KPJUK
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Posts posted by KPJUK
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Ah I was hoping/dreading that was the case. So with the bolt and little plate remove the bugger should pull out after some lube and swearing.
How safe is it for me to get an acetylene torch on it? Don't fancy cracking the casing or burnings the seals and oil up but I just don't know what this issue calls for!
Thanks for your help dude.
KP
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Hi guys,
My speedo stopped working recently - cable seems fine and the dials run up when I spin the cable up, so it appears the drive unit is buggered.
From the looks of it all I need to remove is a 10mm bolt and then pull the unit from the diff casing, however when I attempted this on my old gearbox is just shattered the drive unit housing. Are these supposed to just pull out after removing the bolt but they seize up, or is there something I have missed?
I have quite a rare 6-speed from a G6 Corolla so am keen not to damage the transmission or related components!
KP
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This is what I have currently:
KP
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Hi everyone,
I have a 1991 Corolla with a 1999 Corolla G6 4E-FE but the camshaft cover was botched for a turbo conversion which never happened (previous owner).
My engine bay is misting up nicely with oil and I have new seals for the camshaft cover but would rather fit a standard one with the proper PCV valve.
Does anyone have on laying around for reasonable money? Doesn't matter if its painted so long as its undamaged and hasn't been fiddled with in any other way.
I also need a PAS pump bracket with the correct tensioner, again mine has been botched and is preventing my from correctly tensioning the belt.
Cheers,
KP
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No it was a Blueprint ADL which I personally find matches Toyota parts. Replaced it with another ADL along with the thermostat and its golden. I do seem to have an oily smell since setting up the breather though! Balls.
What is the service interval for the pump?
KP
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Hi everyone,
I'm keen to get a few opinions on a recent scenario I have experienced.
Currently twiddling my thumbs until a new water pump arrives on Monday afternoon and then I can fit it and get back to Uni. But I am having a bit of a concerned moment at the minute regarding why it failed.
The pump is relatively new in terms of age but has covered a considerable mileage (15k+) and I have to be honest - some of them have been pretty hard miles. Ok, very hard miles.
The cooling system has always been filled with de-ionised water and antifreeze at a 30-70 mix, coolant to water. It is very clean in terms of debris and hasn't discoloured too badly.
Yesterday when I hooked up my oil breather system at long last, I was warming up the engine to ensure it operated correctly at all stages of idle (which is another issue I could do with help on). It took longer than I had hoped to warm up and given I knew it shouldn't take so long, I went to check under the bonnet.
Sure enough the water pump weep hole was dumping coolant at an alarming rate so I immediately keyed off the engine which was still barely up to temp.
With the pump off, I have inspected it carefully and as far as I can tell, it isn't corroded. The bearing feels fine. It makes no strange noises. The coolant is in good condition.
So what caused it to fail?
My main worry is that something else may be wrong with the cooling system that actually caused the pump failure. I cannot identify any leaks anywhere although last week I had one odd moment - the temperature gauge suddenly shot up, and I mean within a fraction of a second (I'm very paranoid and keep an eye on the gauge every couple seconds). Keyed off immediately and fired up after 30 seconds and the temperature was fine and I didn't have any issues. When I got home the coolant level was low and I topped up and it has reached and held temperature nicely under all driving conditions. But of course now the pump has failed.
As for the idle problem - the cold idle is very low and it steadily rises and settles for warm idle at approximately 1200-1350rpm (I have no tach for now so cannot confirm). I have no blink codes flashing up and the engine misfires very intermittently when accelerating hard from very very low speeds/throttle openings in 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. I suspect the Idle Control Valve. What do you guys think?
The engine is a 1999 4E-FE from a G6 Corolla (E11)
Sorry for the wall of text, but I do need a little guidance on this one. Thanks for any help!
KP
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Sure enough, I couldn't see the wood through the trees. After installing a new set of Spark Plugs and chucking some fuel system cleaner in the tank the misfire has disappeared. Runs spot on now!
