SplitfireIV

Never thought of that! However, it seems to have sorted itself out, she's going grand now! 

Recently did an engine swap on my EP91, original engine with 235K was billowing smoke so picked up a clean and dry replacement engine with 95K on the clock.  All in all it took approx 12 hours work outdoors, no pit, with a mate helping me when it got to the stage of lifting out the old engine and dropping in the new one.  Not an overly complicated job, I have done some work with a 4EFE before so was familiar with the connections and such, just takes some patience.

Hi!

Did an engine replacement last Friday on my standard '98 EP91, the original 4EFE had 235K miles on it and was horsing oil and clouds of smoke out of the exhaust made all the worst by the recent addition of Lucas oil stabiliser! That crap made the smoke ten times worse!! 

Anyway, a replacement engine was sought and I got one with 95K on the clock, nice dry engine!  Replaced it easily enough, but the engine was running quite fast on start up, so we put on the TB from the original engine which had her ticking over nicely then.

So, I brought her on a 50 mile round trip, not a bother until nearing the end of the journey; when taking off in first gear the car judders like f&^k!! like she's seriously struggling.  Taking off in 2nd on the flat or a slight incline is grand, she doesn't judder then, nor is the car losing power or struggling when going up hill in 4th or 5th so I'm ruling out the clutch.

Any ideas on what it could be?? 

Hi guys, if you could take a look at my vid and let me know what you think, cheers.

https://youtu.be/DmSrvcos2Mw

Well respect to you my friend! There reliable engines.

Not considered adding a turbocharger?

Pics under the bonnet plz ^!

Here y'ar...

Hi!

Sorry, I never concluded this saga!

As mentioned above I was cranking like mad with no oil pressure being built. Getting fed up and horribly annoyed at this stage facing the prospect of an engine tear down or hair pull out I decided I've take the oil filter off.....why, I cant remember, just what you do.....right?! Anyway, I was fighting with that and it wasnt playing ball either loosened a little, tightened a little but would budge (ok, I had one of those crappy metal strap yolks). So thought, SHAG IT!! I'm just gonna fire her up! So, turned the key and....

....oil light went out and oil was being fed up to the head!!! Running sweat as a nut once again.


So there you have it, you can snap a belt in a 4EFE at about 30mph and avoid damage being done! Just stick in a new belt (and tensioners if you so choose) and away you go!

I've a 4EFE in my 1971 Triumph Spitfire. Ok, theres more room to work and its rear wheel drive (4E mated to original Triumoh gearbox with over drive) but hey, anythings possible! ;)

Hi guys, I've picked up a Corolla rev counter for a project I'm working on. I want to hook this up to a Starlet 4EFE. I need, I believe, a signal from the dizzy (taken from the ecu? Green wire at the dizzy plug? or from diagnostic plug?) a live and neutral. However, the rear of the dial has 6 terminals. There is an LCD screen that I dont require, so I assume some of the terminals are for this, I just need the rev counter.

Anyone help me out as to what goes where? Thanks

Hi guys!

Was wondering if you could take a look at the pic below and help me out.

The image is a 4EFE mounted in my Triumph Spitfire project, pic is a number of months old, so it does look a bit tidier and neater now....promise!) Two things I've yet to sort though is the pipe marked with the red arrow on top of the rocker cover. Where should this go, or can I blank it off or put a filter on it?

Second, the green arrow is the vent coming from the fuel tank, now, in the Spitfire the tank is quite high (level with your back almost when seated!) so the vent has to be kept above that level. However, it does produce a strong petrol smell that eventually gets back into the cabin. Is there anywhere I could alternatively vent this off? ie into the inlet manifold/throttle body or such?

Thanks for any help!

P

Ok guys, stuck a new belt on this eve, turned it over by hand a few times and all sounded fine. Put a few bits on and turned her over a number of times on the ignition (no plugs in and efi fuse removed) and it sounded fine again but the oil light wasn't going out.

Stuck the fuse in, plugs etc and fired her up for a second or two, oil light still not going out and the engine sounded a bit clanky. Is it safe to assume I've done the oil pump in?

Has anyone got a diagram or know what the individual wiring going to the light stalk are on an EP91?

I want to swap the wires over to a simple column mounted stick that controls the indicators (3 wires) another that controls high beam/low beam (4 wires) and a three stage toggle switch that controls the side lights/main beam (off/on/on).

Any help appreciated!

Cheers guys! I've not had a chance to get back to it yet......stupid work getting in the way!

Consensus seems to be divided on whether the 4EFE is interference or non interference. I'll get back to ye when I stick a belt on.

Heres the car...

As the title says, I put my belt through the lower end of my front belt cover!! Engine is a 4efe.

The belt was ripped lenght ways for a few inches before the snap and I notice a bolt missing from the water pump mounting which I reckon came loose, ripped the belt lenght ways before coming loose, snapping the belt and shooting through the lower front plastic cover!!

I've got the rocker cover off, as well as the timing belt cover, there doesn't seem to be any damaged to the cams/buckets, everything turns as it should.

What's the procedure for a belt snap? I've got a new belt, can I stick it on and hope for the belt? (Following the correct methods of course) or can I expect internal damage? I've read conflicting reports on the 4efe, some say they are interference, others say non interference?!

Found my problem, a snapped timing belt protruding through the bottom of the plastic cover is not something you want to see and would be a major contribution to an engine not starting.

Thanks for the help and tips, think I better take this one over to the engine forum.

