension parts for N/A version ... because of my "location" ;-) So if you want to sell your standard suspension , the bigest problem can be the shipment.

I have gas shocks made by TEIN + TEIN springs + "spacers". Car is too stiff for me. Can i remove those "spacers" (see picture below)? Will it be better? Or i can just drop those nuts (rings) to release springs a little bit?

When engine is on idle and you put load (lights, blower at max, etc. in the same time) rpm will go down - if you have dirty idle valve. Dirty idle valve shouldnt affect higher rpm then idle rpm (max 1100 rpm). Because with higher rpm, throtle is more open (different route for air going into engine). So if you have problems in range 1200-3000 rpm , you should check throttle. Maybe it is dirty and when it opens a little bit (low rpm) then air cant go into the engine.

I have cleaned mine using instruction from link below and is working much better now. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?58177-Idle-Control-Valve-Removal-and-cleaning-*

Hi, Check your idle valve and clean. It solved my problem. See below link for the instruction how to do it: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?58177-Idle-Control-Valve-Removal-and-cleaning-*

Today i had strange deeling that my problem can be caused by dizzy and rotor arm. I checked it in spring 2013 and was ok but i decided to check it again - there are only 2 screws. And it was good idea , because i saw this view: It looks like that pins are quite used and rusty (were ok few months ago). Most probably it is the cause of that strange fuel cut. I have grinded those pins a little bit with sandpaper go get rid of that white coating. After that, engine startet faster then normal and seems to be working steady. Tomorrow i will make longer check.

Hi, These days i have strange problem with engine. It only happens when engine is cold. It happend 3 times in last 2 months of daily driving. While on iddle or slowly accelerating it behaves as it would get fuel cut (not possible - i have boost gauge). Check engine light is turning on for few seconds - as error codes it shows only No 12. But it was always there (standard ECU) and caused most probably by starter (you can hear hesitating while starting engine). Patient is LHD EP82 swapped with 4E-FTE. HT leads are new - from Magnecor. Spark plugs were checked - are ok. Ignition coi