KP
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Having reconnected the O2 sensor and checked its voltage, I can confirm that it is working between 0.1v and 0.9v which is as specified by Denso and Bosch - so I believe I am safe in assuming they both send the same signal and it shouldn't make a difference to the ECU which one I use.
Annoyingly it didn't solve anything however I may try resetting the ECU tomorrow with it connected and see if it responds better.
KP
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This one looks about right - according to the Denso catalogue the direct fit to the original downpipe is the DOX-0225 (1997-1999) and the universal sensor is DOX-0111 which is £35 not £80! I need the universal one anyway, can someone take a look at this and confirm I'm not talking bollox?
KP
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Ok thanks mate will do.
Yeah its the 4 wire heated sensor. I have a Bosch unit on there now but no clue if its sending the right signals. ]
KP
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Ah ok thanks for the advice, I was looking at this one but may rethink that:
The misfire is getting bad - anyone got a spare lambda sensor? I only have the one heated sensor and its Bosch not the genuine Denso so I think its giving duff readings. ECU hasn't whinged about it but it may be part of the issue.
KP
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There's no dizzy cap its a twin coil wasted spark ignition system
But thank you - we did test the leads just today!We tested the HT leads and coils for resistance and they are absolutely spot on. The Spark Plugs could do with replacing but wouldn't cause this issue.
What we did find using a Gunson Colour Tester is that the engine is running lean under full throttle = fuel supply issue. When we applied a positive pressure to the pressure regulator it appeared to ease the misfire, thus I will be fitting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to bring the pressure up to snuff. That should have it sorted.
Does anyone know of a decent kit for not much money that bolts straight on? I want to raise it to 2.8Bar if possible.
KP
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Hi guys,
After having much fun hooning time I am getting sick of an intermittent misfire (which is now getting worse and more regular) which is most noticeable pulling from low RPM in a high gear. It really sputters and craps out and backfires every now and then.
I have a CEL and after checking the code I have only got Code 42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor.
What sensor is this referring to exactly and could it have some effect on the engine management? It seemed to be fine all day today but after going out tonight it is as if the car is stopping the hooliganism. Sad times.
If I accelerate smoothly I don't seem to have a misfire. If I plant the throttle it can hesitate sometimes. When revving in neutral from idle it can be very grumbly.
Any ideas here? It will get me home for sure but I want to minimise damage to the engine if this is harming it in any way.
KP
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Thanks, I totally love the sound of it, it's properly savage
Made it home today - 286 miles, first of four trips. Not a single hitch with it bar the CV chucking grease but that's not going to stop me getting home
Runs well and rather economically considering there is no Lambda signal. Still misfires but it appears to be clearing as I go along with the whine from the camshaft gears.
KP
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haha I already got the itch to do it after that intake noise on the first run - I hear turbo - reminds me of the R32 GT-ST my dad had, just a smooth whisper as revs build. If only
KP
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Thank you very much guys - the wiring needs tidying up and I will be buying a catch can for the breathers when funds permit - the important part is it will get me home!
And videos as promised - it sounds utterly sexual IMO!
Drives well although it does misfire like a bitch sometimes. Need to look at that after I'm home safe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3yXk8Lrrd4&feature=youtu.be
I am totally in love with it!
KP
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I think I may finally be done! The oil leaks appear to have been fixed, the timing belt is done and the car is safe for the road. Today saw a few things completed:
*Timing Belt Fitted - with new Tensioner and Idler Pulleys
*Wiring Tidied up - The interior wiring was cabled tied and fully taped up to make it as neat as possible. Still needs a lot of work though.
*PAS System Fitted & Tested
*Fuse Box temporarily secured - zip ties again - what can I say? I'm a Motorsport Engineering student... we live by the ties and die by the ties.
*Air Filter Oiled.
*Pulse Damper fitted to MAP sensor
I took it out for a test run and the car has been totally transformed by the new powerplant. It starts every time with no issues and the power is very nicely delivered. I reset the ECU and received no fault codes although there is a misfire which I have pinned on the Lambda for now. It currently has a Bosch sensor where it might want a Denso unit as originally fitted. I'll be sorting that another time.
