jjullienn

Oups sorry for my previous post :S my dang smartphone posted that against my will haha...

Thanks a lot guys, those information are helping a lot ;)

I was looking on the internet for civic rad, and I found some with shroud included (link below). Do you think that can be a good option?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yonaka-Honda-Civic-Dual-Core-Aluminum-Performance-Race-Radiator-w-Fan-Shroud-/311398035135?fits=Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item4880c4eebf:g:238AAOSwMtxXs3H0&vxp=mtr

Also what do you think about the Tuning develpment radiator and slimline fan?

http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=502_520_589&products_id=289

Big thank for the help ;)

A

Thnks for the reply! What fan are you planning to use with that? do you have an idea on how to attach you radiator to the car body? Custom brackets?

Hi all ! Looking for a radiator for my ep71 with 4efte engine inside. Im currently using the ep71 radiator but cant stick a fan to it because of he lack of space. What have you guys used? I heard civic rad are a nice fit? Thanks !

Hi all ! Looking for a radiator for my ep71 with 4efte engine inside. Im currently using the ep71 radiator but cant stick a fan to it because of he lack of space. What have you guys used? I heard civic rad are a nice fit? Thanks !

Thanks for the help ! The car seems to work right so I'll leave it that way. I reconnected te W pin to the dashcluster but got no warning engine light (which is a good sign ).

Thanks Stu! So the W is directly linked to the same color wire coming from te dash cluster. Good to know, I think it was getting somehow a +12V since the resistor in the ECU was turning red...

Do you have an idea of the use of the relay? I probably have to reconnect it to the blue boxes I cut since it has the same colors. If I do so I will also connect it to the interior fuse box because there is a wire with the same color. So I have another question : Do I need anything from this fuse box to operate the engine and the Ecu? If not I am pretty sure this relay is not necessary either. Big thanks to you Stu for helping out!

I was just thinking on controlling them by sending the appropriate signal. If its a 0 to 12V signal I can do that using Arduino controler. I dont want to make it complicated, maybe just a two position set up. But i dont want to randomly test the servomotor and burn them :s. If someone know which kind of tension should apply to them and the result in terms of stiffning it would be super great !

Thanks Colin !

Actually I was asking about the signal received by the servomotor on top of the suspension, how do they get the information of turning in one direction or the other?

Hi all !

Everything is in the title ! Just go TEMS suspension for EP71 but the controller going with the suspension is missing...Do you guys know how to control them? How the servomotors on top of the suspension are controlled? Is it by a tension between 0 - 12 V ?really don't know...

Any help/information would be very very appreciated ! Thanks

Hi all !

My car is an ep71 swapped with a 4fte ep91 engine. Engine was working fine with the complete original ep91 4efte wiring.

This friday I wanted to get rid of all the unnecessary plugs, relay and other stuffs that are made for the interior side of the car and are not related to the engine.

To do so, I started cutting all the unconnected wires to simplify the wiring. But, I accidentally cut these small blue boxes thinking they were not connected to anything... but I unfortunatley realized later that they were connectors at that time the engine was unnable to start :sad:

To fix my mistake, I decided to look at every cut wire from those blue boxes and link them to every wire I can find with the same color. Once all the wires were connected the the engine finally started but a small smoke came out the ECU. Opening the ECU, I was able to see that some resistor connected to the pin 8 W "Warning light" was burning red. The 8 pin is linked with a Green White wire that is also connected to one of those blue boxes that I cut. So I assume I did something wrong when reinstalling those boxes.

Sorry for the very long introduction, but I needed some context, Here I go with the question:

- What the use of this pin "Warning light" is it the check engine light?

- Do I need it to run the engine fine?

- The "Warning light" wire coming out the ECU is Green White, does it means it has to be linked to this relay which has the exact same color? Do you guys know what this relay is made for?

Also, I am not planning to use the EP91 combination meter and I noticed that the ECU takes the "Speed Signal" information from a wire coming from the combination meter. Does the ECU need that signal to run the engine fine or can I remove the combination meter? What the use of the speed signal in the ECU?

Thanks guy for all your reply ! Help is greatly appreciated since I am in big big shit

no one?

