boosted.rolla

Thanks guys! But do you usually hard-wire your fuel pump? I haven't seen a starlet (or at least on a 4e engine swap) did this before, so I'm quite curious that probably there's a wiring problem on my system currently that's why it melted aside from the pump can pull 20 amps. Is it possible that my fuel pressure changed when I upgraded my fuel pump causing it to pull higher amperage than normal?

okay guys I'm now confused. Hardwiring it directly to the battery and ignition makes the car unsafe specially when crashing but I thought thats how it was wired on stock except using a smaller gauge wire. Care to enligthen this one? How should I wire my pump to make it safe?

Got it. I'm assuming this also ensure a fuel cut right?

Yeah that's right on the pump, but which one on the ECU?

Got it. To be clear since I'm away from the car right now and can't remember what wire I used before, which wire I should use from the ECU? I believe I used something from Connector 2.

Yeah I did add a relay but I don't wanna add a kill switch. You mean the feed that comes from the ECU? Is it safe to use? Wouldn't I melt anything or do I need to upgrade this wire as well?

Hi all, I recently bought Aeromotive 340 fuel pump and it was running fine until my EFI relay melted. I was told I need to run a 10 gauge and hard wire it directly to the battery. So I ran eh wire directly from the battery to a relay then to the positive side of the pump then run ground wires as well. Now I'm not sure where to tap the switch from the relay to activate the pump. I was thinking to tap it on the ECU but where? Right now, I just tapped it on the ignition so when the key is on 'ON' position, fuel pump primes but I heard this is unsafe specially when crashing your car.