1989martin1

Thanks for the help I couldn't see why it had holes in the shell was definitely covering this hole, just to add the lad that had it built didn't run it in at all he just went high boost from day 1, the little end is free and moving fine too I have a feeling it's possibly been oil starvation

Yeah I got the reciepts to go with it for £1100 it's all brand new parts I'm thinking the oil clearance has probably been the issue got hot and expanded then messed everything up, the main bearings are all ok no scoring etc it's literally all in cylinder 3, I also need to get the cylinder bore measured as I think it's been rebored when it was built so if I need a replacement piston and ring it'll be a larger size Would lack of oil cause this?

To say it only did a few hundred miles make me question wether it was built correctly

It's already been apart once before I bought it so that wasn't an option, I'd also say it's an oil issue but it's a brand new pump that's on, everything was changed looking at it apart from the crank

I see mate well I'll be getting a full new fuel rail and injectors if that was the cause originally it'll be hopefully gone by then, if the bearing has spun and blocked the hole would this explain the serious wear? I bought the engine to repair in the first place so it's all a learning curve this engine isn't going in a glanza though so I haven't a clue how they are built just learning off stuff on here and going from there

Cheers Colin so new crank rod and piston it is

I know mate it's in pretty bad shape to be honest, I'm going to take it next week and see what they say, I'm not sure how the oils fed into each cylinder but is there a chance the bearing spinning has blocked the feed into the piston? I think I'll just buy another rod and piston for cylinder 3 just to be safe

Well today I stripped down the 4e and found big end on piston 3 has spun, left some deep scoring on the shaft not even sure it's serviceable need some opinions Also noticed the piston is really discoloured compared to 1.2 and 4 the bore looks fine but I'm not sure wether to change the rod and piston anyway just in case Also can you buy the caps on the rods separately? I'd just like to change all of them the rods and Pistons have only covered 500 miles before the bottom end started knocking, oil pump looks alright too just wondering what my best options are from here?

Excellent thank you very much Colin I'll get the guys to check it all over and give me the sizes and the bearing sizes I need if the crank is no good I'll just get a new one

Wow I didn't realise the tolerances were so tight, The engine isn't running its knocking 500 miles after the previous owner rebuilt it, I haven't had time to check the actual shaft yet but I presume he's fucked up somewhere, so tomorrow I'll whip it out and take it into the machine shop at work and get it measured, what sizes am I looking for as in tolerance wise? Just want to know so I can either scrap it or get it ground

Ahh I get it now mate so as a standard shaft it could be between 3 sizes can you explain this to me Say my shaft is 1 43.00-43.07 am I right in assuming if I buy .25 oversized bearings the machinist will grind the shaft to 42.75 within the .07 tolerance ?

Cheers Colin I actually just want to know the diameters so I can work out if it's been done before if it has I'll just get it ground to .5 and get the oversized acl bearings I need an original reference so I know what I'm working with

Hey all Does anyone know the standard crankshaft diameters I've bought a new engine and I'm not sure if it's been reground already so I'm looking for the standard size so I can get it machined and buy the correct oversized bearings from td

Cheers dude and nah mate my brother did that a few years ago now but I've just learned from practice and reading online lol did you get that off mark bowman? Send me a message

update for you all from today, my paints reacted awfully over night and it looks like matte finish now anyways today I thought I'd have a good go at the final finishing Just to show you how bad it was before orange peel central So then I started wet sanding 2000 was taking far too long and I also read earlier today that using this rounds the edges of orange peel instead of cutting it off and flattening it so I started again with 800 pretty rough so have to be careful around the edges Then I started 1200 followed by 2000 used a diagonal sanding technique so I could see when the 800 sand

Ah cool cheers dude it's really coming along nicely, just made a deal on some new shoes for it some nice rota slipstreams Not sure what colour to go for with them but think they suit the car nicely

Cheers dude will be nice once it's been flatted and polished, just trying to source a decent 4e at the moment but doesn't seem to be much around

Finally got some good weather and all done before a nightshift tonight First off removed the spoiler and the glue then masked up all the windows etc gave the body a full solvent wipedown to remove any grease/oils then mixed up my paint wiped the body down with a tack rag to remove any dust particles and then it was time for midnight purple coat 1 2nd coat finished Then after that waited for the base to dry and then tack ragged and clear coat time I haven't done the door shuts yet as I wasn't sure how much paint it was going to take to cover the White but I've got plenty left for ano

Cheers guys it's going to be a fun little project and I'm looking forward to it is your mates white or blue by any chance?

No problem mate

Hi everyone I'm after a full working engine with all ancillaries basically everything in the bay including turbo and manifold, Also after an ep91 ecu and engine wiring loom

Basecoat dries in about 30 minutes mate Clear takes a good while its touch dry after about 15 minutes so nothing will stick in it but if you press your fingers in it'll leave finger prints for a few hours I find if I paint parts in an afternoon they're completely dry ready for sanding and polishing the next morning

Cheers mate I'm using cellulose paint mixed 1:1 with thinners then 2k clearcoat mixed 2:1 with hardner +10% thinners it's actually working really nicely getting a few bits in the final coat but they sand out no problem the wing above was after it was flatted and polished

Then we were all ready for paint went for 2k ford frozen white cost me £35 all in All finished and back together After all this I fitted some tein coilovers for just £50 anyways I've now had a change of plan with the car I want to have a turbo the standard 1nzfe in this car isn't up to much power so for a base it's not what I wanted so I'm planning a 4efte conversion and another respray this time in midnight purple which I'm doing at home in the back yard pics so far of the last week

Hi guys Well I've just embarked on this project really bought a little yaris t sport about a year and a half a go as my girlfriends first car but now she wanted something a little newer so I've gotten it to play with I bought the car for £400 with a broken engine lad who had it was running a bee-r Rev limiter needless to say a piston ended up exploding and putting 2 large holes in the block, so once I got it home I collected another engine for £100 and fitted it and it's been running great ever since So after the engine was fitted I was working in a mates unit and decided it was time for