Hi all !

Everything is in the tittle ! What do you think about those shocks for a replacement of my original ones ? Are they stiffer / softer ?

Link in bidjdm : https://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/c572580332 for more detail.

Thanks !

Hello !

I post here on the behalf of a friend. When we drive his ep81 starlet, some engine coolant is going to the expansion tank (approx 5 cm more in the expansion tank). During driving the coolant stays warm (the jauge stays in the middle position). Is it possible that it is due to a faulty radiator cap ?

Thanks !

Hello !

Thanks for all your replies ! I finally figured out why I couldn't stop the engine and it's really not because of greemlins haha I actually just inverted two wires when connecting the ep91 wires to the ep71 wires...The ep91 ignition barrel was giving the right connection to the right wires but the ep71 was giving a 12V to an ep91 wire which should have gotten 0V...

Actually it's pretty simple to make it right the first time: the ep71 ignition barrel mentions the use of each wire so do the ep91 barrel black plug. So you just have to connect the same wires together...pretty simple and easy

Concerning the two sensors I was mentionning in my previous post, I just removed them and the engine sounds all fine...I hope it was really related to the AC haha

Thanks again guys.

Julien.

Thanks guys ! Wish the gremlins could connect all these hoses in the right place ;)

At Morgey : Actually, the engine starts normally when I turn the barrel to the "start" position. Once the engine is turned on, I cannot stop it with the key. I even can remove the key while the engine is running.

Also, the engine I got came with a remote start controller (so fancy haha) that I got rid of. But when it was one the loom I guess the engine was capable of running without a key...that might explain this issue...

At EP70-PT: Do you have an idea where is that thread ? Could find it... Also, do you know what controls the engine stop ? Is there any relay ?

Also guys, can you tell if I can get rid of the two sensors I showed to you? From my internet search, they seems to be related to the A/C but I am not sure 100%.

Thanks to all for the good hand !

Thanks a lot mate !

I think 2 and 5 must be connected...can someone confirm? Is it ok to block 2 and leave 5 open ? Sorry asking again, just want to be very sure

So I can get rid of pipe number 6 and the valve connected to it ? and block the nozzle coming from the throttle body ?

Also I read on some thread I can get rid of those two hoses (pics below) and the valves they are connected to. Is that ok to just get rid of them ? What the use of them ? I heard they are for the AC but I once marked them as Vaccuum EGR Valve sensor...I'm really confused :S

Does anyone has an idea why I can't stop the engine just by turning the key back to ACC ?

Hello all !

After having owned a1986 EP71 for 3 years, I decided few month ago to instal a 4EFTE in it !

Thanks to the help of some very good threads in this forum (Taggy, Grant, Charlotte just to name of few) it wasn't to difficult to get the engine in and it even happen to start !! YAY!

But, there are still some pipes/wiring I'm not sure about...and here you guys come !

First of all, the engine will start without any difficulties but then it won't stop when I turn back the key to the ACC position...

If I want to stop the engine I must do these two things :

- Turn the key to the ACC (off) position

- Remove the negative pole of the battery

If I do either one of these two things it won't stop the engine. I do have to do both.

I'm pretty sure the issue is not coming from the ignition key. I linked the EP71 and ep 91 loom at the ignition key. I got rid of the EP91 ignition barrel and when I turn the key in the EP71 barrel, it gives exactly the same signal to the EP91 loom that the EP91 barrel used to do.

Another clue to that issue, is when I turn the key back to ACC, the engine sound is slightly different.

Beside that, I have a couple of question to reconnect the last wires and pipes

I think I got the engine with some mods already made cause :

- The turbo actuator is an HKS with only one nozzle connected to the turbo

- The blowoff vavle plastic nozzle looks broken but I don't know if I should really connect that nozzle to somewhere...

- The hi/low solenoid wasn't used since the it's electrical connector coming from the loom was blocked.

Here come the pics :

One last pipe:

And the turbo actuator with only one nozzle :

Sorry for the size of the pics...they are all viewable in a convenient size when cliking at them.

Thanks to all to your help !

Julien.

Hi! Mine was between 6 and 7 liter per 100 km depending on the use.