Danz_ep95

Bump

After a high spec Glanza or Gt has to be clean and with a decent spec looking around 6.5k pm me if any about cheers in advance

he said 11.4-11.7 ON IDLE, that is very rich.

Yea it's too rich for idle

What boost are you running?

2.4 bar is standard fuel pressure

.9 - 1 bar

Hi guys , having a little issue with my glanza it seems to be running really rich on tick over when the car is up to temp ... I have changed coolant temp sensor it has a new thermostat I changed the map sensor and my afr gauge is always showing 11.4-11.7 when warm and that is just on tick over ... any suggestions of what it could be .. my fpr is set at 3.4 bar could be down to my fpr or something else ... cheers in advance

Hi all , I recently just did a manual conversion on my 4paw and whilst doing that I've just dropped a stock 5e just for time being. Got a few issues with the key not wanting to come out ...

And also it missing whilst accelerating , could this issue be down to it having a auto ecu and is there any things I need to change

Thanks

Wanting a livesports front bumper for a glanza let me knw what's out there

It's been written off cat b

Wanted cheap rolling shell just needing engine and box located near Yorkshire any one got one

Live sports or cruise genuine wings wanted for a ep91 pm me cheers

how much is the gearbox if its in good condition?

Bump

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/102018-unfinished-mk1-gt-project/?fromsearch=1

Cheers will give him a try

Wanted a mk1 starlet gt

not fussed on body work aslong as there is no rotten sils and rust etc

close to yorkshire as possible willing to pay good money for the right one

the shafts should be the same.

the only real difference apart from brake pipe plumbing between abs and non-abs is the rings on the cv joints or on the back of the disks at the rear.

i know from experience abs/non-abs cv joints are the same you just knock the abs ring off.and the rear disks just don't have them on its even machined to fit one.

so i doubt abs will effect shit you may just have to knock a ring off.

with regards to the shafts.. most car companies won't make different shafts for the autos and manuals because of cost and the way they are built in huge batches.

it all just bolts on as one, hubs, shocks, shafts, disc etc.. (i think at each bay on the production line they have 2-3 minutes to perform a task.)

i did an auto-manual conversion on my 205 because the autos had lower compression engines for turbo fun and I didn't even separate the shafts from the wheel hub.

Just out and straight back into a manual box, not saying its the same but, stands to reason.

I see mate thanks for clearing that up for me will have a try and see how it goes

shame you dont leave the auto in it as i had great fun in my auto when i had it

Hi all I'm doing my auto to manual conversion on my 4paw are the auto shafts same as manual and I've got abs on mine will that be an issue cheers

Type 5E taggy's build into google and all will be revealed.

Cool but will it be same for a 4paw box ?

Hi all I've got a 5e going into my 4paw for time being its Na and stock engine will the gearbox fit do I need to get an adapter kit for flywheel and clutch and what prices we talking cheers

If that's the case mate get it to a rolling road ASAP

Might have to do

I will say though mate all cars will vary with different settings etc,

Ok so when your up to temp mate and idle is steady, is the fpr then showing 3.4 bar? If so adjust it and drop it down to 3 bar, but like Colin said and I have asked still waiting for your answer mate here what is your afr readings on full boost,

Do it in 3rd and 4th and see what readings your getting,

Obviously on a good clear straight road

I've only recently fitted the afr mate and haven't taken it out due to it running so rich and I've been advised not to kick it with it fueling that bad

That could be the problem right there mate, them hks fcd are a nightmare if people don't know what there doing, mine was already on the car when brought it, but to cut a long story short got a wideband in and the results were shocking started playing around with the fueling on the fpr and settings on the fcd and it isn't good mate,

Look at your fcd and see what number it's set to please

What boost are you actually getting on the boost gauge aswell?

Fcd is set to 9 and I get close to a bar but it's not quick

On my brothers car fuel is at 3.4 and works a treat

wel reading that just live with it if the afr is good on boost then so be it

if you want nice afr at cruise and on boost run 7 psi or so and get rid of the fpr and fcd its a fecking crude setup that only works in 1 area

I see

Back to basics I reckon here Colin what fcd is it, what its set to etc, if there's no fcd, then 3.4 bar is way to high, my cars fpr is set to 2.3 bar that's up to temp and fpr vac hose on, getting in low 11's on wot

I'm running a hks fcd my mechanic set it for me and wen warm my afr showing 12.4-12.5 max

Your running 3.4 at what boost?

If that's 3.4 warmed up with vaccum hose on that is wayyyyyyyyy to much that needs to come down to like 2.3 bar and go from there

I've been told that good fueling

What's the fpr set to mate and what readings are you getting at wot etc

3.4