Everything else seems fine but I have to keep an eye out for oil leaks.
First run home is tomorrow.
Throttle connection MKII:
The MAP sensor was dishing out some dodgy signals so I pilfered a pulse damper from a mates MR2 he is breaking. It's basically a chamber filled with cotton which absorbs pulses in the vacuum tubing to prevent giving the MAP sensor duff pressure readings.
Custom Air Filter housing - quickly knocked up by the legendary Owain who also oiled it today for extra reliable Kilowatts!
Fresh Timing Belt and Pulleys installed:
Fingers crossed it stays reliable. I totally love the feel of this new motor and the sound is just brutal. Utterly awesome conversion!
KP
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Given the leaky sump that stuck around after I resealed it I took Friday to do it again and hopefully, do it right.I packed on a hell of a lot more sealant than I would otherwise hoped to, particularly where the arcs start at either end of the sump. Last time there was a clear void there so this needed to have sealant pack it out adequately. The timing end crankshaft oil seal was ok in the end it was simply the sump so that should also hopefully be the same deal for the gearbox side of the crankshaft. I am praying to the car gods that the crankshaft oil seal is ok - the gearbox end is and engine out job.We also heated up the shanked timing belt cover and bent it into shape to hopefully clear it from the belt and pulley. I have a timing belt kit arriving on Monday which should sort some of the whining noises from the timing end. Tomorrow I will be refitting the interior - will be fun to put up some before and afters of the birds nest I have to deal with! I will be cutting and resoldering the wires to make very neat factory looking looms over the summer, but to get me home they need to be shoved behind the dash and just held in place to get me home.Heavily sealed sump:
The first time round failed because there wasn't enough sealant on the arc edges but also because the sealant didn't really set properly. The instructions stated that it had to be assembled as soon as possible but seeing as that didn't work I left the sealant for an hour or so in order to let it go a little tacky. It's bolted up now so fingers crossed it's all ok when the belt goes on and the oil goes in!As for the timing belt, it's actually still nice and easy to access like the old engine:
I don't feel too far off getting this sorted now (disasters permitting).KP
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I wondered when you'd show up! I want it off the planet not just the Forum!
Cheers though, tackled the sump again today so we should have a decent seal now
Monday should see the timing belt done.
KP
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Too right - thank you mate.
Took some time to myself last night to make substantial tampon adjustments and will be buying a timing kit today and fitting it Monday. Thank you Idrees!
It seems the oil seal at the timing end is ok - I'm doing the sump again today but with much more liberal application of the sealant which should see me through.
I just want out of this now
KP
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I can say from this weeks experience, that if you have a 3rd generation 4E-FE from a Corolla G6 the ECU has a built in immobiliser that can not be bypassed. If you want this engine and ECU you will need the ECU, Immobiliser Computer and Key Transponder all from the same vehicle. The wiring to the door unlock switch and courtesy light switch are not needed.
Sorry to dig up an old thread but it may help a future viewer researching the issue.
KP
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PM sent
KP
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To continue my bad luck streak with my Corolla the Crankshaft Oil Seals have simultaneously ejected themselves from my engine. I can't seem to find anywhere to buy them singularly - does anyone know where I can get them?
I can of course call Toyota but time is a factor and I have seen on Threads here that they like to mix the crankshafts with different internal diameters for the seals - 75mm (FTE) and 80mm (FE) but just because my engine is an FE doesn't necessarily mean I have the standard crank.
It's a 1999 3rd Gen. engine from a Corolla G6.
Thanks for the help!
KP
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Annoyingly this engine is starting to become more trouble than its worth - both crankshaft oil seals are fucked hence some of the leaks. The sump is still leaking although nowhere near as badly.
Not going to lie, I am outright fed up with this shit now. It's just one thing after another.
Luckily it sounds immense, but it has also randomly developed a misfire and cuts power harshly sometimes. Just more BS I'm so not in the mood for with this.
KP
Removing Speedo Drive Unit
in Drivetrain & Transmission
Posted
Thought as much - didn't want to push my luck. Ok then, lube and swearing it is. Thank you mate.
KP