jimjom

right my V seems to be down on power. its a strange one as i cant pin point what the issue is and i dont know what things to check. the car was running a treat before the issues and was pulling very strongly.

*car is boosing what it should 0.8 bar with hks actuator

*there is no smoke what so ever coming from breathers or exhaust

*the engine seems to be running smoothly. no stange noises or rattles.

issues ive noticed.... little bit of oil around pcv (which i have now changed) and the breather whistling when i take it off.

it kinda feels like the engine is producing all the power it should and the revs are going up pretty quick and sounds very revvy( if that makes sense)..........but it feels like this power isnt going to the wheels and the car is pulling alot less than it used too. dont get me wrong it still feels quick but its not as quick as it was.

im thinking it may be drivetrain related, clutch or flywheel. but........

*theres no problem pulling off

*no problem gettting in gears

*no weird noises from there

it just feels like all the engines effort is not getting put on the road.

i just need a few suggestions on thinks to check. suggestions as to what components may need replacing that could be causing my problem.

if clutch mastor/ slave cylinders where gone how could i check and would these cause clutch slip if they was knackered?

this problem has seemed to come on kinda over night. was fine one day, next day the revs seemed to be flying up too fast and now the car is behaving as ive explained.

im getting really wound up with this as i dont know what to do. do i get a new uprated clutch, and change all other clutch related components, which may solve it. but on the other hand i will be spending hundreds of pound on something that may not even be the issue.

sorry for the essay. any suggestion of my next step. also would a vid help of the speed the revs are flying up in comparrison to speed?

it sound like the clutch has seen better days! one test you could do to check if your clutch is slipping is to have the car at its running temp (because they slip more when hot) then apply the hand brake, place in 5th gear and then try to pull away! If revs go up and you dont move then your clutch needs changing a.s.a.p before it goes on you and then u'll have no drive! your car should stall straight away if your clutch is any good!

Hey everyone, ive recently fitted a rolla inlet mani and im in need of a good air filter...

do you have any reccomendations on the best brand of filter and prices??

i have a universal induction kit from halfords atm but ive been told its no good (sh*t)

any help is v.much appreciated ;)

hi

i've got a blitz cone filter which cost about £160 but well worth the money tho!

Ello fellow UKSCsters

Righty ho, lets start. My brakes have been changed for a few good months now, had front brake disc's and pads changed, all brake hoses changed front and rear, fluid replaced too... right, all working jolly fine.

My friend and I were coming back from a Jap meet a few months ago, he drove an EP3 civic, for some strange reason, mine and his car, decided it didn't want to brake coming towards a roundabout.... like if u stepped on the pedal it kinda locked up when i haven't even pushed it hard enough for ABS or something to come on. But for some strange reason he kinda had the same problem too, but he has upgraded 8pot brakes.

Experienced it only a few minor times, anyone know why it does this or anyone experienced this before?? dangerous.

it sounds like you went over a wet patch or the road was slippy from a fuel spillage or loose debris

;) has made no difference

yeah sounds like the synco's worn on the outer edge, only way of fixing it stripping the box!!!

thanks guys 4 the help i've managed to sort it now!

the problem was the securing clip on the rod from the actuator to the wastegate and was stopping it from opening fully!

As i only ran it for a couple of sec's at 1.5bar it doesn't seem to have done any damage to the engine or the turbo thank god!!

Its good to know that there are people out there with the same car and are willing to help with any problems that may arise!!

best bet is an hks actuator mate. it can be adjusted to the boost you require then. check out tobys store toy tuning on here.

ok mate cheers

hi

i've just brought a 2nd hand rebuilt CT9B turbo and have fitted it to my ep82.

i have a full blitz nur spec system inc a de-cat pipe, a FCD, blitz front mounted intercooler, blitz air filter and running it on a standard turbo which boosted up to 1bar of boost!

now that i have fitted the CT9b turbo its running at over 1.5bar! which aint going to do my turbo or engine any good!!! The CT9b turbo that i recieved didn't come with an actuator so i put my orignal one onto the new turbo but i think that it maybe too short and holding the waste gate closed!

i was wondering if anyone knows if there is a different length in the actuator between the two turbos?

any help would be great thanks!!