Hi guys,

My project, a 1971 Triumh Spitfire with a 4EFE engine transplant has decided to break down on me today (so much for replacing the original engine for Toyota reliability....).

Anyway, I was out driving today, all going well, top down, nice day etc, slowed down to take a roundabout and I heard a strange sound, dont know what it was, after which the engine died and I rolled to a halt.

The engine will crank over, the fuel pump whizzes up but there is no spark at the plugs. I shorted the diagnostics plug and got the codes 12 & 42 but I believe this due to the car being stationary. Checked all fuses, changed out the battery, still nothing, shorted the diagnostic plug again and the engine light blinks continuously fast now, no code sequence.

When cranking the engine the oil light doesnt go out either??

I'm hoping this isnt a distributor/coil issue as the dizzy, with the orientation of the engine (north/south) means the dizzy is too close to the bulkhead to remove without having to lift out the engine and gearbox!!

Please tell me its someting simple I've overlooked??

Quick one....

The inside of the intake manifold (behind the butterfly) seems to be coated in a layer of black oil. When you put your finger in there it comes out black! Engine was recently dropped into a Triumph Spitfire and as far as I'm aware all hoses, breathers etc are where they need to be. Is this normal or is it pulling oil unnecessarily from somewhere?

Ta'

Hi!

Wondering if someone could give me some pointers on this one. Done a lot of wiring work on a Starlet harness for my Starfire project (Starlet engine in a Triumph Spitfire). Had a lot of cutting, lenghtening and modifying of wires to do. Did them all one at a time and took my time, everything is where it needs to be. Upon first turning the key to check the electrics (didnt start the engine) the temp needle slowly spun around to its limit and stopped! Even with the key removed now it still sits at its extent, when you put the key in and start the car the needle might flicker a fraction but wont go back down to it 'normal' posistion on the guage!

Any ideas of how to get this back around?

No pics bud could get some if you want it's literally a thin metal plate with holes drilled for the bolts and tps trigger to sit in

Cheers. On further inspection it looks like the inners of the Keihin and Toyota TPS's are different, so I'll have to stick with the one thats currently on the bike carbs.

From what I've seen both are 5V and both are three pin, so, thats a good start! Simple case of changing over the wires then. Maybe someone could correct me on this, but the three wires going to my TOYOTA tps are as follows (and what I believe the pin out is):

Pin 1 - Yellow w/ red tracer = ECU IDL (Throttle closed sensor)

Pin 2 - Brown w/ white tracer = E2 (Ground)

Pin 3 - Light Green w/ red tracer = PSW (Variable posistion sensor)

My research on the Keihin TPS is that:

Pin A - Green wire = DC negative (ground)

Pin B - Red wire = DC signal output to the ECU

Pin C - Yellow wire = 5V DC positive

What I have come up with is the following match, if anyone could confirm, deny or help me on this one that'd be great!

Pin 1 + Pin B

Pin 2 + Pin A

Pin 3 + Pin C

Heres chris' thread buh.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/46823-remixd-5e-fhe-sportif-operation-refresh/page-15#entry1167238

The tps on the thriumph throttles was the same as a starlets just there was a lug on the side that stopped it fitting once that was filed/cut off it fit on directly. The shape of that plug is different so wouldnt clip in, also not sure what the voltage range would be on that but the 4efe ecu will need the correct range so might need to find out or retro fit the 4efe tps.

The TPS on both the Starlet and the Keihins are Denso's so I'm hoping it should be an easy swap, I've yet to take them off to have a good look though.

Hey bud I have Chris' old ITB's just changed the vac ports for better ones and I use my standard tps just with a little like adapter plate for it

Looks great! Got any pics of the tps mounting?

Hi guys,

Just wondering what the pinout on my ep91 tps is. Getting conflicting findings on it. As it stands the three wires that lead to the plug are: yellow with red tracer, brown with white tracer and light green with red tracer.

Would I be correct in assuming that the Yellow with red tracer is the throttle closed sensor, the brown with white tracer the ground and light green with red tracer is the variable posistion sensor. How does that sound?

Hoping to swap over the wires to a Keihin tps attached to a set of bike carbs.

Also, what voltage is the toyota tps?

Cheers.

Cheers for the help and info guys. Been looking for that build thread by Chris Green, cant seem to locate it, can anyone direct me to it?


I made a mistake in relation to the tb make, they are actually Keihin tb's, if that makes any difference, they are relatively simple, similar to the ones pictured below:




I've removed the fuel rail, injectors and accompanying wiring. Do I remove and try to refit the TPS from the standard Starlet manifold, or leave the Keihin one in place and modify the plug?

Hi guys!

As the title suggest its something that I plan on doing for my 'Starfire' project; that is a 4EFE engine in a '71 Triumph Spitfire. At the moment I have the stock inlet manifold and throttle body fitted but I'm hoping to swap this out for a set of Mikuni throttle bodies from a Honda CBR.

Has anyone ever done this? Anyone point me towards info sources? Is it a simple enough swap if say I leave the Toyota fuel rail and injectors in place (save having issues with ECU??). What should I be looking out for in regards to electrics, sensors, plugs etc...

Any help at all to get me started would be appreciated!

The project: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057197258&page=20

Looks to be about 40'ish mm? Might work! Cheers for that!! :-)

Bug697, I'm not sure, but it'd be no harm to measure if you do get a chance, cheers.

Daniel, yes, going to be used in line, connected to a 1971 SpiitsSpitfirearbox with overdrive. Of you check out the new members section I have a thread titled 'Triota Starfire', plenty of info.